Front window channel run replacement, '63 Conv.
#1
Advanced
Thread Starter
Front window channel run replacement, '63 Conv.
Today I removed the channel, by simply drilling out the two lower rivets.
Was a little surprised to see the top section was secured only by what looks like the tips of vent window weatherstripping, but it obviously worked for for decades.
One supplier's catalog is very upfront and advises that the replacement piece is "slightly different than original but is a very functional reproduction?
Haven't contacted the supplier for details, just wondering if any of you guys have had experiences with this particular part?
Any info greatly appreciated.
Bill.
Was a little surprised to see the top section was secured only by what looks like the tips of vent window weatherstripping, but it obviously worked for for decades.
One supplier's catalog is very upfront and advises that the replacement piece is "slightly different than original but is a very functional reproduction?
Haven't contacted the supplier for details, just wondering if any of you guys have had experiences with this particular part?
Any info greatly appreciated.
Bill.
#2
Drifting
window
Yes, the reproduction front window channel has small metal tabs that are too short to hook and bend in place to retain it into the vent window assembly. I conceal a stiff metal wire, similar to an A arm flap staple, inside the fuzzy and use that to bend into the assembly and crimp it together. I cant really explain it, as you have to do it all like a sandwich....if you just put it in, the fuzzy will pop out when window is fown. Glue does not work either.
#3
Advanced
Thread Starter
Staple idea
Yes, the reproduction front window channel has small metal tabs that are too short to hook and bend in place to retain it into the vent window assembly. I conceal a stiff metal wire, similar to an A arm flap staple, inside the fuzzy and use that to bend into the assembly and crimp it together. I cant really explain it, as you have to do it all like a sandwich....if you just put it in, the fuzzy will pop out when window is fown. Glue does not work either.
I was also wondering if I made up a little tab extending up and under the upper stop screw, if that might help the cause?
Bill.
#4
Drifting
Bill
I think you'll find the 'slightly different than original' disclaimer is referring to the arc & bends of the repro U-channel assembly. You may, indeed, be able to fight it in place by tweaking; I was not.
If the original stainless beads on your U-channel are presentable, removing the old, worn out 'fuzzy' and replacing it with 1" wide hook velcro works well. 1" is the exact dimension required to fill the U. It also exposes the attaching clips on the aft piece of vent window wx-strip seal, allowing you to secure same. Some photos below; 3rd pic shows a wooden dowel fitted to velcro for overnight adhesive curing. Use a good quality strip (ie, McMaster-Carr or similar vendor), not fabric store stuff.
Jeff
I think you'll find the 'slightly different than original' disclaimer is referring to the arc & bends of the repro U-channel assembly. You may, indeed, be able to fight it in place by tweaking; I was not.
If the original stainless beads on your U-channel are presentable, removing the old, worn out 'fuzzy' and replacing it with 1" wide hook velcro works well. 1" is the exact dimension required to fill the U. It also exposes the attaching clips on the aft piece of vent window wx-strip seal, allowing you to secure same. Some photos below; 3rd pic shows a wooden dowel fitted to velcro for overnight adhesive curing. Use a good quality strip (ie, McMaster-Carr or similar vendor), not fabric store stuff.
Jeff
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#5
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Thread Starter
[QUOTE=vark_wso;1596643737]Bill
I think you'll find the 'slightly different than original' disclaimer is referring to the arc & bends of the repro U-channel assembly. You may, indeed, be able to fight it in place by tweaking; I was not.
If the original stainless beads on your U-channel are presentable, removing the old, worn out 'fuzzy' and replacing it with 1" wide hook velcro works well. 1" is the exact dimension required to fill the U. It also exposes the attaching clips on the aft piece of vent window wx-strip seal, allowing you to secure same. Some photos below; 3rd pic shows a wooden dowel fitted to velcro for overnight adhesive curing. Use a good quality strip (ie, McMaster-Carr or similar vendor), not fabric store stuff.
Jeff,
Thank you for your efforts to present the excellent tutorial.
.I had suspected that the curvature might be an issue in the ropro version.
My channels are in perfect condition, and it bothered me to contemplate discarding them for he sake of some worn fabric.
The same procedure could also be used to re-vitalize the rear channel, although I see material offered reasonably for this purpose.
I will be pursuing your technique.
Regards, Bill.
I think you'll find the 'slightly different than original' disclaimer is referring to the arc & bends of the repro U-channel assembly. You may, indeed, be able to fight it in place by tweaking; I was not.
If the original stainless beads on your U-channel are presentable, removing the old, worn out 'fuzzy' and replacing it with 1" wide hook velcro works well. 1" is the exact dimension required to fill the U. It also exposes the attaching clips on the aft piece of vent window wx-strip seal, allowing you to secure same. Some photos below; 3rd pic shows a wooden dowel fitted to velcro for overnight adhesive curing. Use a good quality strip (ie, McMaster-Carr or similar vendor), not fabric store stuff.
Jeff,
Thank you for your efforts to present the excellent tutorial.
.I had suspected that the curvature might be an issue in the ropro version.
My channels are in perfect condition, and it bothered me to contemplate discarding them for he sake of some worn fabric.
The same procedure could also be used to re-vitalize the rear channel, although I see material offered reasonably for this purpose.
I will be pursuing your technique.
Regards, Bill.