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Dual Circuit master on 64 question

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Old 10-19-2017, 11:55 PM
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Vitaminmopar
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Default Dual Circuit master on 64 question

I am changing from the 64 single circuit master and need some clarification on adapting a dual circuit master cylinder on a 64. I have power brakes. Do I want a master with dual bleeder valves or without bleeder valves? I plan on retaining the drum brakes.

I plan on buying the 1/4 front to rear lines for 66 and the front and rear distribution blocks for 65-66. NAPA lists 5 master cylinders but only one with dual bleeder valves bleeder valves. The one listed with bleeder valves has a bore of 1 1/8". I know I need a master with a bore of 1 inch.
Old 10-20-2017, 07:32 AM
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gbvette62
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I don't know that there is any real need to use a master cylinder with bleeders. Chevrolet used MC's with bleeders in some years, and didn't in others.

Personally, I would use a 67 "509" casting, "DC" stamp, 1" bore master cylinder, or the equivalent generic replacement. This master cylinder has bleeders and was used on all 67's (except J-56). The 67 MC bolts right up to your booster.

You might want to look into a complete dual reservoir conversion kit. These kits are available from most of the Corvette vendors for about $300, and include everything you need to do the conversion properly. The conversion kits are also available with a 2 piece front to rear line, eliminating the need to lift the body.
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Old 10-21-2017, 01:16 PM
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Originally Posted by gbvette62
I don't know that there is any real need to use a master cylinder with bleeders. Chevrolet used MC's with bleeders in some years, and didn't in others.

Personally, I would use a 67 "509" casting, "DC" stamp, 1" bore master cylinder, or the equivalent generic replacement. This master cylinder has bleeders and was used on all 67's (except J-56). The 67 MC bolts right up to your booster.

You might want to look into a complete dual reservoir conversion kit. These kits are available from most of the Corvette vendors for about $300, and include everything you need to do the conversion properly. The conversion kits are also available with a 2 piece front to rear line, eliminating the need to lift the body.
Thanks for the input GBVette. I did not think there would be an issue using a MC without bleeders. I'm a little gun shy having been bitten in the past with assumptions so was thinking someone with hindsight could enlighten me. I know how to bench bleed the master so that task is covered. My 64 is a project I bought from someone else. The body is currently off and the project came with a new booster along with a new 64 master and 3/16 stainless lines. While the body is off the least expensive route is to just replace the front to rear line, and the line blocks and source a 1" bore master. I may go with disks latter as I have the parts but will keep the drums for now as everything is restored. I hope to reunite the body and chassis by mid November. I hate laying on cold concrete, or a cold anything.
Old 10-21-2017, 06:20 PM
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AS it seems that this is been figured out....a master cylinder with or without bleeders does not matter. The effectiveness of the master cylinder is still the same...if the system is correctly and properly bled. AND IF the master cylinder does have bleeders on it..I bleed them also.

For what this may be worth.

I HATE creepers. I just do not own one or never will use one. When I have to get under a car. I use a thick piece of cardboard and than I also save the new style wrap that is used when urethane bumpers and parts are being shipped. It is that 1/4" thick foam with a plastic coating on it. I put that under the car and I can slide under it and get out from under it easily and IF it is winter time and cold as heck..I do not get cold due to the floor is trying to suck the heat out of me. And that the packing material having a plastic coating....if a liquid gets on it...I can simply wipe it off and keep working.

DUB
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Old 10-22-2017, 07:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Vitaminmopar
I hate laying on cold concrete, or a cold anything.
Originally Posted by DUB
I HATE creepers. I just do not own one or never will use one. When I have to get under a car. I use a thick piece of cardboard and than I also save the new style wrap that is used when urethane bumpers and parts are being shipped. It is that 1/4" thick foam with a plastic coating on it. I put that under the car and I can slide under it and get out from under it easily and IF it is winter time and cold as heck..I do not get cold due to the floor is trying to suck the heat out of me. And that the packing material having a plastic coating....if a liquid gets on it...I can simply wipe it off and keep working.

DUB
When I was younger (okay, a lot younger ) I enjoyed back packing. To sleep on, we used closed cell, ground pads. Ground pads are half inch thick, light weight foam pads, that roll up easily, but when rolled out under a sleeping bag, offer a sufficient amount of comfort and insulation, between the bag and the ground.

I have two ground pads, that I use all the time at the shop, and the race track. They're light weight, so they're easy to move around, at 6 foot long and 2 foot wide, they're big enough to provide a comfortable work area, and because they're closed cell, they don't absorb liquids and are quite durable. At less than $20 each, they're also a lot cheaper than a creeper. The pads a particularly nice at the race track, where we're usually working on black top, which is a lot rougher to lay or kneel on, than concrete. I've been using a pad this weekend, at NJ Motorsports Park, while crewing on a 65 Corvette vintage racer.
Old 10-22-2017, 07:51 AM
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Originally Posted by DUB
AS it seems that this is been figured out....a master cylinder with or without bleeders does not matter. The effectiveness of the master cylinder is still the same...if the system is correctly and properly bled. AND IF the master cylinder does have bleeders on it..I bleed them also.

For what this may be worth.

I HATE creepers. I just do not own one or never will use one. When I have to get under a car. I use a thick piece of cardboard and than I also save the new style wrap that is used when urethane bumpers and parts are being shipped. It is that 1/4" thick foam with a plastic coating on it. I put that under the car and I can slide under it and get out from under it easily and IF it is winter time and cold as heck..I do not get cold due to the floor is trying to suck the heat out of me. And that the packing material having a plastic coating....if a liquid gets on it...I can simply wipe it off and keep working.

DUB
I’m with you. I have a nice creeper but it seems to jam up easily rolling across the smallest things. The small wheels can also grab “meat” like under your upper arm when rolling about. Hurts like hell. Damn thing has been in the attic since I got my lift.

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