alexandervdr

I have some strange noise coming out tof the throw out bearing area when starting from cold. Disappears after 1/2 mile or so. Is there a way I can inspect the bearing area without taking out everything? Seems unscrewing the bell housing dust shield is feasible (eventually after taking out the starter motor), but I may be wrong. Ideas?

R66

If this is on your 64 and it has an aluminum bell housing, there is little chance of seeing the TO bearing without an inspection camera. Maybe you can see it thru the clutch fork slot if you can remove the boot and use a mirror.

Normally, the clutch fork should be adjusted to hold the TO bearing back off of the pressure plate when the clutch is engaged, so it should not be touching the PP for 1/2 mile or so. Have you tried adjusting the clutch to get 1 to 1-1/2" of free play? There was a tread on clutch adjustment here recently.

DansYellow66

Alexander - you can remove the dust shield easily but you won't be able to tell anything about the condition of the TO bearing. I assume the noise is only when the clutch is in (pedal depressed)? It shouldn't be making any noise when the clutch is released as it's just sitting there on the transmission bearing retainer and not turning.

If it makes any noise with the clutch released it might be your pilot bushing (or did you use a bearing?) or possibly there's no free play in your clutch adjustment and the TO bearing is riding on the clutch fingers and spinning.

I would drive it a while and see if the noise gets worse or maybe it will work it's way out. I would check that you have some free play at the top of the pedal. If it continues to make noise or gets worse the transmission will have to come out since you can't really do anything except replace them.

alexandervdr

Yes, the noise is when I depress the clutch when I drive off. With adjusting the clutch, do you mean making sure there is some pedal free play before the bearing touches the plate. (to be adjusted on the top end of the Z-bar)?
The pilot bearing is new and bronze. I did center the gearbox to the bearing.

DansYellow66

Dan

MikeM

Why don't you take a pill and relax. You seem to be eaten up with the "fizidities"

When it falls out in the driveway, you'll know you have a problem.

GTOguy

If it's squealing when you push in the clutch pedal, it's most likely the T/O bearing. The proper way to check one is to remove it, and rotate it while holding it in your hand, checking for roughness and play. No 'magic bullet' fixes peering through an inspection hole, I'm afraid.....

alexandervdr

I wished I could, taking out the tranny (Keissler RS400) is quite an undertaking

DansYellow66

Ohh - forgot about that. Another reason to live with it for a little while and see what happens.

I've have a theory I've never had the bad fortune to explore - which is if a transmission can simply be moved far enough to the rear without removing completely, to allow access to replace the TO bearing. I envisioned replacing the transmission bolts with 4 - long pieces of all-thread, support the engine, pull driveshaft, shifter, & mount and slide the transmission on the all-thread as far to the rear as possible. The unknown is can the transmission be slid far enough to the rear to get the pilot shaft out of the bearing and to be able to remove & replace it. It seems like it should work but unsure. I can slide mine far enough back to get the input within an inch of clearing the bell housing - and then I have to drop the rear of the engine. But that would seem enough to get to the TO bearing. Getting the transmission down and back up in place is the worst part of doing transmission work for me.

alexandervdr

so I did go in there, took out the starter motor, and through the opening in the dust shield I could go in with an endoscope. What I did see is that the fork is still in correctly (spring clips) and that the movement of the bearing is smooth. Can not check if it is slipping on the fingers with clutch out, but I assume it does not cause I only get the noise when I start pushing in the pedal.

So I am left with the option that the ball bearing inside is shot (although it's a new throw out, done 3000-4000 miles or so). Or something else? Still bizar that the noise goes away within a couple of hundreds yards of driving.

DansYellow66

It's probably the ball bearing/race assembly. Pretty hard to trouble shoot something in it's early, intermittent stages like that. You probably wouldn't even notice any roughness in turning it by hand at this stage - only later.

Jackfit

Yes, turn on the stereo, open the windows and drive the car for a year....

Jack

Avispa

Yes, a Muncie 4-spd trans (not sure about the RS400) can be moved far enough out of the way without being removed to be able to replace the TO bearing. Using all thread will not work, the trans has to be rotated on its side to shove it as far back out of the bell housing as possible and then allowed to drop in the front. If the back of the engine is supported at about its regular elevation, which it should be during pulling the trans out of the clutch, the tip of the trans main drive gear (the pilot shaft) will just hang up on the bottom of the opening in the back of the bellhousing. You'll see this in the CSM procedure for removing the trans completely - the only further step for complete trans removal is to drop the back of the engine until the pilot shaft clears the opening in the bellhousing. With the pilot shaft resting on the bellhousing opening, the TO bearing is completely accessible and can be replaced.

GEM '62

Soon after starting a trip, this spring, I started getting exactly what you describe. Doesn't do it 100% of the time but when it does it is in the morning when it is cold or after sitting for 5 or 6 hours. I hear it when letting the clutch out, a fairly good growl. I have driven it this way for the entire trip, around 25,000 miles, and it hasn't gotten any worse, or better. I will probably address it this winter. As others have said, when it's bad enough to address, you will know it. If you are just driving local, there is not much down side to waiting to see what happens.

alexandervdr

Good idea While I am waiting for that to happen, I can already get the spare in. Is there any better or less good brand or type for throw out bearings?
The one I got is a regular one from ZIP if IIRC.

DansYellow66

It's hard to tell the quality of one versus another. I last used a McLeod TO bearing as I generally like their products. It's also a bit pricey. But is it better - I don't know? I would just stay away from the plastic ones.

alexandervdr

Hi Dan,

any reference at hand to the specific McLeod TO used?

DansYellow66

I will check when I get home. I believe I ordered it from Summit.

adurso19@yahoo.com

I drove my 1960 for years with an occasional growl when I depressed the clutch. I had the bearing replaced twice and kept having the same problem.I pulled the tranny last year and discovered that the shop put the bearing in wrong. Instead of the tabs of the fork being put into the bearing groove, the tabs were outside the bearing groove. This made the bearing push the clutch arms on an angle. It's worth checking if you pull the bearing. PS. I heard they make a new bearing that you can't put in wrong. Wish they had them years ago!

DansYellow66

Alex - here is what I purchased for my TO bearing.

https://www.summitracing.com/search?...Mcleod%2016010

I'm sure there are other good TO Bearing options out there but I've had good luck with McLeod products.