Alignment shims Won't stay in
10-31-2017, 01:44 PM
#1
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
Alignment shims Won't stay in
Having trouble keeping my alignment shims in the front of my upper a arms on my 66 no matter how much I tighten. It has been modified with the Vette Brake transverse leaf suspension.
I just have to hammer them back down in there from time to time and luckily I have not lost any yet.they are set on an angle which allows them to eventually slide up over time. Before I get out the epoxy glue, I was wondering if there was another fix..(besides washers)
Thanks
I just have to hammer them back down in there from time to time and luckily I have not lost any yet.they are set on an angle which allows them to eventually slide up over time. Before I get out the epoxy glue, I was wondering if there was another fix..(besides washers)
Thanks
10-31-2017, 02:47 PM
#2
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On my vintage racer, I drilled and safety wired the alignment shims in place. I did this to prevent the exact problem you are having. You might consider doing similarly.
Jim
Jim
10-31-2017, 03:16 PM
#3
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I would think something is moving that is not supposed to move. Do you have the correct interference locking nuts?
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jerry gollnick (11-01-2017)
10-31-2017, 04:23 PM
#4
Burning Brakes
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The nut is not moving..I have it marked.
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Brut (11-01-2017)
10-31-2017, 05:23 PM
#5
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frame flex??? any rust or cracks in the front cross member
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10-31-2017, 05:28 PM
#6
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Once I got mine set right...I pulled them out and reversed them so the shim was captured in the closed end of the hole. Pain to do but their still in there!
JIM
OK...edit....I was thinking of REAR shims....now I re-read and actually paid attention this time. They "should" stay just fine...but if it's just not working you can use washers of same thickness.
JIM
JIM
OK...edit....I was thinking of REAR shims....now I re-read and actually paid attention this time. They "should" stay just fine...but if it's just not working you can use washers of same thickness.
JIM
Last edited by 427Hotrod; 10-31-2017 at 08:52 PM.
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Tcheairs38655 (10-31-2017)
10-31-2017, 07:56 PM
#7
Burning Brakes
Thread Starter
no rust or cracks, but could be frame flex. It has a pretty stiff VBP sport suspension system. I may try putting them in sideways so they cant "ride up" and loosen. It's hard for one person (namely me) to get to the bolt head underneath and nut to loosen and tighten
Last edited by Tcheairs38655; 10-31-2017 at 07:57 PM.
10-31-2017, 08:03 PM
#8
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the front upper A arm has a splined stud that goes in the frame. like a wheel stud
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GTOguy (11-01-2017)
11-01-2017, 12:56 PM
#10
Burning Brakes
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Could be that the splined stud is worn out. Guess it would be worth a try changing it..Would that stud be available from one of the parts houses?
11-01-2017, 01:14 PM
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Any local parts store would be where I would try first
11-01-2017, 03:45 PM
#13
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The studs get rounded off due to people trying to turn them in their splined holes. In almost every case I've seen (and I've seen quite a few over the years) the holes in the frame are too damaged and wallowed out to simply have new studs fix the problem. Usually, it'll need oversize studs or bolts that can be held with a socket from the frame side when the nut is tightened.
11-01-2017, 07:02 PM
#14
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I searched extensively for the "oversize studs" and could not find them. They don't really exist. I was able to get at the head of the bolts with a flex head socket.
11-01-2017, 07:15 PM
#15
Just about 5 months ago I had 2 of those bolts that were turning in the hole. I coated the splined end with red loctite and tapped them into the holes and let the loctite harden for a half hour. They never turned again. After the alignment was done I asked the mechanic if he had a problem with them and he said not at all. Worth a try, only I suggest 4 new bolts and the loctite for a little more insurance.
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Tcheairs38655 (11-02-2017)
11-02-2017, 06:24 PM
#16
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For what this is worth.
Knowing that many people may not do this...but this is what I do.
1.) Use a 5/8" universal socket and extension that can go up and hold the head of the splined bolt and tighten it...and this is IF the customer does not want to correctly fix it.
2.) Remove the upper control arm and bolts and weld in the hole and re-drill it with the appropriate drill bit so the splines grab tightly. Doing one hole at a time. I know this may seem extreme to many of you..but I have had to cut off and replace the upper control arm mount perch on the frame many times due to being bent from accidents...and when I get them in...there are no holes for the bolts to go...so I have to drill them out anyway....so that is why I do not get overly paranoid when I do this repair.
DUB
Knowing that many people may not do this...but this is what I do.
1.) Use a 5/8" universal socket and extension that can go up and hold the head of the splined bolt and tighten it...and this is IF the customer does not want to correctly fix it.
2.) Remove the upper control arm and bolts and weld in the hole and re-drill it with the appropriate drill bit so the splines grab tightly. Doing one hole at a time. I know this may seem extreme to many of you..but I have had to cut off and replace the upper control arm mount perch on the frame many times due to being bent from accidents...and when I get them in...there are no holes for the bolts to go...so I have to drill them out anyway....so that is why I do not get overly paranoid when I do this repair.
DUB
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Tcheairs38655 (11-03-2017)