jimh_1962

No, I had someone make me one. I took all of the parts in and they used the measurements to make me a bushing then pressed it in. Its a lot better than what was going on. Also, I went with a heavier duty shoulder bolt than the cheap repro zinc one. Just did not hold up to my clutch foot work.

wmf62

I went to ace hardware and bought a long enough spring, to go from the outer upright zbar arm to a point on the firewall, that will pull the free play at the top of the clutch pedal back against the pedal stop an maintain the gap between the throw out bearing and the pressure plate fingers.

I have picures of what I explained, but I am posting from my iPad. If it's not clear i can post pictures tomorrow

Bill

Frankie the Fink

The gorilla spring returns the clutch system to its disengaged, stable state...no return spring required. The clutch can not exist in limbo - the spring pulls it to the engaged or dis-engaged position.

Here is the bushing; readily available at Ace Hardware, it may take some add'l washers to center it in the Z-bar. The bushing needs to ride on the original shoulder bolt.

AZDoug

Until you get the clutch pedal rod in place, the spring will pull the top bar lever way too far to the rear.
Doug

AZDoug

BTW, you will NEVER get the clutch pedal linkage connected with that spring in place, the spring is the LAST thing to go on.

Doug

AZDoug

BTW, I I see you are not doing an NCRS thing...

I modified my Z bar by adding part of the old Z bar onto the new one, getting rid of that cantilever pedal rod connection.

Doug

rich5962

Jerry you have a 64-81 clutch fork. This is why the Z bar geometry was off. The 62 fork end is ~90* at the pivot pin.

Rich

top 64-81, bottom 55-62

Frankie the Fink

AZDoug

It's only part of the problem. I have a wrong, later year clutch fork in my car since 1974. i didn't know it until i "tuned up" my clutch linkage and took all the slop out of it.

With a new Z (modified as previous) Z bar, new bracket, new pedal to Z bar rod,a nd the wrong fork, my Z bar to fork bar was bottomed out on the short side, and just ever so barely was usable without wearing out the TO bearing, any clutch wear would kill the TO bearing.

Rather than take the whole thing apart, trans out, etc., in the car, i shortened the z bar to fork bar 1" ,and welded a sleeve over the two cut ends for strength.
problem solved.

Doug

jerry gollnick

WOW GOOD CATCH! Thank you. A lot easier to change it now. You guys area wealth of knowledge and experience.

jerry gollnick

Heading out to my shop to change clutch arm. it's 5 below zero out this morning but my shop is 70 degrees. I'll post an "after" Photo to illustrate difference. Jerry

jerry gollnick

Ok, changing clutch form to C1 as it should be was an all day project. I did take a few coffee breaks and a nice lunch. Does this look more like what you expect to see?

Frankie the Fink

Kerrmudgeon

Congrats Jerry, well done. It takes a village to raise a Corvette!