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After eight months of research I feel pretty certain the mileage is around 20K and is correct because of the paperwork and the fact that the owner that had it for the last 48 years also confirmed the mileage. The owner also confirmed it sat inside of a barn/shed for the better part of 40 years. He only had it on the road from 74 to 76 before parking it. His stepmother in a separate conversation confirmed it sat for (at least the 20 some years she was married to his father) pretty much exposed to the elements on one side of the saw mill. The owner indicted he parked it due primarily because of the carburetor leaking gas. His stepmom said it was due to bad memories.
With all do respect, I find it hard to believe, looking at the pictures, that it is a 20k car. I have a car that was purchased in 1971 with ~70k miles and the frame is perfect.
With all do respect, I find it hard to believe, looking at the pictures, that it is a 20k car. I have a car that was purchased in 1971 with ~70k miles and the frame is perfect.
Ed
Ed Good points. I understand perfectly what you are saying. On all my build sites FSJ Gladiator, Samba DB, British Car Forum Austin Healey, all post internet or there would have been more, I always show the good the bad and the ugly.
With any car, how it has been kept is more important than the mileage or year. This car sat in a wet saw dust environment on a damp floor. The frame had been coated in mud. The mileage is really only important to me to determine the effects on the drivetrain.
In the end it will have no effect on the value of the car. We bought it under the assumptions that it was 122 or 222.
Ed your Vette is beautiful. http://www.vintagecorvettes.com/67mbconv350.html
I knew I had an issue with the number 3 body mount metal that is part of the body. In order to really inspect this area, the body has to be removed. My body dolly was interfering with access so I removed it, lifted it with a 4 post lift, straps and then secured it so I would not get crushed if it fell.
There was minor rust on the passenger rail at the very back. I am going to use the rocker channel inserts from Zips and spot weld them into position on both sides. To do this you have to remove the welded rocker molding brackets. This takes a lot of effort.
if you pre-drill the spot weld it guides the spot weld cutting tool. Then with a cold chisel you break the welds. One the inside part of the bracket is broke loose, take a large channel lock plier and crush the bracket into it’s self. Now work harden (bend it back and forth) and the inaccessible side of the bracket will break the two spot welds and release. I did both sides in about 3 hours.
Just a quick question about the top picture there with the body sitting on stands.. Being that it is a convertible. Are the doors closed and latched enough to support the rear of the body, or are you somehow using additional support ?
The way you see the car with the four post lift I have it supported with the straps and an additional strap lifting the nose. I also still have the fiberglass top cover installed and latched. If the doors were removed I would have added some support there. I don’t have any support holding up the rear. It will only be this way for a week or so.
On my body dolly I do have support front and rear.
‘‘This section is U shape. The leg to the outside had some rust at the very bottom. I decided to strengthen it with some plate spot welded to the solid structure and add additional metal to the back of the cage. The L shape will give it even more strength. The rocker channel insert will form the base and is predrilled for the body mount bolt.
Great job. I really enjoy it when I find these threads. They are very informative. I will be following yours closely. I am currently working on a 1965 coupe resto mod. You may want to check out my thread. I have run into a lot of issues that may be useful to you. Do a search for "My 1965 Rebuild". I am currently (mostly) finished with the chassis and drive train and have started looking at the body and interior setup. You and your bother are doing an excellent job. Keep up the good work.
Great job. I really enjoy it when I find these threads. They are very informative. I will be following yours closely. I am currently working on a 1965 coupe resto mod. You may want to check out my thread. I have run into a lot of issues that may be useful to you. Do a search for "My 1965 Rebuild". I am currently (mostly) finished with the chassis and drive train and have started looking at the body and interior setup. You and your bother are doing an excellent job. Keep up the good work.
Sam
Sam you have some mad skills. What you went through with the frame, engine mounts and powder coating (if I remember correctly), I would have been at wits end. Yet you keep pushing forward. I really appreciate how detailed you are with the steps you are taking. Feel free to point out my mistakes. Thanks Holt
The sleeves are a perfect fit. I believe they are a heavier gauge steel. Zip had them in stock. After applying a rust prevention on the original channels, then prime and paint the sleeves, it was an easy install.
See the small holes barely visible for 4 spot welds each side. They will be tacked at the rear on the problem side.
Bolted in place to check the fit. Finished view facing towards the rear in front of the wheel-wells. This was my troubled area that has about 1-1 1/2 rusted area.
The ugly plug welds will obviously not be seen once the cover inside the wheel-wells is attached. At the bottom you can see the gap that will be connected.
Not for the faint of heart when you start pulling and tugging on the chrome trim.
So far only a small area of concern. Still have the front molding to remove. Ordered the tool to help pull the trim.
Holt, are you taking the windshield out? If so, I did the unorthodox way of cutting the weather strip out from the inside, pulled the windshield out from the inside and then removed the trim. It actually worked very easy. I did have the top and side trim removed prior to taking out the glass.
Forgot to add I also pulled the dash first. Once the glass was out I numbered the clips and unscrewed them. Once the trim piece was off I removed the clips.
12-26-2018, 08:18 PM
