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Anyone have the GM shop spring compressor for C2? I have a compressor, but not the GM and it won't get it for me. I've checked around and of the two primarily available, neither will work. I've installed my springs during the chassis resto, and did not get the top of the spring into the seat on the frame. With the coils close together and access from the bottom and top restricted, looks like you need the one shown in the manual.
All help appreciated. Don't want to remove the spindles and start over now.
Just in the process of researching coil spring removal and installation on my 66’. Discussion of spring compressors on CF Archives has lead me to believe most traditional spring compressors are difficult to work with. Many have successfully used a homemade “threaded rod device”. Check out You Tube Video “1966 Corvette Spring Installation tool and front suspension completed” by BradK. He shows this rod devices construction, benefits and how it’s used. I HOPE others will chime in and offer there valued experiences, advice and guidance.
Last edited by Tmichaelson; Nov 17, 2017 at 11:53 PM.
When I cut the springs on my '55 210 I put a threaded rod where the shock usually goes and removed the bolts on the hinged side of the lower control arm with a floor jack holding the hinged side up. Let the jack down slowly and you can then remove the spring or simply rotate it into position. The rod will prevent the spring from launching if anything were to go wrong. Then jack the control arm back up and install the bolts. I don't see why this wouldn't work on the Corvette. This seemed safer than trying to use those spring compressors.
John, that’s how I installed these, except from the ball joint side. It’s a little more stable from that direction. I use a heavy chain in case it wants to fly. Problem with the Vette is the spring needs to bend inward but is too stiff to do so easily. Hoping not to redo that exercise.
Will search for the threaded rod solution. Would be similar to the GM tool and my thoughts. Haven’t come up with the part to fit into the spring for the threaded rod.
John, that’s how I installed these, except from the ball joint side. It’s a little more stable from that direction. I use a heavy chain in case it wants to fly. Problem with the Vette is the spring needs to bend inward but is too stiff to do so easily. Hoping not to redo that exercise.
Will search for the threaded rod solution. Would be similar to the GM tool and my thoughts. Haven’t come up with the part to fit into the spring for the threaded rod.
Pop:
You should find all the info about this in the C2 Archives........or maybe Google it and see what shows up. Simple to make with threaded rod, some washers, and a piece of metal plate like a old lawnmower blade that is cur down to length.
Make CERTAIN to get a good quality threaded rod and nuts, not the cheap hardware brand. Don't want threads to fail during compression.
Chuck Gongloff showed pics of one he made here a few years back.
Mike, tried something similar. When I can jack up the chassis and relieve some stretch it may work. My age seems to work against me though! Thanks.
NowhereMan, Dan, good solution. I'm trying to compress toward the bottom though. I need the top to slide inward about 2". I'll see if that works on the bottom side.
Powershift, it's the plate that has me stumped. Needs to be thin relatively so and strong. LM blade may be the trick, thanks.
This is not my first time on these springs on this car. I was just a lot younger and stronger then!!
The threaded-rod-and-plates-and-nuts-and-washers compressors work great, and they're a LOT safer/stronger if you use rod and nuts with ACME (square cross-section) threads. All the industrial supply houses and Fastenal stock it.
The home-made spring compressors are probably the way to go but
I've used a standard, parts house coil spring compressor several times. I take it apart and discard the top sliding block and hooks and stick that end up through the shock mount hole in the frame and install two or three large greased washers and a nut.
I install the lower block/hooks up the inside and hook to about the third or fourth coil up so the hooks don't get trapped inside the A-arm pocket. I orient the hooks front and rear on the spring coils and then start cranking it up until it's compressed enough to get the lower part of the spring into the lower a-arm.
With the hooks oriented front and rear the compressed spring can be pushed in to the center to get it in the a-arm. Then if I need to compress it a little more to get the spindle engaged to the ball joint I use a floor jack to compress the lower coils a bit and start the ball joint nut.
After everything is secured, I thread the rod all the way out of the lower block because it won't come out of the lower shock hole assembled. After it's free I work it out of the lower shock hole - but it's tight. I'm not sure every hook/block assembly would come out of it so best to trial test this first.
I've learned over the years that this isn't the favored way but I have the spring compressor and it's worked for me.