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I’ve been working on removing the front coil springs on a big block 67. The body has never been off and the engine is in the car. The front was sagging like most big blocks do, so I read all the threads about replacing them but this a nightmare. I worked all day yesterday getting it ready to drop both sides today. I finally got one out but for the life of me I can’t get the new one in. I’m using a 1/2 threaded rod to remove and install. I have both sides lose at the ball joints on the spindle, top and bottom. The one I removed, I lowered the spindle from the top ball joint. It has a 12 coil spring so that’s what I’m going back with. I also have a set of HD springs that I’m tempted to use because they might be easier to install since they’re 4” shorter but I’m afraid it might ride harder. I assume the ride height would be the same with either set of springs. Any suggestions or tricks in getting the frigin things in? I’m getting too old for this crap.
Make sure the top of the spring is indexed with the relief in the top of the spring pocket. Typically a floor jack under the control arm will do it but often it is easier to un-bolt the inner pivot cross bar. This allows the spring to line up vertically instead of trying to follow the arc of control arm. Is the upper arm pulled down as far as it will go? You obviously know to be careful with all of that. It can be very dangerous with all the energy a spring has when even partially compressed.
I'm not completely sure of the problem. The standard rate coil springs have to be in a compressed state to install without extraordinary effort and risk. All thread and a good piece of steel plate should be able to pull the spring up enough in the upper pocket to get the lower a-arm over the bottom end of it. The steel plate needs to be high enough on the spring coils it won't bind on the lower a-arm pocket when everything is pulled up and the ball joints secured to the spindle.
Instead of all thread I've been using a standard internal coil spring compressor, but I take it apart, remove the set of sliding hooks, insert the other hooks about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the coil spring (high enough so they don't get trapped in the lower a-arm pocket) and stick the threaded rod portion down through the shock mount hole with a couple of heavy and greased washers and engage it in the threaded block of the hooks. Then crank the spring up until you can get the lower a-arm over the spring bottom and use a jack to help hold it up while you engage the spindle to the ball joints. It takes a bit of maneuvering to get the set of hooks/block back out through the lower a-arm hole after removing the threaded rod (test before hand to make sure it will go through it).
But good quality all thread, well greased with a plate, some heavy washers and a couple nuts will work too.
Last edited by DansYellow66; 11-19-2019 at 07:01 PM.
Make sure the top of the spring is indexed with the relief in the top of the spring pocket. Typically a floor jack under the control arm will do it but often it is easier to un-bolt the inner pivot cross bar. This allows the spring to line up vertically instead of trying to follow the arc of control arm. Is the upper arm pulled down as far as it will go? You obviously know to be careful with all of that. It can be very dangerous with all the energy a spring has when even partially compressed.
I read where that can be done with the inner bar. I was thinking that might work better than what I’ve tried so far. Does the spring still need to be compressed.
I'm not completely sure of the problem. The standard rate coil springs have to be in a compressed state to install without extraordinary effort and risk. All thread and a good piece of steel plate should be able to pull the spring up enough in the upper pocket to get the lower a-arm over the bottom end of it. The steel plate needs to be high enough on the spring coils it won't bind on the lower a-arm pocket when everything is pulled up and the ball joints secured to the spindle.
Instead of all thread I've been using a standard internal coil spring compressor, but I take it apart, remove the set of sliding hooks, insert the other hooks about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the coil spring (high enough so they don't get trapped in the lower a-arm pocket) and stick the threaded rod portion down through the shock mount hole with a couple of heavy and greased washers and engage it in the threaded block of the hooks. Then crank the spring up until you can get the lower a-arm over the spring bottom and use a jack to help hold it up while you engage the spindle to the ball joints. It takes a bit of maneuvering to get the set of hooks/block back out through the lower a-arm hole after removing the threaded rod (test before hand to make sure it will go through it).
But good quality all thread, well greased with a plate, some heavy washers and a couple nuts will work too.
I have the compressor with two hooks but I was trying from the bottom but I couldn’t get the hooks to cooperate. It might be easier from the top but it’s tough getting it through the bottom access hole as you said. I had the plate about a third of the way up from the bottom A frame when compressing but the rod kicks the spring out so it’s impossible to get it in the pocket.
I'm not completely sure of the problem. The standard rate coil springs have to be in a compressed state to install without extraordinary effort and risk. All thread and a good piece of steel plate should be able to pull the spring up enough in the upper pocket to get the lower a-arm over the bottom end of it. The steel plate needs to be high enough on the spring coils it won't bind on the lower a-arm pocket when everything is pulled up and the ball joints secured to the spindle.
Instead of all thread I've been using a standard internal coil spring compressor, but I take it apart, remove the set of sliding hooks, insert the other hooks about 1/3 of the way up from the bottom of the coil spring (high enough so they don't get trapped in the lower a-arm pocket) and stick the threaded rod portion down through the shock mount hole with a couple of heavy and greased washers and engage it in the threaded block of the hooks. Then crank the spring up until you can get the lower a-arm over the spring bottom and use a jack to help hold it up while you engage the spindle to the ball joints. It takes a bit of maneuvering to get the set of hooks/block back out through the lower a-arm hole after removing the threaded rod (test before hand to make sure it will go through it).
But good quality all thread, well greased with a plate, some heavy washers and a couple nuts will work too.
AGREE- the “internal spring compressor “ works very well. Takes some patience to hook it up and align it but then it’s easy. Parts stores have tool loaner programs so use of a relatively specialized tool costs nothing.
Last edited by Tmichaelson; 11-19-2019 at 10:12 PM.
It can look scary with stock springs, as the spring looks like it will jump out! You have to ensure it isn’t going anywhere, with chain, hooks or whatever and just go slow. I have only seen a few try to leave Earth’s atmosphere! An internal compressor is the tool collectors friend. Some parts stores still rent tools!
Last edited by TCracingCA; 11-20-2019 at 01:43 AM.
Yes, the springs tend to curve in one direction or the other as pulled up - but seldom in towards the car's centerline where you would like. I usually had to experiment a little with where to place the hooks around the perimeter to get the spring to pull up pretty straight. Wish I could remember the magic formula but it's probably always going to be a bit of trial and error.
It may be a little late, but I always remove the rotor and the spindle assembly from both control arms and tie rod ends. I have used a threaded rod method for assembly and used the floor jack under the lower control arm method to compress the spring. Lars' has a paper on the process. It is worth a read. If you have gone this far, consider changing the control arm bushings. As mentioned above, properly index the spring in the upper frame pocket. Lastly, be careful. Jerry
11-19-2019, 04:32 PM
Coil spring help
