61 Z Bar looks odd
#21
Le Mans Master
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No, I had someone make me one. I took all of the parts in and they used the measurements to make me a bushing then pressed it in. Its a lot better than what was going on. Also, I went with a heavier duty shoulder bolt than the cheap repro zinc one. Just did not hold up to my clutch foot work.
#22
Race Director
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St. Jude Donor '07
I went to ace hardware and bought a long enough spring, to go from the outer upright zbar arm to a point on the firewall, that will pull the free play at the top of the clutch pedal back against the pedal stop an maintain the gap between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate fingers.
I have picures of what I explained, but I am posting from my iPad. If it's not clear i can post pictures tomorrow
Bill
I have picures of what I explained, but I am posting from my iPad. If it's not clear i can post pictures tomorrow
Bill
#23
Team Owner
The gorilla spring returns the clutch system to its disengaged, stable state...no return spring required. The clutch can not exist in limbo - the spring pulls it to the engaged or dis-engaged position.
Here is the bushing; readily available at Ace Hardware, it may take some add'l washers to center it in the Z-bar. The bushing needs to ride on the original shoulder bolt.
Here is the bushing; readily available at Ace Hardware, it may take some add'l washers to center it in the Z-bar. The bushing needs to ride on the original shoulder bolt.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 02-19-2018 at 06:49 PM.
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jerry gollnick (02-20-2018)
#24
Race Director
Until you get the clutch pedal rod in place, the spring will pull the top bar lever way too far to the rear.
Doug
Doug
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jerry gollnick (02-20-2018)
#25
Race Director
BTW, you will NEVER get the clutch pedal linkage connected with that spring in place, the spring is the LAST thing to go on.
Doug
Doug
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jerry gollnick (02-20-2018)
#26
Race Director
BTW, I I see you are not doing an NCRS thing...
I modified my Z bar by adding part of the old Z bar onto the new one, getting rid of that cantilever pedal rod connection.
Doug
I modified my Z bar by adding part of the old Z bar onto the new one, getting rid of that cantilever pedal rod connection.
Doug
Last edited by AZDoug; 02-20-2018 at 11:26 AM.
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jerry gollnick (02-20-2018)
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jerry gollnick (02-20-2018)
#28
Team Owner
Yup. That’s a problem.
#29
Race Director
It's only part of the problem. I have a wrong, later year clutch fork in my car since 1974. i didn't know it until i "tuned up" my clutch linkage and took all the slop out of it.
With a new Z (modified as previous) Z bar, new bracket, new pedal to Z bar rod,a nd the wrong fork, my Z bar to fork bar was bottomed out on the short side, and just ever so barely was usable without wearing out the TO bearing, any clutch wear would kill the TO bearing.
Rather than take the whole thing apart, trans out, etc., in the car, i shortened the z bar to fork bar 1" ,and welded a sleeve over the two cut ends for strength.
problem solved.
Doug
With a new Z (modified as previous) Z bar, new bracket, new pedal to Z bar rod,a nd the wrong fork, my Z bar to fork bar was bottomed out on the short side, and just ever so barely was usable without wearing out the TO bearing, any clutch wear would kill the TO bearing.
Rather than take the whole thing apart, trans out, etc., in the car, i shortened the z bar to fork bar 1" ,and welded a sleeve over the two cut ends for strength.
problem solved.
Doug
#33
Team Owner
I’d say so.
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jerry gollnick (02-21-2018)
#34
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Congrats Jerry, well done. It takes a village to raise a Corvette!
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jerry gollnick (02-21-2018)