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I run the ethanol mix because pure gas is not available in the state I live in. When running pure gas, my old cars get better fuel mileage and run better. Ethanol has about 50% of the energy of gasoline, so it causes your engine to run leaner if it is calibrated (jetted) for regular pure fuel. This can cause detonation and lean surge issues. If you have the choice, with ANY vehicle, run pure gas. You will get better fuel mileage at the minimum.
my documented mpg in my 10,000 mile trip out west using E and non-E back-to-back on the interstates indicated MAYBE a mile mpg better; but not enough to be noteworthy.
my documented mpg in my 10,000 mile trip out west using E and non-E back-to-back on the interstates indicated MAYBE a mile mpg better; but not enough to be noteworthy.
but, that's me...
Bill
btw, we now have E15 here at places in Florida...
There is less energy in the ethanol but it's only in a 10% concentration of the 100% fuel. Experts say 2% fuel consumption loss. I don't know, I'm no expert but I can count money.
Straight gasoline of equivalent E 10 octane here runs $.30-$.60/gallon higher than E 10. I'm not running a race car so I don't have to fuel up with the high powered, expensive stuff.
Ethanol tends to draw moisture, and pure gas draws less. This isn't an issue for E10 in a regularly driven car, but in seldom used, often stored cars it is an issue in my experience.
This is a good explanation from the AMSOIL website:
ECHO warns that ethanol will absorb a small amount of moisture and stay in suspension within the gasoline for a while. However, the ethanol will only absorb up to ¾ of an ounce of water in a gallon of gas before it reaches its saturation point. Once the ethanol has absorbed enough moisture to reach its saturation point, phase separation occurs. Phase separation means the ethanol and absorbed water drop to the bottom of the fuel container since it is heavier than the gas and oil, leaving the gasoline and oil mix to float on top of the tank. Most operators never notice water in the can when they refuel their equipment. The end result is often a carburetor ruined with rust and corrosion. These expensive repairs can cost more than $75 and are not typically covered by warranty.
Stihl stresses that the layer of gasoline left floating on top has a lower octane level than the original ethanol-gasoline blend, which can result in unstable engine operation, power loss and major engine failures.
Ethanol’s affinity for water explains why so many ethanol-related problems surface in the marine industry. In fact, some marina personnel say up to 65 percent of their service orders are attributable to fuel-system problems.
This got me thinking about additives to possibly combat potential problems with ethanol gas. Y'all might find this interesting (good video embedded in link as well ): https://www.bellperformance.com/blog...moval-additive
Tom
no minds are going to be changed by this thread, but consider this...
water is the evil genie in this concoction; what makes you think that water is not a problem with NonE, or even leaded?? my experience with all of the above is... water is everywhere..
as said before, water can be in any tank, in your car, etc or in the underground tanks...
I remember when they used to 'stick' tanks to get amount of fuel in the underground tanks and they used an indicator paste on the bottom section of the stick to tell the amount of water in the bottom, and every time I saw it done there was water..
so, do whatever you feel is best; but no one's mind is going to be changed.
Bill
So, how's this coming out so far. 31 posts and nobody has changed their mind or even asked a question to initiate discussion!
Nobody even acknowledges that water can get in to straight gas. That water, sooner or later, always got in gasoline and caused corrosion problems whether it was E 10 or not.
Blaming E 10 for the end of the world is a nice crutch for some that work on engines that need an excuse.
Mike, the OP asked if he should run E-10 in a vintage carbureted 327 and I told him there was no upside to it, just loss of efficiency. I call that an answer. Certainly the only good that can come from running diluted gas is the cheaper purchase price. It is in all ways inferior to regular, pure gasoline, in my experience. Some of my old cars don't mind it, others can't stand it. YMMV.......
Mike, the OP asked if he should run E-10 in a vintage carbureted 327 and I told him there was no upside to it, just loss of efficiency. ....
My comment was about those that might change their mind. Not whether there were any answers or not.
If the question were asked slightly different, such as, "is there any reason I shoudn't run E 10", the answer could be there is no down side to it. In fact the upside is much cheaper purchase price, cleaner fuel system, cleaner burning. Don't need to worry about water in the gas as long as the gas you put in doesn't have water in it.
Now if I was a racer boy, I'd want straight gasoline. But I don't expect to change anyone's mind.
The comments about the small engine repairs don't have a lot of merit. That's been going on since there's been small engines with whatever kind of gasoline was run through them.
But I don't expect to change anyone's mind.
Here is the original query:
What I want to know is, if you had the choice of ethanol or non-ethanol, which would you select for your C2 original 327?
In the Chicago area, there is only ethanol-added gasoline. Even the 100 octane "race fuel" sold at my local Citgo is indicated as up to 10% ethanol.
I had the tripower Holleys on both my cars open many times in the last 10 years, and they were always as clean internally as if they just came out of a solvent tank. I can't tell any performance difference, either.
The one thing I can say with certainty, is that gas that sits in a snowblower or mower for months without use (i.e., ever piece of power equipment we have), WILL NOT run unless I drain and refill with fresh fuel before use again. I have no idea if this is due to ethanol content or another change in the formulation of gasoline, but it has no shelf life anymore. The gasoline I drain out of a tractor after sitting 6 months just doesn't burn nowadays. (Stabil has no impact on this phenomenon, so I stopped using it a couple years ago.)
I have a low mile '97 T-Bird that I am "saving". When I quit driving it five years ago, It had a half tank of gas in it. Every once in (great) awhile, I have occasion to start it up and move it a few feet. Always starts right up. Always idles okay. I'm starting to get a little nervous though.
2001 Escort SR. Hot rod model. Takes premium fuel. I bought it to drive when gas was $4.00+/gal. It get's about 35 mpg. Gas went down to $2.00/gal and I quit driving it with about a half tank of gas in it. That's been 3-4 years ago? Starts, runs but you can tell the edge is gone. Added new gas and it's perfect.
1993 Festiva. I bought it to drive while gas was $4.00/gal +. Parked it 3-4 years ago. It starts and runs fine after sitting all that time.
'70 Nova 396/375. I restored the car about ten years ago. Put enough gas in it to drive to a cruise and back and been parked ever since. It still starts/runs on that old gas.
All that gasoline mentioned is E 10. Your results may vary.
I have a low mile '97 T-Bird that I am "saving". When I quit driving it five years ago, It had a half tank of gas in it. Every once in (great) awhile, I have occasion to start it up and move it a few feet. Always starts right up. Always idles okay. I'm starting to get a little nervous though.
2001 Escort SR. Hot rod model. Takes premium fuel. I bought it to drive when gas was $4.00+/gal. It get's about 35 mpg. Gas went down to $2.00/gal and I quit driving it with about a half tank of gas in it. That's been 3-4 years ago? Starts, runs but you can tell the edge is gone. Added new gas and it's perfect.
1993 Festiva. I bought it to drive while gas was $4.00/gal +. Parked it 3-4 years ago. It starts and runs fine after sitting all that time.
All that gasoline mentioned is E 10. Your results may vary.
In my experience, almost any Ford made from the advent of electronic port injection in the late 1980's through the 2000's, will start regardless of the quality of fuel in it. I exclusively drove Ford's daily from when I started driving until about 10 years ago, and I never had a fuel system problem. My 89 Mustang 5.0 starts and runs great after sitting all winter with old fuel, and every piece of that car is factory installed except filters, belts, and the motor mounts.
Use non-ethanol......for reasons noted above related to fuel and carb systems in older cars.....we have it in premium here in East TN. My 2008 Corvette...just use Costco premium (Top Tier gas); its made to deal with ethanol gas.
03-20-2018, 03:51 PM
