C1 power window conversion
#2
Team Owner
Don't really have instructions written down but I did it on my 61...
Here is one post and you can search for several more:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-the-61-a.html
I used the manual window crank holes for the power window switches so I didn't have to buy new door panel stainless.
Here is one post and you can search for several more:
https://www.corvetteforum.com/forums...-the-61-a.html
I used the manual window crank holes for the power window switches so I didn't have to buy new door panel stainless.
#3
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
Royal PITA... my shop is doing this right now on a 60... and again... I'll say Royal PITA....
The new run channels up front are always to tight, the rear runs that are lined ... again are always too tight.. We've re-lined the rear channels and now the door will only go up about 2/3 rds of the way. We're pulling the rear runs out tomorrow to tweak them. The window motors are new, they drop like a rock but raise good until 2/3rds.
While we thought we had this in the bag before we assembled the doors, the rear runs are still to tight. An old trick is to use a 1/4" ratchet with a long extension on it, chuck the rear run in a vise and tweak it with the ratchet handle until it slides gently on the window frame. The extension gives you leverage. (I have an old craftsman ratchet that fits perfectly into the run, but it's old and is a square handle and not rounded).
Good luck... I tried to talk our customer out of this and Frankie probably has other suggestions at the link he posted.
Ernie
#4
Melting Slicks
You have to bend the channels out a little. I did it with the window out and channel out so I could do it Precisely on the bench. The new window fuzzies__are a little thicker.
#5
Team Owner
I didn't have all that problem with the windows mounting or the vertical channels. I used some ultra-thin Jo-Ann's Fabric felt for the rears and let it go over the top of the channel one inch then glued it down on each side -- this keeps it from an edge getting caught and 'balling up'. The worst part for me was the C1 window stops....tweaking those to work with the extra force of the electric motors was a true PITA...
#6
Race Director
Member Since: Jun 2006
Location: Inverness FL
Posts: 17,891
Received 727 Likes
on
621 Posts
St. Jude Donor '07
"if" your windows roll up[ easily with the hand crank, and IF you don't NEED (project creep here...) to replace the channel liners; then as, Frank says, it should be a piece of cake.
Bill
Bill
#7
Former Vendor
Member Since: Aug 2006
Location: Jeffersonville Indiana 812-288-7103
Posts: 76,656
Received 1,813 Likes
on
1,458 Posts
St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
I might have to try Jo-Ann's the next time because the repro felt sucks... and as stated by Frankie, you over lap it at the top and the bottom to keep it from catching. I use Weldwood glue on them but the 3M fast tack adhesive should work too.
Willcox
#8
Team Owner
Some jam a wooden block in those rear channels to make sure the felt is glued completely into the corners....some run a bare socket extension (the business end) up and down to get the same effect... That felt is just for anti-rattle anyways...any material thin enough that still keeps from having a metal-to-metal rattle works just fine..
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 04-18-2018 at 06:03 PM.