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Got one. E-mail me papalani@hawaiiantel.net
Give me your address and I will mail it out to you.
Just to confirm that is the clip that accepts the screw for the INSIDE moulding.
Brgds,
Rene
That's it Rene!
Thanks a lot, and let me know what I owe you for it!
Took out the spare tire tub, and the hardware for it.
Stuff is still cleaning up pretty good.
Boy, I would hate to have to locate the hardware for this item. Fortunately, they cleaned up real good too!
Yes, you would. The tub finish should be natural fiberglass all over except for the reinforcing V-bars which are black. Check the integrity of the rivets while you've got the lid off. I had to replace two. When remounting just BARELY snug up the 4 fine thread tub bolts as you can strip the body threads easily. They only hold the tub, the lid holds the real weight (the tire)...
Do you have the spare tire tub lock ? If not, there are different types floating around so be careful what you pick up...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 02-21-2018 at 07:22 AM.
Yes, you would. The tub finish should be natural fiberglass all over except for the reinforcing V-bars which are black. Check the integrity of the rivets while you've got the lid off. I had to replace two. When remounting just BARELY snug up the 4 fine thread tub bolts as you can strip the body threads easily. They only hold the tub, the lid holds the real weight (the tire)...
Do you have the spare tire tub lock ? If not, there are different types floating around so be careful what you pick up...
Unfortunately, I don't have the spare tire tub lock.
Thanks for all the pictures, if you notice the rear bumper brackets are approx 1/4" thick, that's another 63 only thing. in later years the brackets are more like 1/8" +- thick steel.
Could you tell me what the head markings and length are on the 6 bolts with the shoulders (three each side) that secure the rear brackets to the frame.
Thanks for all the pictures, if you notice the rear bumper brackets are approx 1/4" thick, that's another 63 only thing. in later years the brackets are more like 1/8" +- thick steel.
Thanks for all the pictures, if you notice the rear bumper brackets are approx 1/4" thick, that's another 63 only thing. in later years the brackets are more like 1/8" +- thick steel.
Could you tell me what the head markings and length are on the 6 bolts with the shoulders (three each side) that secure the rear brackets to the frame.
Hello Tbarb,
The six long bolts are 1&3/4" in length, and the two shorter bolts are 1&1/4" in length.
The six bolt heads have markings as "RBW" on them, and the two shorter bolts have "TR" on them. I have run across several bolts that have been identified with the "TR" marking.
The six long bolts are 1&3/4" in length, and the two shorter bolts are 1&1/4" in length.
The six bolt heads have markings as "RBW" on them, and the two shorter bolts have "TR" on them. I have run across several bolts that have been identified with the "TR" marking.
Also, I have taken four (4), body to frame bolts out, and they too have the designation of RBW on them. A bit different configuration, but it's definitely RBW on the heads of them.
The two 63s I have done I stayed with the plastic after some polishing although the glass would be tempting.
Just another note...that greenish tint inside the cluster to amplify the dash bulb light is pretty lame and prob faded after years. The 63 cluster is dim at night already so re-shooting those areas with something a little more reflective is a consideration..
I had the rebuilder repaint the pale green inside the cluster to bright white and it made the gauges much brighter and easier to read. Adding LED dash lights everywhere possible also helped a lot.
Nice Job. Your experience from your other cars shows. vbulletin/540x960/80-1963_corvette_clutch_and_pedal_reconditi oned_3_bb3e808f2704eacdd535ff682204b4a77 7758d30.jpg[/IMG]
Assembled my clutch and brake components, and will put them away in a box.
Before and after pics.
A little at a time!
Will be making a dolly next week so I can set the body on it.
Pat
Pat,
The pictures look great, one thing I think you should address is to replace the clutch rod PIN that's on the clutch pedal. The pin probably has a groove in it and will not be smooth when you push the clutch pedal down.
If it shears you will also be dead in the water stuck. You can buy the reproduction bracket or remove the existing bracket and grind the pin flat (after you measure the length) then drive it out as you can break the little spot welds. Go get a grade eight bolt, cut and use the shank cut to length, drill a new hole for the clip, install and weld. Make sure to get it square with the bracket.
I hate those plastic brake light switches, I put a metal one on the 63; technically if you're going with power brakes the brake pedal return spring for manual brakes on the top horizontal shaft is removed. Not really a biggee unless you're being judged though.
The pictures look great, one thing I think you should address is to replace the clutch rod PIN that's on the clutch pedal. The pin probably has a groove in it and will not be smooth when you push the clutch pedal down.
If it shears you will also be dead in the water stuck. You can buy the reproduction bracket or remove the existing bracket and grind the pin flat (after you measure the length) then drive it out as you can break the little spot welds. Go get a grade eight bolt, cut and use the shank cut to length, drill a new hole for the clip, install and weld. Make sure to get it square with the bracket.
Great catch Tbarb! I was just looking at that worn piece.
Thanks for the heads up though! Save me some headaches later.
02-21-2018, 12:43 AM
vbulletin/540x960/80-1963_corvette_clutch_and_pedal_reconditi oned_3_bb3e808f2704eacdd535ff682204b4a77 7758d30.jpg[/IMG]