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2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared))
2019 C1 of Year Finalist (track prepared)
I'm with Gerald on the VIN plate. My car was made not long after yours. Here's my VIN plate:
See if you can get a picture of the pad on the block in front of the right head. There should be a stamp on it that starts with an F. And check the casting number on the left rear of the block. It should end with 548.
I'm with Gerald on the VIN plate. My car was made not long after yours. Here's my VIN plate:
See if you can get a picture of the pad on the block in front of the right head. There should be a stamp on it that starts with an F. And check the casting number on the left rear of the block. It should end with 548.
The casting number and the casting date are on the rear flange of the engine block where the bell housing bolts up. The casting number is on the driver's (left) side and the date is on the passenger (right) side. You should be able to see them looking from the top.
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared))
2019 C1 of Year Finalist (track prepared)
You'll have to remove the side ignition shielding to be able to see it. Then you'll see the large casting number. Next check the casting date on the rear right side of the block. Again, with the ignition shielding removed you should be able to see it between the road draft tube and the back of the right head.
I like your pad stamp, but I don't get the rectangular shape around it. That makes it suspect to me, but I'm no expert. Your car was built on or about March 18 and mine was built on or about March 25. Yet your EL engine was assembled three days after mine was assembled on March 4.
Seeing how 1957s do not have a VIN derivative on the block, there is no number for the VIN tag to “match.” So, I don’t know what your question is asking.
Are you asking if the numbers shown could possibly be correct?
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (track prepared))
2019 C1 of Year Finalist (track prepared)
My VIN plate and FI engine are original. I've seen a lot of '57 VIN plates, though I'm no NCRS judge. The OP's VIN plate appears to be a reproduction. I would say the information is still insufficient on the engine and FI.
OP, some people say that solid lifter FI Corvettes in our VIN range should still have 4360 units. That theory is in question, though. If you read Ken Kayser's book you'll see that the March-April production period was a time of transition, and it seems possible that your 4520 could be original. They were primarily for 250hp cars, but some 283hp use has been noted.
Seeing how 1957s do not have a VIN derivative on the block, there is no number for the VIN tag to “match.” So, I don’t know what your question is asking.
Are you asking if the numbers shown could possibly be correct?
Yes could this be a stock car. It's been a good car for me but I'd like to make it a better driver but did want to have a shop take apart if it's all there
matching numbers etc.
sounds like at least the block is real and maybe the FI
My VIN plate and FI engine are original. I've seen a lot of '57 VIN plates, though I'm no NCRS judge. The OP's VIN plate appears to be a reproduction. I would say the information is still insufficient on the engine and FI.
OP, some people say that solid lifter FI Corvettes in our VIN range should still have 4360 units. That theory is in question, though. If you read Ken Kayser's book you'll see that the March-April production period was a time of transition, and it seems possible that your 4520 could be original. They were primarily for 250hp cars, but some 283hp use has been noted.
Do you have any ownership history on this car?
All I know is I bought it in Detroit from getrag gear of North America in 2006
since it's not the original block for this car. I'd like to change the transmission from a 3 speed to something better. I'd like to know what I should change it to and where in the seattle area I should take it.
10-20-2017, 05:59 PM
