If you had to back off to get zero lash, you had hydraulic lifters. In a previous post, you said you were going to gap them???????????????

 

PAMOTORMAN has the solution. They also make special clips to cover the holes so you don't get a eye full of oil.
The oil bleed off on a hydraulic lifter is much o hard to do by hand. If you could do it by hand then it would happen with spring pressure.
The inner piston of the lifter has about .0001 between it and the lifter body. The lifter MUST bleed out to self adjust. Oil pressure enters thru the hole at the center of the lifter body from oil pressure when the lifter moves past the oil gallery.
There is a check ball at the very bottom of the lifter. that will allow the lifter piston to raise, but not leak down. Leak down adjustment is past the piston, the check ball only works in one direction. All that allows the lifter to self adjust every time it go's up & down.
It can take up to 40 min for a empty lifter to fill, That's why it is important to fill each lifter with oil until it comes out of the push rod squirt hole. That can be done with the nozel of a hand squeezed oil can.
Also back 50 years ago guys would put solid lifters on a hydraulic cam so every one would think they had a HP engine. They could rev higher, but the down fall was that the solid lifter cam had a different landing ramp on the cam because the solid lifter would leave the cam lobe where the hydraulic lifter alwayd had cam lobe contact.
Forgot to say that there is a thin plate under the push rod socket that acts as a floating valve. it allows the oil to squirt thru the posh rod on the lifter down stroke.

Dom

 

I would admit that if you're a lightweight, it might not work. But it works.

PS. Don't know about a BBC. Never tried one of them.

 

sorry,no solids don't have a clip

 

Original OEM GM didn't have a clip. I have seen later solids that do.

 

all piddle valve solid lifters have a clip holding in the pushrod seat.

 

Good info but SBC's didn't come OEM with piddle valves.

 

if they had original lifters. how many have not been rebuilt ?? if I remember my 68,69 Z/28 had piddle valve lifters.

 

I don't believe any SB's came OEM with the solid piddlers. They used the edge orfice solid lifters.

 

I am afraid the new lifter adjustment is way out of whack.
I did not read that you rotated the engine and only adjusted rocker arms that were at TDC.
If you did not adjust at TDC for each cylinder you are now all messed up.

The only way to fix it now would be to adjust it running.
I bet it runs terrible if it even starts now.
Do one side at a time, one valve cover on to reduce mess.
Make a 6" high cardboard backsplash to sit on the exhaust side of your head.
It should run full length with both ends bent up about 2 inches. Sit this down in the head so any oil splash hits the cardboard and drains down into the head and not out on your exhaust manifold.
Start the engine, now back off the rocker arm one at a time. If it starts tapping pause till it goes quiet and then back off another 1/2 turn. It should start tapping once again, pause, give it 15-30 seconds to adjust and quiet down. Repeat this till the lifter no longer adjusts and quiets down. It keeps tapping. Now very slowly tighten till your tap is gone. Give it another 1/2 turn tight and this one lifter is adjusted properly at the top of adjustment.
Repeat on all other lifters till done.
Since you adjusted all your lifters with the engine off several are going to be far off and some will be very noisy while other cylinders are missing but quiet.
Do the loud ones first to help quiet it down. You can do this in 45 minutes.
It can make a mess. Have pans or cardboard under the car and have the car pretty level or you will spill more oil. Once the engine runs smooth and quiet I would double check the adjustments to make sure a mistake was not made while it was noisy.

 

Interesting link here. Some errors but the pictures are pretty.

http://garage.grumpysperformance.com...-lifter.10431/

 

Sorry I didn't get back to you.....

Yes! If I had Solids I was going to gap them....As it turns out I have Hydraulic lifters....

Thanks

dcamick

 

Well, Just wondering around on the internet and found this Publication on my related post.

http://www.corvetteactioncenter.com/...tment-761.html

My 283 is not original to my car.....Is there any merit to this information?

I just dropped new hydraulic lifters in....pulled a stripped rocker stud (#1 exhaust) and am planning on an "engine off" adjustment to my valves.

Just thought I'd share this information....Comment are welcome!

 

You can take that info to the bank.

 

MikeM,

Have been doing some research...

I have 283 PowerPak heads (1963-65). Hydraulic lifters.

I'm hoping I can go to 0 lash and turn 1/2 - 3/4 turn to set these valves with the engine off.

I appreciate your response...

 

Look at the assembly date on your block. The long travel lifters were only for a partial year. 1961.

Otherwise, to make sure, follow the check procedure as outlined at the bottom of the TSB on a valve or two.

 

OK!

Thought I would let everyone feel my pain! I have an update, hopefully to aid other's through their journey in finding an upper engine tap.

Replaced hydraulic lifters, checked push rods and scoped cam: Still have tap around #6 Cyl.
Pulled headers, replaced header gaskets: Still have tap around #6 Cyl.

I plan to Squeeze the the inlet side of the fuel hose to the fuel pump see if the tapping decreases. If it does.....I will try to not SHOOT myself!!!! then replace rebuild the pump.

Sound like a Plan???

Therapy replies requested............

Merry Christmas!!!

 

The only thing I did on my 327 after doing what you just did was kick my a?? when I removed the 2 bolts on the fuel pump and found the broken spring.
I just took a spring off another and my noise was gone. Really hope it's your spring so you can put this to bed!

Dom