c1 engine temps
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
c1 engine temps
No one says they cant get their corvette to run hot enough , since my latest freshening up of my 327 CE standard bore motor any temps above 140 don't exist ,
over the weekend I installed a 160 high flow thermostat . and still low reading well time for a 180 and ill see what happens , the car does not warm up enough for good tuning conditions . the water pump I installed was a napa brand pump the radiator is stock alum dated 1965 .
over the weekend I installed a 160 high flow thermostat . and still low reading well time for a 180 and ill see what happens , the car does not warm up enough for good tuning conditions . the water pump I installed was a napa brand pump the radiator is stock alum dated 1965 .
#2
Race Director
Member Since: Oct 2004
Location: Cape Cod, Mass.
Posts: 18,762
Received 4,551 Likes
on
2,160 Posts
2023 C3 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2021 C8 of the Year Finalist Unmodified
2020 Corvette of the Year Finalist (performance mods)
2019 C1 of Year Winner (performance mods)
2017 Corvette of the Year Finalist
2016 C2 of Year
2015 C3 of Year Finalist
Have you confirmed the temps with an IR gun? Sounds like it's too low to be accurate. May be a gauge/send unit problem. I would run a 180. A 160 thermostat will cause it to run cool in the Northeast during temps under 50 degrees. In the summer it will still take the temps to where the car wants to run.
#3
I have the same problem in the winter. I just put a piece of cardboard in front of the radiator. You will need to experiment to see how much of the radiator needs to be blocked.
#4
Safety Car
Member Since: Jan 2000
Location: Poway CA
Posts: 4,845
Received 1,295 Likes
on
560 Posts
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2022 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2021 C1 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C1 of Year Finalist (stock)
2016 C1 of Year Finalist
That should not be necessary when using a thermostat though... right?
#6
Race Director
Correct.
The blocking the radiator method was done in the 1930s and before when cars didn't have thermostats. if you have a working thermostat and didn't dick with it by drilling a bunch of holes in it, you don't need to block the radiator
The owners manual for my 1933 Chevy Roadster states to block the radiator and close the hood vents in cold weather and open the hood vents in hot weather. (Thermostats were an add on accessory and were not supplied with the car). And in weather below 20*F, to add 1 quart of kerosene to the oil sump to help thin the oil.
Edit: The hood vents do work as designed, as the engine compartment is mostly blocked off underneath to prevent air from escaping unless the hood vents are open.
Doug
The blocking the radiator method was done in the 1930s and before when cars didn't have thermostats. if you have a working thermostat and didn't dick with it by drilling a bunch of holes in it, you don't need to block the radiator
The owners manual for my 1933 Chevy Roadster states to block the radiator and close the hood vents in cold weather and open the hood vents in hot weather. (Thermostats were an add on accessory and were not supplied with the car). And in weather below 20*F, to add 1 quart of kerosene to the oil sump to help thin the oil.
Edit: The hood vents do work as designed, as the engine compartment is mostly blocked off underneath to prevent air from escaping unless the hood vents are open.
Doug
Last edited by AZDoug; 11-13-2017 at 05:03 PM.
#9
Racer
The following users liked this post:
ironheadvette (11-15-2017)
#12
Team Owner
My 61 hung right in at 175* to 180* all day, every day. Its an odd one that runs TOO cool...usually the opposite. I'd confirm the sending unit for sure.
#13
Tether Man
Member Since: Dec 2004
Location: Pittsburgh, South Hills
Posts: 4,537
Received 2,014 Likes
on
1,039 Posts
2023 C2 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2022 C2 of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
2019 C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods)