Vipergtrs

Anyone converted to an electric pump?

I have a 66 427 and think I'd like to change to one.

What pump and where have you placed it?

Nowhere Man

The mechanical pump is not a problem and works just fine. Why fix what’s not broken

Plasticman

The mechanical pump should work just fine....No advantage to the electrical, unless you are converting to EFI and need the higher pressure.

Plasticman

ghostrider20

I agree, it’s a solution for a non problem.

Vipergtrs

OK, I gotcha. Had been told by numerous people that an electric pump would help cure my issue

My car dies due to vapour lock from parked hot or in traffic about 50 meters up the road.

Wanted the get this shitty modern fuel away from the heat. Both the chassis fuel line and the mechanical pump are heat soaked.

MelWff

what temperature thermostat do you have?
do you have the stock fan set up using a thermal clutch for the fan?
do you have an insulator gasket between the carb and intake?
did the car have a fuel return line and it has been disconnected?

Nowhere Man

Are you using factory steel line from pump to carb? Is it routed in a way that doesn’t touch anything? Is your timing set correctly.

Vipergtrs

The car isn't running hot, infact it's quite cool.

I have a carb spacer and shield but the issue isn't in the carb or it wouldn't start.

I have an aeroquip style hose from pump to carb fuel rail (which is heat wrapped)

The pipe on the chassis near to the exhaust manifold gets hot, it's stainless steel.

Because the car runs for a minute or so up the road before it stops it seems to me that the fuel lock is in that pipe. I thought that an electric pump up back might help push the fuel through this area (probably wrongly)

Trouble is here in the UK we wait 6 months to get dry weather so frustration is high

Rustman

I know the BB fuel pump is a little different than the SB, but when my SB's fuel pump started to stop working properly (pin for pump lever arm fell out) the pump would work fine when cold, but when the car warmed up, it didn't. The ailing pump wouldn't pump at a high enough pressure, so it allowed the fuel line to vapor lock when running and standing still. Sometimes I could get going from a stop and it would stumble, but keep going; other times it would die and couldn't get started again until it cooled down.

Have you tested your fuel pump?

Vipergtrs

That sounds just like mine

I think I'll replace it as a matter or course

MelWff

how about doing a fuel pressure test?
if this is a Holley carb equipped engine have you opened the primary and secondary bowl site plugs to see if there is gas in the carburetor when the engine stalls?
have you confirmed that when it dies you actually have spark to the plugs?

Tampa Jerry

Sounds like the problem occurs within a few miles of your home at the beginning of a trip. Could it be that either your fuel filter or the sock filter in the tank are clogged? Jerry

Vipergtrs

I haven't because it just feels like fuel and vapour lock is very common. It certainly needs looking at first

Vipergtrs

No never happens leaving from home with a cool car. Only when hot

AZDoug

Doug

candipogo

........ i have an aeromotive
elec fuel pump, and filters on my car. i have the pump mounted to the frame rail close to the tank. i have a regulator on the firewall. no vapor lock or hot start issues. a manual may be fine as others will suggest. but if you go electric get the best...aeromotive. also not as noisy as some of the others.
phil

Frankie the Fink

Vapor lock is indeed a problem....and a weird one. My dual quad 61 never had an issue with it. My 63 250hp car does on steamy days. I put a rebuilt carb on it two days ago so we'll see how things go this summer.

If I still have problems I will install a 'booster' electric pump setup for hot days; already have the components and all the plumbing to mount it at the fuel tank and activate it by a switch. There is some thought to having an oil pressure cutout for the pump so it shuts off in a crash. My thought was, if it solves my problem, then go that extra complication.

With this setup you leave the mechanical pump in place and use it most of the time. Electric pump selection is very sensitive with the old carbs (Carter, Holley, etc.) - finding one that won't over-pressure the carb is critical.. For best results the pump must be mounted as close to the fuel tank as possible.

I can hide this rig up above the spare tire tub and keep the stock engine bay appearance, hiding the ON/OFF switch in the cockpit might be a trick though.

Frankie the Fink

BTW - if anybody has a slick way of running 12V to the rear of a midyear coupe I'm all ears

GUSTO14

This can be and is a problem for some of us and this is one way to address it. I installed an electric fuel pump on my '73 convertible in this manner years ago.

Because I only drove the car a few times a month, I found myself having to crank it excessively to refill the fuel bowl before it would light off. With the added electric pump, I can hit the switch for a few seconds and the engine will start without draining the battery if I haven't driven it in a while.

Good luck... GUSTO

Chummy85623

I'm curious. Why the need for the extra plumbing ? Why not just install the pump directly inline ? I'm putting an electric fuel pump on my C1 car. Mounting on the frame rail. I'm removing the mechanical pump and using a block off plate. I like the idea of no lever rubbing on the cam and having a switch to help deter any attempts at theft.

I'd also be interested in ideas for a power source.