Skydude66

66' Holley acting up. Have adjusted the floats and idle screws but still having problems. Trying to decide whether to buy a new carb or have mine rebuilt. If I decide to replace it with a new one, any suggestions on what to get? Car is a 327/300hp. Thanks.

Skydude

Bluestripe67

I'm not running a Holley, but I will suggest you do a search here on the CF. Holley carbs have been well discussed about rebuild, sources for the work and replacement Holleys. Dennis

emdoller

If it were me, I’d get it rebuilt. I did this a few years ago and haven’t had an issue.

Ed

provette67

Is the carb the original dated to the car?

GTOguy

I'd rebuild it. Have you priced a new Holley lately? I've paid less for entire engines.

John BX NY

Wrestling with the same issue on my 67 L79. I was thinking about getting a new Holley 600 ($300) to run until i figure it out. Brand new 3810 is over $700.

Is there an easy way to get fittings to adapt the steel fuel line on a 67 to a new Holley ?

Skydude66

Yes it is the original carb.

Nowhere Man

Get it rebuilt and restored by the right shop and your be good to go. I have had good luck with Custom rebuilt carbs in NJ. There are others who do just as well

R66

Sometime the carb is blamed for the electrical problems. Make sure you are correcting the right problem.

If you have the original carb, it was built for the engine. A new generic Holley may not come with the correct choke and fuel line configurations requiring modifications to your systems. Also, the new carb will have to be tuned to your engine, possible jet and power valve changes, etc.

I would spend the money to have it rebuilt, if you can't rebuild it yourself. It is not a difficult task if you buy the Holley service manual and pay attention to detail.

Nowhere Man

If there is mismatched parts and warped parts in the carb from 50 years of people messing with it a simple rebuild won’t fix nothing. But cause more problems.

boxster99t

You're correct about a new generic Holley--in my case, the carb on my 67 300/350 HP wasn't original to the car as it had a date code from late 66 and my car was built in May 67. To further complicate matters the issue with that carb was an intermittent whistle that drove me nuts. While I could have rebuilt it, it wasn't going to be cheap or fast. I bought a new carb from LIC, and it was exactly like the one I had, brand new Holley match to the original 3810 except no date code. Adjusted it per the service manual (which is very easy) and runs great, whistle solved.

If you look, market value for a "junk" but proper date coded Holley goes for a ton of money and they're not functional/need to be rebuilt, plus there's the turn time on a rebuild. If I care about the money, anytime I wish I can sell Holley I removed and have less net out-of-pocket than a rebuild would have been assuming that the whistle was moderate warping to the base that can be fixed.

It was 4 years ago and around $600 new for the carb. There's a California outfit that "sells" junk Holleys for these cars at $500 for those that are hunting date code correct carbs for top flight, etc.

If originality is important, then rebuild an original, as the OP should do.

Just wanted to throw this out there for those who are in my situation: non-original to the car carb, wanted something that was simple bolt on with no changes, and not wanting to send a carb away and wait to get it back.