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If i remember correctly its the adjustment for the play or tension on the worm shaft.
It's for setting end play on the armature. There should be ZERO pre-load/tension. All the ones I've rebuilt, I set at a couple .001 end play which is just a perceivable movement.
That screw limits the amount of gear climb (linear movement) of the drive gear shaft during operation. To adjust it to the proper setting, loosen the nut and turn the set screw down until it is just snug enough to touch the shaft the drive gear is mounted to. You do not want it too tight because it will induce friction and cause the motor to drag during operation. when you think you have it right, tighten the lock nut back down and operate the motor again to make sure all is well.
This adjustment procedure is best done with the motor on the bench and a power supply to the connector leads.
Can't remember where I ran across it and it's been a while since I worked on my headlight motors replacing the bottom spherical bushing and spring but I seem to recall the suggestion for end play on that screw-stud as lightly running it down to take out all play and then just backing off a quarter turn. Allows just enough room so there's no tension.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
Can't remember where I ran across it and it's been a while since I worked on my headlight motors replacing the bottom spherical bushing and spring but I seem to recall the suggestion for end play on that screw-stud as lightly running it down to take out all play and then just backing off a quarter turn. Allows just enough room so there's no tension.
Mike T - Prescott AZ
That is the correct way to set it up. That 1/4 turn is fairly close to .001". The main thing is that there is absolutely zero pre-load on the armature. It's interesting that the article, by those that supposedly know what they're doing, fails to mention the biggest cautionary step in the rebuilding of these motors that can save many hours of grief. I guess it's such common knowledge that it doesn't need to be mentioned.
Well, I will mention it. If you are going to remove the armature/worm gear shaft (which you should, to make sure the bushing and retainer are intact), sand down the exposed portion before pulling it. If you don't, you may pull the bushing out with the shaft, and then you are in a world of hurt.
Well, I will mention it. If you are going to remove the armature/worm gear shaft (which you should, to make sure the bushing and retainer are intact), sand down the exposed portion before pulling it. If you don't, you may pull the bushing out with the shaft, and then you are in a world of hurt.
Thanks for the non-judgemental sharing of additional information buns; not everybody can do it
It's interesting that the article, by those that supposedly know what they're doing, fails to mention the biggest cautionary step in the rebuilding of these motors that can save many hours of grief. I guess it's such common knowledge that it doesn't need to be mentioned.
Well, it wasn't common enough to me. I was thinkng the same thing as I went through the article.
The very first one I took apart, the bushing popped out. I did manage to re-install it and it's been okay since. Wasn't easy.
11-15-2017, 09:17 PM
What's the function of this screw on the headlight motor?
That is the correct way to set it up. That 1/4 turn is fairly close to .001". The main thing is that there is absolutely zero pre-load on the armature. It's interesting that the article, by those that supposedly know what they're doing, fails to mention the biggest cautionary step in the rebuilding of these motors that can save many hours of grief. I guess it's such common knowledge that it doesn't need to be mentioned.
