slyguy

Yes, I don't have the exact #'s now but from what I recall the variance in the two sides begins just aft of the wheel wheels so the diff at the wheel well lip (Top) is minimal but grows as we move toward the from of the car where at it's max is about 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 inches at the headlight bezels.

cbernhardt

Rather than trying to use my measurements directly an easier method would be to lay out the profile on a long piece of cardboard and make a template to fit right on top of your fender. Just a thought.
Charles

slyguy

I had thought about something like that but until yesterday (see Pilot Dan's measurements) I knew there was a difference and even knew the approx profile of that difference - just didn't know which one was correct. As I said to Pilot Dan, it appears that the driver side is correct and that the flaw is on the passenger side and begins just aft of the wheel well and 'grows' (or rises)about 1 1/4" to the very front at the headlight bezel. Now I can concentrate my efforts on that area and try to figure out what's going on with the body - as all the frame measurements are within limits. Likely getting under the inner fender to inspect the glass will be helpful. I also suspect improper mount on the right(driver) side of the rad (though clearances in that area seem to match the driver side). Shiming also appears ok and = on both fore mounts under the floor.
Like yours, any and all suggestions are welcome! Thanks.

61corv

When you said the springs, shocks.. seem similar. What do you mean? New springs and shocks? What was the last thing that was done? Looks like new paint, if this was a frame off restore what did it look like before? Maybe the spring is clocked wrong? Was the front taken apart for any reason?

slyguy

Great question, all. My meaning, regarding the springs is really only what my mechanic at the time determined (and this was years ago), best I can remember was that it led to eliminating the springs as an issue - so I never revisited it. I've owned the car since the early 90's but mostly stored it and drove it rarely and have done little to it (other than regular maintenance), so most everything is inherited from a previous owner - who was not overly forthcoming with info. I believe there was a frame off - as the powder coated frame suggests and the body and as you note the paint (which is about 25 years old) are in great shape. In hindsight, when he (previous owner) said he was selling the car because he had child on the way (not uncommon), i came to believe it was more to do with running out of money during the restoration as some things have been done well, and other things leave me saying "what were they thinking?!" I can't speak as to what was done to the front end prior to me, but I added a rad shroud, new third arm and Cokers all-round. This in when the springs were considered but dismissed as an issue. At this time it was also noted that the bumper brackets were installed incorrectly and were incomplete - no doubt so the 'outer' brackets could be 'McGivered" thru the body for bumper mounting.( I believe the proper bumper bracket alignments will only be achieved by correcting this overall issue.)
Throughout the thread, my goal was to isolate the issue on one side - which, I now believe is on the passenger side (being high as apposed to drvr side being low), so, yes, I think I should revisit the springs and shocks as well as the front fg fender profile and body/rad mounts, on the passenger side to begin. Any further feedback/suggestions is greatly appreciated in advance, thanks for your time!

61corv

Maybe a easy way to check is to jack the front of the car up, set jack stands even height and in the same point on the frame (middle of the door) and measure how high the tail lights from the ground and then the middle of the headlight. That will emilinate the body or suspension. Letting the front end hang free.

slyguy

interesting - if I understand, is the goal to have all 4 wheels 'hanging (or just the front?), such that the car is balanced evenly on the jacks? If so, what should i be looking for? i.e.: if the height variance "issue" still exists (If the pass side headlite is still 11/4" higher then the drvr side) , that eliminates suspension and points to body?? Do I have this right? and, what is the significance of the taillite measurement? thanks for your input!

61corv

At least the front... you could leave the rear on the ground just measure its level to the ground.

Pilot Dan

From your picture (and it may not show all) it looks like your radiator is sitting relatively horizontal while the right front is definately raised. My guess is the car was hit in the right front at some point and either the frame was tweaked (though you say it measures straight, or you have some replacement fiberglass or maybe the whole nose that was not properly aligned before it was glued. If you are SURE the frame is straight, i'd be taking a close look at the nose and see if you can find evidence of replacement. I know that is not what you want to hear, but that is what I would do. Consider it might be possible to correct and remount that nose if it turns out to be a botched prior repair.

slyguy

Totally agree I will first double check all my frame specs, but assuming all previous who have inspected are correct then that's might next worse case - that a botched front end glass repair/replacement is the culprit. I have yet to get behind the inner fenders and look directly at the bottom of the fiberglass body on that area, but that might explain a lot. I dread the thought of major body work and paint job/matching… My best hope is that if this is the case I can "tweak" the mounts in the front on either side down and up respectively without cracks ( I know I could get away with it on my 1960 MGA, but… fibre glass?) Likely a spring project either way, so I have lots of time to consider it… so if anything else comes to mind, well, feel free… thanks again for your input!

slyguy

And, yes, the rad is sitting level and the mounts appear correct but I do wonder if I have any flexibility (literally and figuratively) in that area - to tweak the body mounts on the rad - up /down..?

Pilot Dan

Start by measuring from the bolt holes on each side of the front extension rails where your bumper brackets bolt to and determine if the problem might by a bent right front frame rail first. You need to be SURE you can rule that out BEFORE doing anything with the body panels. I think your left side is good based on the measurements I gave you and what you reported, so use that as a baseline and compare from points as far forward as you can.

61corv

Check out post #11.

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-upgrades.html