66 ignition/accessory connection
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
66 ignition/accessory connection
Ok,
so out of the blue yesterday, my turn signals, heater, and the 12v lead to the voltage regulator all stopped working -
under the dash i found a single stray connector - that i assumed simply came out of the ignition switch - under no circumstances can I get this sob to plug into the plastic harnes that connects to the ignition switch - so it MUST go somewhere- when i just 12v to it - everything comes back working properly.
any guesses?
looks like it was hanging near the e-brake handle... so i'm gonna go back and look to see if there is a loose lead or something..
fwiw - when i turn the ignition to the on position - the only thing that works as it should is the blinking brake light - so....does the accessory lead really run through the e-brake switch?
cheers
Aaron
so out of the blue yesterday, my turn signals, heater, and the 12v lead to the voltage regulator all stopped working -
under the dash i found a single stray connector - that i assumed simply came out of the ignition switch - under no circumstances can I get this sob to plug into the plastic harnes that connects to the ignition switch - so it MUST go somewhere- when i just 12v to it - everything comes back working properly.
any guesses?
looks like it was hanging near the e-brake handle... so i'm gonna go back and look to see if there is a loose lead or something..
fwiw - when i turn the ignition to the on position - the only thing that works as it should is the blinking brake light - so....does the accessory lead really run through the e-brake switch?
cheers
Aaron
Last edited by aaronz28; 03-20-2018 at 12:38 PM.
#2
Team Owner
Member Since: Feb 2003
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Do you have a picture
#3
Team Owner
Or at least the color of the wires that go to it.
This stuff is why I have the Dr. Rebuild pictorial schematics...
This stuff is why I have the Dr. Rebuild pictorial schematics...
#5
Drifting
Thread Starter
added the photo to the op -
and confirmed that it will not fit in any of the open plugs on the ignition switch - which seems to be the obvious place it should go....
to confirm, once I put 12v to that wire- the heater(blower motor), wipers, turn signals, etc. all come back online.
havn't started it yet - but i suspect it will also send the corret voltage over to the VR as well so the battery charges again.
#6
Drifting
Thread Starter
added the photo to the op -
and confirmed that it will not fit in any of the open plugs on the ignition switch - which seems to be the obvious place it should go....
to confirm, once I put 12v to that wire- the heater(blower motor), wipers, turn signals, etc. all come back online.
havn't started it yet - but i suspect it will also send the corret voltage over to the VR as well so the battery charges again.
and confirmed that it will not fit in any of the open plugs on the ignition switch - which seems to be the obvious place it should go....
to confirm, once I put 12v to that wire- the heater(blower motor), wipers, turn signals, etc. all come back online.
havn't started it yet - but i suspect it will also send the corret voltage over to the VR as well so the battery charges again.
after looking through several images - that brown wire appears to go to a radio capacitor - which on my radio delete car - is non existant- - -
and would make sense that putting 12v to it powers the rest of the things that would come on when you tun the switch to the accessory or on position...
in this case - i'm just not getting 12v back to the fuse block for the accessory things - wondering if the ignition switch just took a dump.... will find out shortly.
#7
Team Owner
The b/u light and the park brake warning light only work in "run" position. This is the wire you need for those acc item you have that aren't working to work:
Last edited by 65GGvert; 03-20-2018 at 12:37 PM.
#8
Team Owner
And it goes here:
Do you already have a brown wire in that position on the ignition plug? If so, measure for 12v on the brown wire with the key on or in acc. If the voltage isn't there, you may have a bad ignition switch. If you do have it at that connection, you have a wire off or open between the switch and the junction with the other brown wires. The brown wire in the ignition switch connector may be pushed out of the plug a little or loose or corroded.
Do you already have a brown wire in that position on the ignition plug? If so, measure for 12v on the brown wire with the key on or in acc. If the voltage isn't there, you may have a bad ignition switch. If you do have it at that connection, you have a wire off or open between the switch and the junction with the other brown wires. The brown wire in the ignition switch connector may be pushed out of the plug a little or loose or corroded.
Last edited by 65GGvert; 03-20-2018 at 12:36 PM.
#9
Drifting
Thread Starter
solved it -
it was actually the acc wire coming off the switch - some bubba put a scotch lock on it - for some reason.. and that finally gave out...
it was actually the acc wire coming off the switch - some bubba put a scotch lock on it - for some reason.. and that finally gave out...