66 roadster

Easy Rhino

Nice car.

I use anti seize, but don't put on too much - it can get on everything.

There are dozens of threads on this forum about proper (and improper) use of knock-offs.

ILBMF

You should give each spinner 6 or 8 big whacks with that thumper hammer. Don't be shy, hit them good. I don't use any loctite or lube.

65GGvert

The single most important instruction about installing the wheels:
They will go over the studs on the adapter TWO ways, only one is correct. The large holes in the wheels go over the lug nuts on the adapter, the small holes in the wheel go over the threadless studs on the adapter. It MUST be this way or the lug nuts will chew up the smaller hole, the wheel will work loose and can be catastrophic. When installed correctly the wheel goes all the way up flush and it will take several rounds of the spinner to tighten. The outside of the adapter should be almost flush with the spinner edge. I'll attach a picture of this flushness I'm speaking of and also what the inside of a wheel that has been installed wrong looks like chewed up.

65GGvert

66RBS

I'm also a new owner of used KO's. Previous car had the direct bolt ons. One thing I noticed on the spare ( haven't taken a wheel off yet) is that the cone is essentially clamped in place not allowing you to see the indexing when installing the wheel. Assume this is going to be the case for the wheels on the car. Some vendors sells longer lug nuts for the adapter which I think will prevent mis indexing.

MikeM

Anybody that would apply loc-tite to KO wheel threads should immediately sell the wheels and buy something else.

Dry threads are not good. Clean/lubed is good.

I don't think you need to wildly pound away on those spinners with an eight pound hammer to properly tighten the wheel. The factory supplied a two pound hammer. An expert can tell you how much more force you can apply with eight vs. two pound hammer.

65GGvert

I just noticed you bought used. Here's an instruction sheet in case you didn't get one.

ReplicaWheels.pdf

66 roadster

66 roadster

MikeM

Okay. Same goes for six pound hammer.

66RBS

I will be removing my wheels for the first time to do a brake bleed.

Do I need the 6# lead mother thumper or will the 6# dead blow hammer do the same thing? Looks like the lead hammers have a short life

MikeM

The Mother Thumper will last you a long time if you don't beat it to death on those spinners like many recommend you do.

I tighten snug with a five pound dead blow (to save wear and tear on the lead) and then give the spinner 3-4 good thumps with the MT. My MT hammer is about ten years old and still in great shape but I'm not one that pulls in the driveway, doors fly open, hood goes up, etc., etc.

I'd never recommend anyone use a dead blow to tighten their wheels. You can easily get much more torque on the spinner with the lead hammer.

65GGvert

Just curious, why would you take the wheels off to do a brake bleed?

66RBS

I guess I could access the bleeder screws on the front without but the rear has both and inner and outer bleed screws. Just looked and I didn't jack the car up but I don't think they are accessible without taking the wheel off. Am I wrong?

Randy

JohnZ

You can't get to the rear outboard bleeders with the wheel in place.

65GGvert

Sorry, I didn't remember the location of the outer bleeder.

66 roadster

DSR

This is how I do it, 60,000 miles no problems.

smuggler85

Check out Cobra Valley. I use their 6# ****** Thumper and Spinner EAZE goop with 10 good whacks. 4 years with no problems.