jcchevy

Need advice on rebuilding the original master cylinder. Car will never be NCRS judged so numbers are not important. Is it worth effort trying to build the original and how difficult is it? Seems it should be pretty straight forward BUT I have thought that on other projects. Any advice or recommendations are appreciated

Luke 1967

My car will not be judged either but when I was younger and stupid, I threw out so may good original parts and replaced with cool parts from the speed shop. Now I wish I had kept all those parts and always try to rebuilt or restore before I buy.
I happen to be working on my brake system now on my 67. Master cylinder is not the same as your 62 but principle is the same, and very easy to rebuild. Key is your cylinder needs to be in good shape with no deep pits. Mine was ok, so a simple honing tool for brake cylinders on the end of the drill was all that was needed, and a rebuild kit, easy to find. Its sitting on my bench ready for re assembly.
I'm sure you can find a thread or info on this forum from someone who has rebuilt a 62 master cylinder like yours that may have some specific advice.
My advice is to try it. You can always replace if you take apart and determine its too far gone.

Plasticman

Your local NAPA should have (or be able to get) the rebuild kit....

Use your ST-12 Service Manual for instructions..(also available online, if you don't have one).
http://chevy.oldcarmanualproject.com...csg/index.html

If you find pitting in the bore, have it sleeved (or perhaps you can hone it, if the pits are light).

Aftermarket master cylinders are available, and will work, but the fill cap is a larger size, and is made from a softer (and more easily stripped) plastic.

Plasticman

GTOguy

Rebuilding a single port master for a C1 is likely one of the easiest chores on a C1...Press in the rear piston with a rod on the bench, remove the circlip, and remove the piston. If your cylinder walls are not pitted, rusty, or wavy, you can clean it up and put a seal kit in it for about $10. If it is rusty/wavy, you can get it sleeved, or get one from Rock Auto for under $40 and bolt it on. I went with Rock Auto on my '61, and it came out fine. The original is mothballed, so the next owner can sleeve it if he/she wants correct numbers. I'm not concerned with numbers on my car at this point!

DZAUTO

NOT because I am a numbers person, but because there is something inside my weird brain that prevents me from tossing unserviceable parts if they can be rebuilt or repaired. As mentioned, brake cylinders are quite easy to rebuild. I have honed and installed a kit in many of the brake cylinders (master and wheel) on most of my cars. YA,YA, YA, YA, YA, it is faster and easier to go to NAPA, O'Reilly, etc and get a replacement wheel cylinder, install it, bleed that line and be on your way than it is to remove the leaky wheel cylinder, tear it down, hone it, put it back together with a kit (a kit is cheaper than a new cylinder), even though it is more time consuming and can be more of a mess. But when the cylinder is rebuilt (or sleeved as mentioned), the original cylinder (which no judge will ever see!!!) is saved. Is it worth it to save a master or wheel cylinder? Depends on your point of view. Personally, I'll spend an additional 30min or 1hr to rebuild one just to save a couple of bucks------------------and keep the original.

OK, so why didn't I rebuild the original 265 in my 56 Vette instead of building and installing a SB400??? That came from the same weird brain.