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[C2] Headlight Warning Switch Adjustment

 
Old 01-15-2018, 04:37 PM
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woodsdesign
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Default Headlight Warning Switch Adjustment

My headlight warning light started coming on sporadically (when the buckets are up) The light will occasionally come on briefly when driving then kinda fad off. This started happening right after the car was painted so I'm thinking it might be loose or out of adjustment.
Is there an adjustment? The AIM shows it but it is almost unreadable.
Can anyone supply a good drawing. Any other ideas?
Thanks
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Old 01-15-2018, 05:06 PM
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65 Pro Vette
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My guess is the switch came loose. Or the wires came loose. There is no adjustment on the switch itself. The Y stop hits the stop and the switch at the same time.
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Old 01-15-2018, 07:22 PM
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65GGvert
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The switches connect to ground anytime the buckets aren't all the way up and then open when they are. The two switches are in parallel, so if EITHER isn't opening when the doors close to remove the ground the light will come on. I think your first step would be to figure out which one is providing the intermittent ground. You might be able to tell by having someone watch the light for you, turn on the headlights and "wiggle" the buckets one at a time to see which is causing the issue. Then you can check the switch for that side to see if the screws holding it has come loose. It's also possible that the door is moving slightly when you drive causing the flicker. Try gently shaking the side that causes the flicker to see if it's the bucket or the switch. There is only a slight bit of play in the switch holes, so you may have to change the adjustment slightly on the stop.



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Old 01-16-2018, 10:43 AM
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I would bet one of the screws that holds the switch on is missing or broken.
Mark
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Old 01-16-2018, 11:57 AM
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My bet is one of the male wire connection tabs coming off a switch is partially broken off ... ie: hanging on by a thread, which would explain why it works sometime. If you gently jiggle each switch wire connection (the blue covers over the wire ends) and if any one moves or bends easily, you'll need to remove that switch and either solder the wire connection tab on solidly or replace the switch. Be careful installing the wires on these switch tabs as they break easily ... even on brand new switches. Don't ask me how I know this. FWIW. Bill
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Old 01-16-2018, 06:51 PM
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Originally Posted by NightshiftHD View Post
My bet is one of the male wire connection tabs coming off a switch is partially broken off ... ie: hanging on by a thread, which would explain why it works sometime. If you gently jiggle each switch wire connection (the blue covers over the wire ends) and if any one moves or bends easily, you'll need to remove that switch and either solder the wire connection tab on solidly or replace the switch. Be careful installing the wires on these switch tabs as they break easily ... even on brand new switches. Don't ask me how I know this. FWIW. Bill
All that is true EXCEPT that the light wouldn't flicker with a loose connection unless it also had a ground with the headlights full up. You would still have to have the switch not opening when buckets open AND a loose connection to get flicker with the headlights all the way up since the switch contacts would then be open and a loose connection wouldn't matter. My guess is that the switch is just on the very edge of opening and the movement of the car moves the lever enough to activate or deactivate the ground. Still need to find out which headlight switch is causing the problem to troubleshoot.
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Old 01-16-2018, 07:27 PM
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woodsdesign
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I replaced the switches when i restored the car in 2004.
I still have the ones I removed so I can use them for troubleshooting.
It is a pretty simple thing to do since I currently have the hood off. Just a PITA. I can't drive it for another couple of months because of the Cleveland winter.
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Old 01-16-2018, 08:15 PM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert View Post
...My guess is that the switch is just on the very edge of opening and the movement of the car moves the lever enough to activate or deactivate the ground. Still need to find out which headlight switch is causing the problem to troubleshoot.
Having dealt with a similar issue may I suggest that the OP take the advice above.

Dan
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Old 01-16-2018, 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by dplotkin View Post
Having dealt with a similar issue may I suggest that the OP take the advice above.

Dan
That seems logical to me but if that is the case how do I adjust it?
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Old 01-16-2018, 08:46 PM
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Again, first identify that is the problem by opening the buckets fully and them move them slightly with the headlights on and see when the warning light comes on. Do it one at a time to see which side it is. Then on the problem side, loosen the two hex screws in the picture I posted and slide the switch as close to the arm as possible. If still not working correctly, I would turn that large hex bolt that pushes the switch down SLIGHTLY counterclockwise. Not much because that will change how far the bucket goes up also. The more likely correction is moving the switch as close as possible. It won't take much movement at all to make the switch open the contacts enough to work. The other possibility is that the bucket is mechanically loose and when you roll the lights up and then release the switch, the bucket drops back slightly. You should be able to tell that by moving then a little by hand. The bucket will continue to drive as long as you hold the switch, so also just make sure you're holding the switch until it is fully contacted.
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Old 01-16-2018, 09:15 PM
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I've been thinking about this and if the problem started when you put in the new switches, I would sub in an old one first. Aftermarket parts are seldom the same tolerance as original and the button that sticks out or the contact space inside may be enough shorter to not completely open the switch. I'd still determine which side it is, and then try the screws on the switch, then try the original switch.
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Old 01-17-2018, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by 65GGvert View Post
I've been thinking about this and if the problem started when you put in the new switches, I would sub in an old one first. Aftermarket parts are seldom the same tolerance as original and the button that sticks out or the contact space inside may be enough shorter to not completely open the switch. I'd still determine which side it is, and then try the screws on the switch, then try the original switch.
You offer some good advise, 65GGVert. That is what my thought was. The catch is to figure our which side it is.
The switches worked properly for years. I recently got the car painted and also had the cluster out. That is when I first noticed the problem.
However, I don't drive it that much at night so it could have been there for a while and I didn't realize it. I initially thought it was something in the cluster, like a bulb loose in the hole, but I have double checked it and everything is good there. Also, I have Detroit Speed headlight motors if that makes any difference. I have had them for at least 5 years with no issues. Thanks for your input.
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Old 01-17-2018, 10:51 AM
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Originally Posted by woodsdesign View Post
You offer some good advise, 65GGVert. That is what my thought was. The catch is to figure our which side it is.
The switches worked properly for years. I recently got the car painted and also had the cluster out. That is when I first noticed the problem.
However, I don't drive it that much at night so it could have been there for a while and I didn't realize it. I initially thought it was something in the cluster, like a bulb loose in the hole, but I have double checked it and everything is good there. Also, I have Detroit Speed headlight motors if that makes any difference. I have had them for at least 5 years with no issues. Thanks for your input.
Personally with Detroit Speed assy's I'd disconnect the warning switches before I spent a lot of time. I don't think you need the warning light. I do understand if you want it to work, and if you do, now is the time with the hood off.
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