Dual Circuit master on 64 question
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Dual Circuit master on 64 question
I am changing from the 64 single circuit master and need some clarification on adapting a dual circuit master cylinder on a 64. I have power brakes. Do I want a master with dual bleeder valves or without bleeder valves? I plan on retaining the drum brakes.
I plan on buying the 1/4 front to rear lines for 66 and the front and rear distribution blocks for 65-66. NAPA lists 5 master cylinders but only one with dual bleeder valves bleeder valves. The one listed with bleeder valves has a bore of 1 1/8". I know I need a master with a bore of 1 inch.
I plan on buying the 1/4 front to rear lines for 66 and the front and rear distribution blocks for 65-66. NAPA lists 5 master cylinders but only one with dual bleeder valves bleeder valves. The one listed with bleeder valves has a bore of 1 1/8". I know I need a master with a bore of 1 inch.
#2
Race Director
I don't know that there is any real need to use a master cylinder with bleeders. Chevrolet used MC's with bleeders in some years, and didn't in others.
Personally, I would use a 67 "509" casting, "DC" stamp, 1" bore master cylinder, or the equivalent generic replacement. This master cylinder has bleeders and was used on all 67's (except J-56). The 67 MC bolts right up to your booster.
You might want to look into a complete dual reservoir conversion kit. These kits are available from most of the Corvette vendors for about $300, and include everything you need to do the conversion properly. The conversion kits are also available with a 2 piece front to rear line, eliminating the need to lift the body.
Personally, I would use a 67 "509" casting, "DC" stamp, 1" bore master cylinder, or the equivalent generic replacement. This master cylinder has bleeders and was used on all 67's (except J-56). The 67 MC bolts right up to your booster.
You might want to look into a complete dual reservoir conversion kit. These kits are available from most of the Corvette vendors for about $300, and include everything you need to do the conversion properly. The conversion kits are also available with a 2 piece front to rear line, eliminating the need to lift the body.
The following users liked this post:
Vitaminmopar (10-21-2017)
#3
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
I don't know that there is any real need to use a master cylinder with bleeders. Chevrolet used MC's with bleeders in some years, and didn't in others.
Personally, I would use a 67 "509" casting, "DC" stamp, 1" bore master cylinder, or the equivalent generic replacement. This master cylinder has bleeders and was used on all 67's (except J-56). The 67 MC bolts right up to your booster.
You might want to look into a complete dual reservoir conversion kit. These kits are available from most of the Corvette vendors for about $300, and include everything you need to do the conversion properly. The conversion kits are also available with a 2 piece front to rear line, eliminating the need to lift the body.
Personally, I would use a 67 "509" casting, "DC" stamp, 1" bore master cylinder, or the equivalent generic replacement. This master cylinder has bleeders and was used on all 67's (except J-56). The 67 MC bolts right up to your booster.
You might want to look into a complete dual reservoir conversion kit. These kits are available from most of the Corvette vendors for about $300, and include everything you need to do the conversion properly. The conversion kits are also available with a 2 piece front to rear line, eliminating the need to lift the body.
#4
Race Director
AS it seems that this is been figured out....a master cylinder with or without bleeders does not matter. The effectiveness of the master cylinder is still the same...if the system is correctly and properly bled. AND IF the master cylinder does have bleeders on it..I bleed them also.
For what this may be worth.
I HATE creepers. I just do not own one or never will use one. When I have to get under a car. I use a thick piece of cardboard and than I also save the new style wrap that is used when urethane bumpers and parts are being shipped. It is that 1/4" thick foam with a plastic coating on it. I put that under the car and I can slide under it and get out from under it easily and IF it is winter time and cold as heck..I do not get cold due to the floor is trying to suck the heat out of me. And that the packing material having a plastic coating....if a liquid gets on it...I can simply wipe it off and keep working.
DUB
For what this may be worth.
I HATE creepers. I just do not own one or never will use one. When I have to get under a car. I use a thick piece of cardboard and than I also save the new style wrap that is used when urethane bumpers and parts are being shipped. It is that 1/4" thick foam with a plastic coating on it. I put that under the car and I can slide under it and get out from under it easily and IF it is winter time and cold as heck..I do not get cold due to the floor is trying to suck the heat out of me. And that the packing material having a plastic coating....if a liquid gets on it...I can simply wipe it off and keep working.
DUB
The following users liked this post:
Oaker57 (10-23-2017)
#5
Race Director
I HATE creepers. I just do not own one or never will use one. When I have to get under a car. I use a thick piece of cardboard and than I also save the new style wrap that is used when urethane bumpers and parts are being shipped. It is that 1/4" thick foam with a plastic coating on it. I put that under the car and I can slide under it and get out from under it easily and IF it is winter time and cold as heck..I do not get cold due to the floor is trying to suck the heat out of me. And that the packing material having a plastic coating....if a liquid gets on it...I can simply wipe it off and keep working.
DUB
DUB
I have two ground pads, that I use all the time at the shop, and the race track. They're light weight, so they're easy to move around, at 6 foot long and 2 foot wide, they're big enough to provide a comfortable work area, and because they're closed cell, they don't absorb liquids and are quite durable. At less than $20 each, they're also a lot cheaper than a creeper. The pads a particularly nice at the race track, where we're usually working on black top, which is a lot rougher to lay or kneel on, than concrete. I've been using a pad this weekend, at NJ Motorsports Park, while crewing on a 65 Corvette vintage racer.
#6
Team Owner
AS it seems that this is been figured out....a master cylinder with or without bleeders does not matter. The effectiveness of the master cylinder is still the same...if the system is correctly and properly bled. AND IF the master cylinder does have bleeders on it..I bleed them also.
For what this may be worth.
I HATE creepers. I just do not own one or never will use one. When I have to get under a car. I use a thick piece of cardboard and than I also save the new style wrap that is used when urethane bumpers and parts are being shipped. It is that 1/4" thick foam with a plastic coating on it. I put that under the car and I can slide under it and get out from under it easily and IF it is winter time and cold as heck..I do not get cold due to the floor is trying to suck the heat out of me. And that the packing material having a plastic coating....if a liquid gets on it...I can simply wipe it off and keep working.
DUB
For what this may be worth.
I HATE creepers. I just do not own one or never will use one. When I have to get under a car. I use a thick piece of cardboard and than I also save the new style wrap that is used when urethane bumpers and parts are being shipped. It is that 1/4" thick foam with a plastic coating on it. I put that under the car and I can slide under it and get out from under it easily and IF it is winter time and cold as heck..I do not get cold due to the floor is trying to suck the heat out of me. And that the packing material having a plastic coating....if a liquid gets on it...I can simply wipe it off and keep working.
DUB