hcallaway

When I was cutting out other chassis bolts in the cab, I noticed the sparks trying to ignite the carpet. I used license plates to act as a shield; however, in this tight corner and angle it was not staying put. A brilliant idea (at least for me) was aluminum foil. It worked great and the sparks did not burn through.

Head was rounding even with 6 point socket, so I had no choice.

Railroadman

Good thinking!

Easy Rhino

I live over here in Chesapeake just southwest of MarkC, and can volunteer for a body lifting party as well, as I could use the experience in advance of pulling my '65s body in the future.

mattygaff

Man these 64 Convertible projects going on right now are giving me the itch. Appreciate all of the info and updates - I am going to follow along closely.

hcallaway

I have managed to remove the front four bolts from positions #1 and #2.
Location mount #3 is in a tight space and I have spun the capture nuts.
Just a matter of time to remove.

#3 not much room.

Location mount #4 will be easy to cut if needed.

hcallaway

Location #4 bolts were cut. I used PB Blaster all week and it had no effect as the cage nuts turned just like all the others.
I hope in the next 3 week to lift the body.
1 Inspect the frame.
2 Decide if we can fix it.
3 Locate another frame if needed.
4 Take the easy way out and buy a roller for 10K.
Then I am hoping the fun begins. At this point it has not been much fun!
Having two projects is too much to think about to enjoy.

Railroadman

Thanks, you saved me some work. Instead of writing all that out, I'll just copy and paste to MY thread! We're both at about the same stage I guess.

elwood13

elwood13

hcallaway

I have an easy out. I keep taking it apart and I hope my brother can fix my mistakes and put it back together. It pretty much worked that way as a kid with my Dad. Dad will be 86 this May and he still talks about the next car or truck he needs. His tools are always close by, unfortunately his desire is outrunning his physical ability. That is where Pat comes in. He is the real mechanic and he can let me hold the wrenches when it gets really hard!!!!
Some of my cars came out pretty good even with my skills.
1964 MGB This is it 20 years after building it for my wife's 40th.

Meyers Manx Copy (Berrien Buggy)
Tube Chassis, Fiberglass VW Looking Pan/Floor 1600cc Base Engine

1968 Jeep Gladiator Thriftside


Interior is spiced up. Outside stock other than a Corvette color.

elwood13

hcallaway

After removing, breaking or grinding the body bolts off, it became apparent that the rust in the frame was more than was expected or described by the seller on eBay. I am talking about visible issues. The frame replacement parts are available, but when you do the math it adds up quickly.
The seller agreed to kick us back $2000. He was a stand up guy as he was representing it for a 20 year friend.
Our math on the existing 64 frame.
Parts with one kick up if needed. $1000
Add another $650 for the other side if needed.
Add $400 for sandblasting.
Race shop welding on his frame jig. $800 I think it could hit $1400 but I will use the lower amount.
We have hit $2850 at this point taking for granted that the frame will be square.
A replacement frame we found is going to run about $3900.
We are getting a frame without any issues, front disc brake set up and we are moving the project ahead by at least 4-5 months.
Simple wire brushing and some minor grinding of weld spray and we are good to start rebuilding.
Out of pocket will be less than 2K and if we can sell our frame, anything we recovered is a major plus.
Thanks to 65 Pro Vette for working with us.

It has been in dry storage since 1969. A race car project that never was finished. 65 Pro Vette may wish to correct me.

elwood13

ptjsk

Looks like a great way to go!

Pat

GTOguy

I agree. Excellent call on getting a solid frame. You'll have a much better foundation to work off of and much fewer headaches down the road.

hcallaway

The frame was everything Don said it was, in fact it exceeded my expectations. The A arms look brand new in addition to the new spindles.
No surface rust, just a faded maroon coating of paint and dust.

I was also able to get a 1963/64 Door that has the raised pads. Door is a 8/10 if not better.

The labor to repair it and the strength would never be on par with the replacement door.

Also with the delivery was a 1964/65 Valance panel that needs some minor repair. (This means a 2 day project for me vs 2-3 hours for a competent fiberglass man.)

Also a gas tank and 2 rear bumper cores.
Major scores and from a great guy and supporter of the Corvette Repairers/Restorers out there.

Westlotorn

It looked in the picture of your frame like someone took the time to full weld the frame.
Factory had short welds with gaps between them.
I believe it is recommended to full weld a frame prior to racing the cars to stiffen it up.

There are even notes to add braces or gussets to add strength, a forum search should find this information.
Mark

hcallaway

This was in a prior thread back in Jan 2018.

I will take some better pictures of the backside also maybe we can figure this out. It is certainly beefy. I’ll see if I can find any markings on any of the parts. Unfortunately the person that owned all of the stuff has died. The 63 split window had been parked in a barn in northeast Pennsylvania since 1974. It came with a lot of parts that we’re definitely not 63 and there is a frame that is either 65 or 66 i’m trying to see if there’s a Vin number on the frame. (It was a 66.)The frame had some modifications in front of the trailing arm mounting to strengthen it. The center crossmember was removed and was modified to be removable. And all of this rear suspension parts were part of this frame. I love treasure hunts if these parts could only talk. Thanks for the input.

hcallaway

There were about 4 64 builds that all started about the same time. Others are far ahead but, Pat and I are ready to get going. I don't think anyone has to worry about our speed.
Our project had to take a back seat due to finishing up another project. (Still not finished, but heading in the right direction.)


Plans have been drawn and steel ordered for a body dolly. Pictures should be posted in the next 2 weeks.
The game plan is:
Separate the body.
The Body stays in Richmond.
The Chassis and new Frame goes to Raleigh..
Engine is going to be freshened up. Add a Fuel Injection system. Sniper. (Outside chance of an LS or Crate Engine, then a new transmission.)
Chassis Painted and new/rebuilt suspension.
Rear End - Bearings and Seals, maybe clutches.
Transmission - Minimum Clutch and Pressure Plate
Body - We are hoping we have found our guy to do the rebuild of the front end and headlights. We have a couple of other areas of concern but they are minor.
Paint - We have another shop we have used for paint in the past. Daytona Blue.
New Wiring Harness.
Dash is going to remain as is.
Interior will be later.
New top down the road.
We are looking for a solid driver.

ChattanoogaJSB