Hulou

What do I have to do and whatadditional parts do I need to Put in a T-10 4 Speed Tranny in my 1959 Corvette

427390HP

There are several threads that have covered this in the past. Do a search and you will find a lot of information.

Also, the AIM will give you all of the diagrams for the installation of the parts necessary for the conversion, so be sure to look at that very closely to double check everything.

Here is one thread in the C1 and C2 FAQ sticky section that I thought had the most complete list:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...post1552252627

Look specifically at post #6 by member bk2w. Here is what he wrote:

It appears that the brake pedal pivot tube receives bushing that then receive the clutch pedal pivot tube. A PG car has caps instead of the bushings. At least that's what I've been able to glean so far.

Here's the list I've managed to put together so far for my '58 (CC# is the Corvette Central part number and price)

Parts that are obvious:
- flywheel, original was a 168-tooth design. (Kragen #PIO-FW100 $102.99)
- clutch plate, pressure plate, throwout bearing, pilot bushing, et al. (CC#531005 $159.00)
- transmission
- shifter, if not integral to the transmission (BW with linkage CC#531032 $365.00, Muncie with linkage CC#531033 $365.00)

Parts that have to be added:
- clutch pedal (CC#531082 $82.95)
- clutch pedal stop bracket & bumper (CC#531351 $14.05)
- clutch pedal pushrod (CC#531352 $25.40)
- clutch push rod firewall retainer (CC#531356 $11.00)and seal (CC#531355 $5.75)
- clutch cross-shaft (CC#531365 $86.50)
- clutch cross-shaft seals (CC#531364 $9.40)
- clutch cross-shaft support, bellhousing (bolted) (CC#531361 $21.60)
- clutch cross-shaft support, frame (welded) (CC#531372 $28.70)
- clutch return spring (CC#531368 $15.00)
- clutch return spring bracket, frame (welded) (CC#531371 $19.10)
- clutch return spring bracket, cross-shaft (bolted) (CC#531366 $19.95)
- clutch return spring bracket, oval (CC#531367 $5.95)
- clutch return spring, hairpin bracket (CC#531370 $6.60)
- clutch fork pushrod (CC#531379 $29.00)
- clutch fork pushrod swivel (CC#531383 $4.75)
- clutch fork (CC#531380 $52.45)
- clutch fork pivot stud (CC#531384 $10.40)
- clutch fork pivot pin (CC#531385 $3.10)
- clutch fork boot (leather '56-60 CC#531381 $24.15) (rubber '61-62 CC#531382 $28.00)
- bellhousing, preferably one appropriate for a C1 corvette, as some bellhousing have the pivot in a different place, or aren't large enough to fit the 168-tooth flywheel. '56-'59 used #3733365 (CC#531008 $131.25), '60 used #3764591, '61-62 used #3779553 (CC#531009 $???). Later bellhousing don't have provisions for bolting the starter to the bellhousing (they used block-mounted starters).
- clutch inspection cover (CC#531405 $22.05)
- clutch underpan (CC#531406 $52.45)
- various bolts, nuts and washers

Parts that have to be changed:
- brake pedal bushings (CC#191005 $14.65)
- transmission mount bracket, highly dependant on what transmission gets installed (for T-10 CC#531302 $17.00)

The pedal support bracket bolts to the firewall, and is apparently the same. Not sure if the stop bracket needs to be welded to it.

Good luck with the conversion.

Terry

Robert61

I have everything from a 61. All clutch linkage, pedal, bell housing, T 10. I switched to a 4L60E.

Hulou

Great,
Do I have to weld a "Bracket" onto the frame???

THanks,
Hugh
Virginia

Hulou

Terry,
Thank You, Wow! Great! do you have any pictures could could send Me of your swap out?
Is this procedure Hard??

Do I have to weld a Bracket onto the frame for the cross shaft??

thank You,

Hugh
hugh1928@gmail.com

Virginia

427390HP

The information I posted was compiled by member bk2w that I found doing a search. I thought it was a fairly complete list of the parts you will need for the conversion.

I did convert my '60 from an automatic (TH350) back to a 4 speed a couple of years ago. But my car was an original 4 speed, so it made a couple of things a little easier. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures of the conversion.

Yes, you will have to weld two brackets on the frame. One for the cross shaft (zbar) ball stud and one for the clutch pedal return spring (the "gorilla" spring). It is extremely critical the cross shaft mount on the frame is in the exact location or you will have geometry problems with your clutch pedal working smoothly.

I would not consider the whole process to be overly difficult, but my brother (he has done many transmission swaps over the years) did most of the installation work. My job was to have ALL of the CORRECT parts on hand and ready to go. That does take some time and effort, but it makes the installation go smoothly.

Before I forget, be sure you get the correct clutch, pressure plate, and throw out bearing. There are numerous threads on this topic, but the essence of the previous discussions is that C1 Corvette replacement clutches today commonly use a BENT FINGER diaphragm clutch disc with the SHORT throw out bearing. Some major aftermarket vendors sell a long throw out bearing in their kits and you will not get the clutch to disengage fully if you install a long throw out bearing. Do a search and you will find many threads discussing this topic.

I would strongly suggest that you go through the AIM and ST-12 Service manual thoroughly and study every page related to clutch, clutch likage, shifter and transmisssion so that you can nearly "assemble" all of these parts in your mind.

Then go through each page again and list all of the parts you will need. Again, the list prepared by bk2w is an excellent starting point.

I will repeat that the planning stage is very important and takes the most time (by far!) but that time should make your conversion go smoothly and, if you have everything, quickly.

Terry

Robert61

I'll take a picture of the frame mount tomorrow. It will show you what you'll need.

Robert61

These are the 2 brackets you'll need for the frame. One is for the spring which you may not even want.

Hulou

Robert61

Wow, These are great Pics Thank You!!
I talked to ZIP corvette The man I talked too said if I mach in up and attached the bolts to the Bellhousing the Bracket will faLL INTO THE correct location, then I could mark the location on the frame and weld/tac the brackets to the frame,

What do ya think? Hugh

Hulou

Terry,

Thank You for all your help I'm still studing all the diagrams and pictures I'm still cornfused about the The push rod and the clutch pedal itself,, Where does that fit? do I have to cut a hold throught the cardboard on the inside of the firewall??

Hugh

Hulou

Robert61,

Again, good Pics of the 2 brackets on the frame you sent. I was just wondering, If you have access to the frame. and you give me a measurement along the frame on the distance/location of the two brackets then I can put the measurements along my frame .

Thanks Hugh
hugh1928@gmail.com

427390HP

Hugh,

Yes, you will need a hole in the firewall for the clutch push rod to go through.

On my car, from the engine side of the car, the centerline of the hole is 2.5 inches below the seam on the firewall and to the left 5.0 inches from the centerline of the parking brake cable hole.

Note 1: It is hard to get an accurate measurement with all of the parts in place. In your other thread (Install of the cross shaft frame bracket), member 6D2148 (Chris) posted excellent pictures. I noticed that he does not appear to have his push rod installed, so perhaps he could get you a more accurate measurement.

Note 2: The location of this hole is critical as there is not much room left as the rod travels back and forth and has a slight up and down movement in the hole. Your rod may bind on the hole opening if it is not in the correct location.

Note 3: On the inside of the car, the push rod goes down on the right side of the clutch pedal and exits the firewall (on my car) right at the upper edge of the carpet. You will need to cut a hole in your insulation and carpet to get the rod through the firewall. There may be a perforated punch out in your insulation, but be cautious about using that as the definitive location of the hole.

Here's a picture of my firewall where the push rod comes out with my measurements on where the hole should be. Please ignore my homemade retainer and seal.





Next, here are diagrams for the clutch pedal/push rod and clutch cross shaft compliments of Corvette Central that may be easier to understand. All references are to Corvette Central part numbers.






Somewhat oversimplified, here's the steps to install the clutch pedal and push rod:

CLUTCH PEDAL & PUSH ROD INSTALLATION








1. Install clutch pedal pivot sleeve (if not already there). SKU 531049

2. Install clutch pedal bushing in pivot sleeve. SKU 191005

3. Install clutch pedal bumper bracket and bumper. SKU 531351

4. Attach clutch pedal push rod bracket (SKU 531345) to clutch pedal (SKU 531039) with fasteners (SKU 531027).

5. Insert clutch pedal arm into pivot sleeve with fasteners. (SKU 531122)

6. Insert push rod (SKU 531353) through firewall hole and fasten to pedal push rod bracket (SKU 531345) with fasteners (SKU 531044).

Note: The "V" in the push rod bracket points down.

7. Fasten push rod to cross shaft (SKU 531365) with shoulder bolt (SKU 531354) and 1/4-20 nut and washer.

Note: This is the OEM installation method but several others have used variations of heim joints or other methods to improve the original design. Review this thread for additional information:

https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...improving-the- c1-clutch-linkage.html

8. Install clutch push rod seal and retainer to engine side firewall. (SKU 531356 & 531355).

If you are definitely going to do the conversion, I would suggest you go ahead and get all the parts. Then, along with the pictures and diagrams, start trial fitting the pieces together. I think it will become much clearer how this all works with actual parts in hand and actually fitting the pieces.

Terry

Robert61

I'll get you something to go by Monday and post.

Hulou

TerryTerry
Wow, Thank You! what an excellent Report and with your pictures Pictures! I must admit it is somewhat more complicated than I thought!!! I wish I could get your Brother to do My conversation! I will have to do much more studying the pictures and looking at all the Parts before I go cutting on the firewall!! I just hope someday I could be as helpful as you have been to me, a fellow Corvette guy. I see now I have a big task in front of me!
\Best Regards,
Hugh
Virginia
hugh1928@gmail.com
Send me your email, I will send a pic of my 59

Hulou

Terry,

On your picture of the inside of the car, Where does "clutch pedal bumper bracket and bumper. SKU 531351" go? there is it placed??

Is it placed on the Frame???

Hugh

427390HP

Look at the first Corvette Central diagram. The pedal bumper/bracket (531351) bolts to the side of the support (191028).

Just stick your head up under your dash and look at where your brake pedal pivots. That's the support and the clutch pedal pivot and this bumper are located on the left side of the support. My second picture shows that pretty well.

There are a lot of parts to the conversion and initially it may seem very complicated. But just take one step at a time and it will fall in place. What I mean by one step at a time is to break the conversion down into individual components, clutch pedal and push rod; cross shaft (frame mount, engine mount, and cross shaft); clutch fork and rod; flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing; transmission and transmission mounting; and shifter.

I initially thought my conversion was almost overwhelming - to me. But I will stress once again, just work on one step at a time and have it all laid out and then (and only then) move on to the next step. That will not only make it seem a little less complicated, but it greatly ensures that you will have ALL of the CORRECT parts necessary once you start the actual conversion. Patience and attention to detail are necessary at this stage of the process.

Terry

Robert61

I tried to use a reference point you can use. Its 4" back from the oval slot in the frame. If this isn't good enough just say so and I'll use my iPad. The 7 1/2" for the spring is forward from the body mount bracket.

Robert61

As you can see in post #8 the clutch bracket over hangs the frame. If you put the z bar in while you weld it will give you a reference as to location for and aft as well as how much it should over hang.

427390HP

I agree. The only thing I would add is that you may want to put some type of temporary washer on each side of the z bar to simulate the thickness of the seals (531364 on the second diagram in post #12). That should make the positioning of the frame bracket nearly spot on.

Terry

Hulou

Robert,

Pictures are great I think I have the location, THanks to your Tape in the PIc, Great!!!

Thank You,
Hugh