JRZR

Difficult decision, but I've decided to abandon this numbers matching business with my '64. Going to new crate power and 5 speed. I'd like the engine to stay around 25hp either side of 400. Questions are (1) what's the best engine choice? (2) who's the best vendor? carburetor or fuel injection?(3) replace the differential or no? I'd like to add power steering, power disc brakes and A/C. Any opinion would be greatly appreciated.

Nowhere Man

Horsepower is relative to how much money you want to throw at it.

Fox 2/23

I just purchased a 383 435hp crate motor from summit it came dressed with the water pump and intake manifold. Then put the Holley Terminator EFI on it long tube headers and Borla stainless steel exhaust and it has been a beast. (Note) This motor set up is not in a car I put it on my Air Boat for water fowl hunting.

67's

I would look at Jegs, Pace, Summit, even GM, find something with a warranty and the the specs you want, then drive the snot out of it.

68hemi

If you are going to get a crate engine also budget to have it opened up before installing it and checking it over. Many of these crate engines have problems that can be headed off by doing this.

I just had a 383 built for my car and rather than doing a 5 speed I have chosen to go with a 3.08 rear end ratio. It will have the same effect on the highway driving but I will give up some power on the low end. Not a problem for me as my new engine is between 450-500 h.p. at the flywheel per old school rating and that is plenty as I am not planning on pulling any stumps out with this car.

Pop Chevy

400 would be my 1st choice, 383 2nd choice. Fuel injection would be nice but carbs are
o-k. 5 speed is smart money. 400 hp shouldn't hurt the drivetrain if you don't beat on it, too much. Numbers matching never did a thing for me. Make it the way YOU want it. BTW fill out your profile. Pops

Rob_64-365

If I were to go this route, I would think of a modern LS, a/c, 6 speed. The weight savings of the aluminum block would help as well.

NightshiftHD

I would avoid a 6 speed in a C2 cause you have to cut the tunnel to make it fit. A 5 speed with a 0.65 5th gives you everything you need for highway cruising, and it bolts right in with the offset shifter from suppliers like SST, etc. Just my $0.02 worth. Bill

GTR1999

If you still have the original 64 DANA diff then it is about as weak as you can get, almost as bad as the 80-82 DANA's

Easy Rhino

Not cheap but warranty, plus adds value as a known quantity.

http://www.chevrolet.com/performance...s/zz6-turn-key

68hemi

From and the warranty is pretty much worthless. Chevrolet tells you to go to one of their dealers but the dealers turn you away stating they do not have the equipment to deal with this engine transplanted in our old cars.

Pop Chevy

GTR , you are right about the 64 diff. I forgot about that. Easy to step up to a newer one though, along with a set of 3.70's.

tuxnharley

I gave up matching numbers on my 67 in 1972.

Currently have a built up ZZ4 (around 400 hp), Tremec 5 spd, and 3.36 axle. Nice combo for the street and highway.

1snake

I would buy an engine from Blueprint Engines before I would from GM. They offer small blocks anywhere from 325 to 500+ HP and all come with a dyno sheet and a 30 month/50K mile warranty.

DONR

JRZR,

In my 66 conv. I am in the process of installing a GM ZZ383 crate motor I bought off of a forum member. At the same time I am installed Borgeson Power Steering, and a Tremec 5 speed I bought from Silver Sport. I will also be changing out the rear end to 3:70's. I have a Carb I am going to try first before I decide to go with a Fitech FI unit. I have a set of Sanderson shorty headers I am installing, MSD HEI Distributor, MSD starter.
Before I started this motor and tranny swap I replaced all of my body mount shims and rubber. I just lifted the body up enough to do the job. That went pretty well. Last year I installed Vintage Air. Well worth it at times.
A word of advive do not plan on putting more insulation in your tranny tunnel than the factory type. The tremec is a very tight fit in the tranny tunnel. I am pretty close getting everything hooked up for the motor and Tremec. I went ahead and used Tremecs Titanium bell Housing and clutch and pressure plate recommendation. I am very anscious to get it running.
Don

Jim Rosenthal

I don't know what crate motors cost, but I agree strongly with having someone go through it before you set it up to run. I also wonder how much it would cost to buy the block and rotating assembly and have it put together by a good engine shop that knows what they are doing. This is going to be a performance engine that will get worked hard, and you would like to be comfortable knowing everything inside it is shipshape.

68hemi

Do you still have your original engine?

Randy G.

What happens to the warranty when they find out you "opened it up?"

daz_au

My diff is probably the thing I worry about the most. What the best path here, just get a built 65+ and bolt it in or can the 64 be saved with new internals ?

68hemi

I don't know but I would rather avoid a warranty claim by heading off a build problem that would cause a claim along with the aggravation of time wasted and time without the enjoyment of having a running car.