Randy G.

What do you think the manufacturer would tell you if you said you took it apart before you installed it to avoid a warranty claim? You will void the warranty if you take it apart, and it would be easy for the manufacturer to tell. A crate motor that has a real problem would become your problem and not the manufacturers. Just order one from a company with a good reputation and install it. I have, and I've had no issues.

Easy Rhino

Theoretical question: what if the person tearing down and rebuilding the brand new crate engine has a skill level lower than the skill of the original builder? What purpose would this tear down serve?

What if this second builder who paid to have the supplier build the engine manages to mangle up this new engine? I'm going to have to say that any warranty would be obviated at this point. Actually, I'm wondering how the warrantee would work if the buyer/second builder opens it up and finds a problem, but let's table that one for now.

Would this second tear down go to the level of magnafluxing ferrous parts? Replacing torque to yield bolts? Checking rod straightness? Gapping rings? How would supplied parts like rod bolts be verified as correct?

On the other hand, if a person has sufficient expertise to do as good or better than a supplier, why not build it yourself? Particularly if you're gong to tear it down anyway.

Just wondering.

GTR1999

In a perfect, textbook world -not governed by fast work for quick profit you would be able to buy a rebuilt diff and install it and be done. I know I am being a bit cynical but I have been doing these a long time and repaired more "rebuilt" work then I can recall. To answer your question, if you have a 63-64 diff you can build it to application but it will need all new internals. The 65-68's were slightly better but had crack issues with the posi case design, the 69-71 had the better posi design, the 72-79 had minor revisions but had the better spiders. There wasn't a perfect production built diff between 63-82, they all had different issues- some more so then others. The good news is built to application they are pretty strong. Notice I said built to application which is not a common master kit stock rebuild. Replacing bearings and seals doesn't address areas that need attention. The 63-4's had weak posi's and pinions.

59BlueSilver

I curious to know how far you recommend “opening” the engine. Pulling pistons, checking ring gap, miking everything, valve sealing, etc.?
Seems to me, that if you’re going to do that, you might as well build your own engine.

SledgeHammer 2.0

You to? They screwed me on an LS crate engine, same deal.."take it to any GM Dealer"... "we don't work on stuff that old" . I tell everyone I can not to buy from GM or Summit Racing.


I have heard good things about these guys but have never purchased from them.

http://www.smedingperformance.com/ch...orsepower.html

Randy G.

I would think any manufacturer that had a major warranty failure would want to dissect it to make sure they don't have a couple dozen more in the field ready to break. We've used rod bolt stretch gauges whenever a rod came flying through the pan just to eliminate the loose rod bolt scenario. I'm sure there are other methods to tell what went wrong. And if my $6,000 crate motor came apart I would rather be responsible for the R&R than be told "Too bad you messed with it."

Gavin65

let me think about this for a moment, I buy a crate motor for 3 to 6 grand, with a warranty, and I have it torn down to make sure it was put together correctly, all this for piece of mind, Im buying the crate motor for piece of mind. I realize that many folks may not have the skill to build their own but for me before I buy a crate motor and have it torn down I will build it myself, I have been continplating doing an LS swap, but I wont go the crate route, there are plenty of low mileage LS motors out there, Freshen it up go with GM's hot cam and your over 400hp . My daily driver is an 06 GTO with an LS2 The GTO is heavy and that motor makes it feel awful light, I love my 365 but it really pales in comparison to the LS. Question, if you bought a crate LS7 or LSA, and we are talking about 13 to 18 grand, would you have those torn down as well?

JRZR

I do. Currently plan to pack it in transmission fluid and store it and other take offs for the next owner....you know that guy 10-12 years down the pike.

JRZR

Thanks, guys. Right now, i'm sure i'll use a 5 speed Tremec, maybe from Hurst. My best guess is a 383 FI and new rear-gears. Long way to go. Keeping my fingers crossed. I appreciate all the help.

68hemi

You said you still have your original engine but you did not say what h.p. version it is?

You can easily have both your matching numbers and the power you want by using your original block with a 383 stroker kit. I would use the new aluminum double hump heads made I believe by Trick Flow that look like original GM heads. You won't have to do any head work just use them out of the box. You can use a L79 intake, carb and hydraulic cam and EASILY be at 425 h.p. or more with 2 1/2" factory exhaust manifolds. Your engine will look like a 1964 365 h.p. factory engine with the correct air cleaner and you can continue to use your factory valve covers.

If you choose to run F.I. instead of the factory set up indicated above and you sell it to someone that relishes the factory look they can just take it off and add the intake and carb suggested above. It keeps your options opened and will widen your sales audience when you do sell the car. If I were going to use the 5 speed I would keep the 4 speed shift plate and you will have a very stealth set up. You can add the PS, disc brakes and Vintage Air without effecting your value except to the positive. It will all make for a nice drivable, comfortable car.

OHSIXX

Attachment 48351762

dmaxx3500

why not just go thru ,your eng,still looks stock and runs great?

Nowhere Man

that would be to easy

Pop Chevy

And not gain a whole lot.

GearheadJoe

I agree with this type of approach. It's a straightforward drop-in to stroke a '64 327 to 350 by just turning down the main journals of a forged 350 crank. With careful attention to rod selection, you can go to 362 or 383 CID with minimal clearance grinding on the block.

In terms of power production, there is no difference between a 383 built from a '64 block and one built from a newer block. Aside from the cam, the only important aspects of the short block for power production are the displacement and the compression.

With the original block stroked to 350 to 383 CID, you can maintain 100% original appearance using the stock heads and intake, or maintain 95% original appearance and get more power with the new Trick Flow double-hump heads and a Z28/LT1 intake.

65air_coupe

You've stated exactly what I was thinking as I read this thread.

Drothgeb

A good running LS1 can be picked up at the junkyard for $1000 +/-. LS3s are a bit more pricey, but probably worth it. Those are good choices if you are OK with the LS look.

Me personally, I’m not a huge fan of the LS look unless it’s a full restomod. For my 61, I pulled the original engine, and I’m building a moderate 327 bored and stroked to 360 for it. It will still have the original look, and better build quality than a standard crate engine for less $$$.

I thought about going 383, but got a really good price on a forged small journal 350 crank, so I went that way.

TJefferson2020

This.

JRZR

It's a 300 hp. All original.

JRZR

One other question. Does anyone offer a disc brake package (front and rear) that will allow me to continue to use the aluminum knock off wheels?