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To see if the car you want is in your budget, look up the values in NADA or Haggerty's and price one in the condition that you want yours to end up in.
Then add about 20 to 25% and that is what you will be spending in the long run. (if you do it yourself)
I saw the undercarriage pics and thought wow ok this car is toast but are folks buying cars in this state at this price?
Well is is presented as a certified survivor. I would think that to be a survivor, it would have to be considered roadworthy. It could be a reasonable candidate for a vehicle you could drive and restored, at least to a certain extent. The price is not bad for an otherwise complete car, especially if it is roadworthy.
"Gr Auto Gallery is pleased to offer this certified Survivor, 1964 Corvette Roadster. ... The Corvette offered here is exactly what Mr. Burroughs conceived when creating the Bloomington Gold Survivor Award and will remain a template for years to come."
Then again if someone believes this to be an original '64 water pump, anything else they say may be suspect...
Well is is presented as a certified survivor. I would think that to be a survivor, it would have to be considered roadworthy. It could be a reasonable candidate for a vehicle you could drive and restored, at least to a certain extent. The price is not bad for an otherwise complete car, especially if it is roadworthy.
"Gr Auto Gallery is pleased to offer this certified Survivor, 1964 Corvette Roadster. ... The Corvette offered here is exactly what Mr. Burroughs conceived when creating the Bloomington Gold Survivor Award and will remain a template for years to come."
Then again if someone believes this to be an original '64 water pump, anything else they say may be suspect...
Good luck, GUSTO
When I looked at the picture of that water pump on my small old iPhone, I didn't think it looked like a SBC water pump. I on here once I got off of work here in the hotel on travel to see it up close - obviously that is clearly not a SBC water pump that game off of a '64 Corvette.
So I agree with the corollary - what else is hinkey about that car? In one case the seller is clueless (so what else is wrong that the seller is clueless about?), or the seller is pushing fraudulent intent (so what else is fraudulent about that car?).
Generally there is NOTHING like the view out of a midyear, the feeling of a 3,100 lb 50 year old car with the secondaries open, the peace of sipping a beer in the garage admiring it, or the rewards of making some part of it better with your own two hands.
Even though I "like" many other cars.
Thats my advice.
Benton
Last edited by ChattanoogaJSB; 10-17-2017 at 05:30 PM.
I've been out of the vette world for a number of years. I'm looking to jump back in with an oldie. I'm thinking a C2 is where it is at.
I don't really know much about them, so I am looking to be educated. General questions like what is THE ONE to own? What should I be looking for spec wise? What are some of the things to watch out for and absolutely avoid?
Is there a primer somewhere that I should read up on?
Also prices on these things are absolutely all over the place and have no idea how they are "valued". For example, I came across a couple of original 64-65' un-restored, matching #'s, complete cars in running condition the low 30's. Is this typical?
Thanks in advance,
David
All good advice from forum members on the thread! The hunt for the car of your dreams is half the fun!!!
I have only one point to add...
On the 1963 and 1964 C2's, a common place for the frame to rot out is the frame rail located just in front of the rear tire extending forward to where where the rear of the door starts. Some unscrupulous shops will bondo over the holes in the frame.
When C2 frames were modified to accept side pipes 65 - 67 (slit in the frame for a special bolt), GM inadvertently created a way for the sand and dirt to escape. However, this is always a common spot to look for holes in the frame on any year C2. One way to detect repair with bondo is to use a small magnet.
You're in the San Diego area. A great guy (honest to a fault) is John from GM Downunder north of you in Costa Mesa. If you have the time, give him a call. Make the drive to his place. He'll take you for test drives and give you the truth about the C1's and C2's and what to look for. No pressure, and always has some beautiful examples on hand. When you're ready to make a decision, even if it's not one of his cars for sale, he's an NCRS judge and will do an inspection for you for a nominal fee. John has an excellent reputation with both buyers and sellers.
Mention my name if you call so he'll know how you found out about him. I just bought my yellow '67 through John a month or so ago him and it came out a collection in the San Diego area.
I have Noland's C1 and C2 Restoration books and refer to them quite often. But as a person away for a while reading the part numbers and looking at factory photos and descriptions in Noland's books will only give you a headache. You need help from an expert to avoid the long list of "gotcha's" on these cars.
When I looked at the picture of that water pump on my small old iPhone, I didn't think it looked like a SBC water pump. I on here once I got off of work here in the hotel on travel to see it up close - obviously that is clearly not a SBC water pump that game off of a '64 Corvette.
So I agree with the corollary - what else is hinkey about that car? In one case the seller is clueless (so what else is wrong that the seller is clueless about?), or the seller is pushing fraudulent intent (so what else is fraudulent about that car?).
perhaps original to them = came with the car as they got it. But who knows
All good advice from forum members on the thread! The hunt for the car of your dreams is half the fun!!!
I have only one point to add...
On the 1963 and 1964 C2's, a common place for the frame to rot out is the frame rail located just in front of the rear tire extending forward to where where the rear of the door starts. Some unscrupulous shops will bondo over the holes in the frame.
When C2 frames were modified to accept side pipes 65 - 67 (slit in the frame for a special bolt), GM inadvertently created a way for the sand and dirt to escape. However, this is always a common spot to look for holes in the frame on any year C2. One way to detect repair with bondo is to use a small magnet.
Good luck with the hunt!
These are the kind of little nuggets I'm seeking... need to compile these
These are the kind of little nuggets I'm seeking... need to compile these
compiling all of these would fill multiple 500 page volumes, as you'll find out. So many details and nuances.
Start with the AIM, add Colvin's "Corvette by the Numbers" book, the NCRS judging guides for each year, and you're at 2000 pages, and even that does not capture every detail.
Last edited by Easy Rhino; 10-18-2017 at 01:27 PM.
Reason: Pain medication
10-17-2017, 04:29 PM
