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Got my strap wrench today and immediately had to go see if the crank will turn. Couldn't get it to work on the balancer due to the timing mark gauge so I used the pulley because the strap fit perfect over it. Not sure if it was the right thing to do but I did it anyway. Well she turned. I could only go about an inch before stuff got in the way of the wrench. I think I moved it about four or five times and then it got a tight to turn or the strap was losing leverage so I stopped. Plugs were out by the way. After I get the keys next week do you think it would be a bad idea just to crank her up and see if she starts? If its okay, I plan to change the oil, get a drill prime rod to prime the motor, rebuild the carb and run a new line from the pump to a gas can since the rusty tank is out as well as new line from pump to carb. Here are a few new pics from inside. The first three are of no 5 cylinder.
I don't expect it to run perfect, just she if she runs after sitting 32 years. Here are some carb pics and the model number off the original box. Would just a Holley refresh kit be enough for testing purposes?
Don't overthink it. Change the oil, crank it with the coil disconnected on ten-count intervals a few times, hook it up and fire it off.
Yes, rebuild the carb first. Use a gallon of carb cleaner with the basket to soak the metering blocks etc. or borrow a known good carb.
If you onlu want to fire it for a moment I would use a spray bottle of fuel down the throats but first clean the carb of old fuel and disconnect the fuel line. You don't want old fuel varnished and sitting on your intake valves. Speaking from experience.
Thanks Chattanooga. I due tend to overthink to much for my own good sometimes. Did you think the walls look okay?. Picked up a new 10lb and 5lb to go with the other 5lb extinguisher today. The old 5lb needs to be serviced anyway so the new 5 goes in the kitchen pantry and 10 in the garage.
Squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders, butnot too much and let it sit a day or two. Then crank it over some to spread the stuff around the cylinders. Dennis
Probably not a bad idea to put a little mystery oil in each cylinder and then try hand cranking it. It will prevent damage from the rings on the dry cylinder walls, and also turn easier.
Ray
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Originally Posted by Bluestripe67
Squirt some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders, butnot too much and let it sit a day or two. Then crank it over some to spread the stuff around the cylinders. Dennis
OP used 10w-30....I don't have Marvel, is PB Blaster an acceptable substitute or would I be better with 10w-whatever?
The piston in the first picture appears to have had some damage to the piston head. Maybe it is light off your camera but it looks like pock marks to me.
Those also look like Sealed Power Pistons not the TRW design OEM pistons.
Could you find any markings, like 30 or .030 on the piston heads?
Thanks Chattanooga. I due tend to overthink to much for my own good sometimes. Did you think the walls look okay?. Picked up a new 10lb and 5lb to go with the other 5lb extinguisher today. The old 5lb needs to be serviced anyway so the new 5 goes in the kitchen pantry and 10 in the garage.
i think the walls look ok. a little mystery oil or motor oil on the cylinders is certainly not going to hurt as you've been advised.
Westlotorn, I'm sure they are not original pistons as this motor supposedly was punched 60 over in 1978 and have no idea what was used. I will try and look for some numbers tomorrow as the car is covered up right now for the all day rain we are expecting. I'm not sure what that stuff is on the top of the pistons but most if not all have some. Looks like some kind of fluid was there at some point and just sat there doing its thing for 30 years.
RRman. I had a tube that screwed on an oil bottle and tried to squeeze it up in there. I think it just went in and settled at the lowest part. I read somewhere on the internet that marvel oil came in an aerosol but I can't find it for sale.
Chattanooga, going to get the keys next week and depending when I get back, maybe start her next Sunday. Need to get a battery and check some loose wires under the hood.
I tried to take some better pics of the pistons today. For some reason I can only get the crank to move just a little with my strap wrench. I found I have one clean piston in no 8 and all the rest have that crud stuff on them. I found some markings on 8 but can't quite make them out. Also noticed on no 3, which is up, it appears the piston is just above the spark plug hole. Not sure if it is the camera angle or it really is there. Is that normal?
No 8
No 6
No 4
No 7
No 5
No 1
No 3
Forgot to add the piston markings
Here are the numbers on the water pump I just got to.
Wife asked me if this motor was a fast motor or like a Toyota corolla and that she wants leather, wood steering wheel and big block hood. And to think she was the one complaining about spending money on this car. Looks like I'm going to be working overtime for a while instead of working on the car.
Here are a couple more pics of that nose emblem holes.
Upon further inspection, all the glass pieces have different date codes. Is that normal? I got to thinking about the hood and engine. Do you think maybe they had an engine fire that only damaged the hood and engine and that's why they are replaced?
Elwood, I’ve started a few old engines fwiw, and while a tear down is desirable, you may get away without it - for a while. If this were mine to start, I’d stop by a marine store and get an aerosol can of engine fogging oil. OMC markets one. Fog each cyl. With fresh engine oil and filter, turn the engine several turns, then fog again with the pistons at different locations. You can turn easier from the flywheel. Assuming no issues, spin with the starter till you get oil pressure. Remove the valve covers and see if you have oil. If yes. Over oil the springs, rockers, and down the pushrods generously. Fill with coolant and pressure test. If it holds, install the plugs and a fuel source and with safety precautions taken, siuch as fire ext., start it up. Do it outside as success will create a lot of smoke. Give it a bit running while watching and listening for clues then raise the revs. Get it fully warmed checking for leaks. My main concern would be head gasket. Take a feeler gage and measure between the head and block. If 0.030 range, your chances improve over a 0.017 measurement. Good luck.
It sure does look like there is a lot of deterioration on the tops of most cylinders. And if it's already bored 060 over, you definitely don't want to cause any damage to the cylinder walls.
All in all though, you may just want to keep an eye out for another small block. Preferably one that hasn't been bored yet, but that may be difficult to find.
Thanks guys. As much as I really want to start this thing, I think I'm just going to take it apart. What concerns me is I could move the crank an inch at time for several times till it stopped on Friday. I sprayed stabil engine fogging oil and today it only moves exactly one inch either direction and I can't get it to move anymore than that. Feels like something is binding. Guess it's better to be safe and have something that is still usable than a new boat anchor.
On a side note I found a pic of a 63 with emblem off and the holes on that one look molded. Mine look home made. I know that blue on the hood is shiny in the sun.
04-20-2018, 05:19 PM
Dennis
