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Brother's 67 Convertible

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Old 04-12-2018, 10:29 AM
  #101  
emdoller
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Originally Posted by elwood13
Thanks guys. Would the jump pack connected to the cables be sufficient or should I just get a battery? Like Pat said, I don't think I can wait years to get started on this and I'm leaning to just get it driving soon and do the restoration later.
if it’s a decent jump pack, it should be fine.

Ed
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elwood13 (04-12-2018)
Old 04-12-2018, 10:39 AM
  #102  
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the jump pack might work, but getting a battery is cheap enough, and I would want to clean up the cables so I have a solid connection.
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elwood13 (04-12-2018)
Old 04-12-2018, 12:11 PM
  #103  
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Well I now know why you do the passenger headlight by hand. The motor is missing. I'm wondering if my brother took it off to repair it (I remember him saying when I was younger that it was broken) or if the car was wrecked and they just didn't put it on. My wife keeps asking me why someone would pull the big block and the big block hood and I have no clue either because people do what they like. On the remaining motor there is a wire hanging off, but I can't see the prong it that it connects.


Last edited by elwood13; 04-12-2018 at 12:12 PM. Reason: Move picture
Old 04-12-2018, 12:17 PM
  #104  
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Originally Posted by elwood13
On the remaining motor there is a wire hanging off, but I can't see the prong it that it connects.
It connects to the limit switch which turns the "Lights" off on the cluster when both headlight buckets are fully open or closed. Bill
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Last edited by NightshiftHD; 04-12-2018 at 12:18 PM.
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Old 04-12-2018, 12:20 PM
  #105  
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the tab on those switched are not very strong, they can bend and break of easily. or it may simply have fallen off.
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elwood13 (04-12-2018)
Old 04-12-2018, 12:22 PM
  #106  
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I don't see the tab so its probably broken off and you'll need a new switch. Bill
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elwood13 (04-12-2018)
Old 04-12-2018, 12:24 PM
  #107  
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Thanks Bill. Does it need to be connected for them to open/close? Also, on the pass side, I'm guessing the big plug would go to the light motor if it was there but what is the single wire with the loop connector?

Old 04-12-2018, 12:26 PM
  #108  
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Originally Posted by elwood13
Thanks Bill. Does it need to be connected for them to open/close? Also, on the pass side, I'm guessing the big plug would go to the light motor if it was there but what is the single wire with the loop connector?
The limit switches on each side have nothing to do with the motor operation ... they simply turn the dash warning light on whenever either of them is not fully open or fully closed.

That plug would be for the other headlight motor, and the single wire with the eyelet is the ground which attaches to the motor. Bill

Last edited by NightshiftHD; 04-12-2018 at 12:27 PM.
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elwood13 (04-12-2018)
Old 04-12-2018, 12:31 PM
  #109  
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no its not needed to operate the headlight motor itself, its a limiting switch that tells you via the headlight lamp on the dash weather the headlights are open or closed, when they are open and the headlights are on the light goes out when they are closed and the lights are on the lamp on the dashboard flashes headlights. reminding you to shut off the headlights.
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elwood13 (04-12-2018)
Old 04-12-2018, 02:39 PM
  #110  
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Well, that was interesting. Had the son standing by with the fire extinguisher and the cables hooked to the jump pack. He flipped the power on and I went to move the headlight switch (which was not connected to the dash) and the switch moved funny. Went to move it one way and didn't really move so I went the opposite way and heard a sizzle sound. Had him shut the power real quick and looked and smelled for smoke. Nothing. Unplugged the switch very carefully and noticed the black plastic on the switch was buckled and cracked. Took that apart and found one of the contacts closed. Guess when I went the other direction with the switch I closed both contacts. As memories come back, I remember my brother complaining about using the spinning wheel on the other light so he may have just removed the motor. I had the son see if he could spin the wheel on the other and its froze shut. He then disconnected the clip and removed the strap holding the motor and tried to slide it out, but it doesn't budge. The chassis manual said something about rotating the wheel till you feel resistance and then back off 6 turns. Does that need to be done for removal or is something else holding it in besides the that cotter pin looking clip?

On a side note, the headlights and tail lights work but not the horn.
Old 04-12-2018, 04:22 PM
  #111  
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After soaking the wheel in penetration oil, son put a small pair of vice grips on the wheel and was able to turn it. Would not turn by hand, but easy with vice grips. Made a couple revolutions and out popped the motor. No more winking front.
Old 04-13-2018, 01:34 PM
  #112  
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Found the guy who my brother bought the car from and just got off the phone with him. Turns out he was friend's with my brother's best friend. He stated he bought the car from a car lot in 1976 for about $2000 and it had a 327 then. Said it kept blowing the right side head gasket and was missing the passenger side headlight motor. Guess I am at a dead end as the used car lot is gone now. At least I know why the headlight motor is gone. Maybe my memory is not as good or he had to spin the driver side because the switch was messed up.

Last edited by elwood13; 04-13-2018 at 01:36 PM.
Old 04-13-2018, 04:34 PM
  #113  
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Really enjoy reading your about your questions and discoveries. I wish I could have spoken with former owners of project cars like this! Keep it coming.
Old 04-13-2018, 06:19 PM
  #114  
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Think the standard BB front sway bar is 7/8”. F41 suspension option is 15/16”. Sure smelling like a BB car that lost its stinger hood in the accident. Great connection to your brother. I’d be tempted to find a 427 and stinger eventually. I’ll be following. Enjoy.
Old 04-13-2018, 06:43 PM
  #115  
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Thanks guys. Actually was pricing 427's and hoods last night. Ouch. Maybe one day but for now I just want to get it driving. Hope to have a check list of the bare necessities to get it that way and have y'all tell me what I forgot or can pass on for now by Sunday.
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Old 04-13-2018, 07:24 PM
  #116  
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elwood13, I tend to think of fixing thing from the ground up where possible. Tires, brakes, suspension, engine/drivetrain, and electrical. Cosmetics can come along later. Dennis
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Old 04-13-2018, 08:31 PM
  #117  
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Sorry for your loss Elwood, but happy for your gain. As much as we all like these cars, they are just things. I think what really ties us to them is the history behind them. You are fortunate to be able to recall memories with your brother and make some new ones with your son. Best of luck on this very cool project.

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To Brother's 67 Convertible

Old 04-13-2018, 10:50 PM
  #118  
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Thanks Dennis and vettevt. I think I have everything major listed out that this noob can think of to get her safely driving. I know there will be some small things, lights, wiper blades etc. I may have some parts that are fine and I am just not giving them credit because of age or everything may be bad. Please let me know what I missed, cause I'm sure I did. Also, the books I listed on page 4, there is a 68 manual that I don't think I need. If someone needs it let me know and I will send it to you. Warning, it smells like old books. If I understand the forum rules correctly, I can ask about part brands but be careful about vendors, correct?

Change all fluids

Radiator – Cleaned / New hoses and T-stat

Carb – Rebuild or replace

New plugs / wires

New beltsMotor – complete go through or start and see what happens (I lean to complete tear down) New correct oil pan

Clutch – Replace? Do they go bad sitting?

Brakes – New Master cylinder, lines, calipers, pads

Tires – New

Fuel tank – New (old one is patched and rusty inside)

Wiring harness – test first before replace or just replace



Front End:

Replace upper/lower control arm bushings

Replace sway bar bushings

Replace ball joints

Replace tie rod ends

Idler arm

Pitman arm

Relay rod – keep or replace

Wheel bearings – New

Shocks - New

Rag Joint ?

Steering box – clean and redo


Rear End:

New Shocks

Replace Strut rod bushings

Replace Control arm bushings

Replace Rear stabilizer bushings

Axle shaft U-Joints – New

Drive shaft U-Joints – New

Rear wheel bearings – New

Rear end – New seals or complete go through

Transmission – New seals or complete go through

Rear spring liners – replace or leave alone



BodyNew seat belts – only have half a seat. Wife wants shoulder beltsWife wants headrest seats – I have to research if that can be added to existing or buy complete Side window weather stripping

In addition to the manuals on page 4, from what I have searched here, I still need an AIM manual, Noland Adams Resto book and maybe an NCRS manual. Anything else I missed?

Thanks in advance
Old 04-14-2018, 03:02 AM
  #119  
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Well now...
"Wife wants shoulder belts Wife wants headrest seats"
Sounds like she's coming around to your way of thinking...things are looking up...
Great story and enjoy this with your family,
Chris
Old 04-14-2018, 01:01 PM
  #120  
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Looking at the date code on the plexiglass of the hardtop I have a E-E. If I researched correctly does that mean May 65? If so, do I have a 65 top or just 65 plexiglass? We're gonna remove the moldy headliner today. When I spoke to the previous owner he stated that this was a "true" convertible because it had a hard top and not a soft top. I chuckled to myself as I thought a convertible was convertible, unless I'm missing something.

Last edited by elwood13; 04-14-2018 at 01:02 PM.


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