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1961 fuel injection question

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Old 04-21-2018, 09:45 PM
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burtonbl103
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Default 1961 fuel injection question

Went to start my 61 after sitting for about 6 months.
Went through car all fluids etc like i do every year


It will crank and wont fire.

#1 Have plenty of spark at plug wires and coils.
#2 Pulled all plugs and put new ones in them ( ALL DRY) no fuel on them.
#3 Float in fuel unit is not stuck and fuel in the bowl.
#4 Pulled off fuel filter and when i crank lower pump pumps fine.

#5 Pulled off copper fuel injection line ( NO FUEL COMING OUT)

#6 Upper fuel pump to bowl off distributor works fine has pressure.

#7 I have a siphon break solonid in my fuel unit and i do hear it clicking
( engaging when i turn the key so i don't think that is an issue.


Was going to pull the fuel unit off tomorrow and put it on the bench.


Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated.

Thank You

Last edited by burtonbl103; 04-21-2018 at 09:48 PM.
Old 04-21-2018, 10:06 PM
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K2
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Before you do that, pull the small hose that connects the bowl vent to the plenum and squirt a little gas straight into the plenum fitting, reconnect the hose and see if it will fire. After a long nap I always do this on mine and it fires right up without a lot of cranking.
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Old 04-21-2018, 10:11 PM
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DZAUTO
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Mistake number one-----------------------DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT ALLOW AN FI ENGINE TO SIT FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME!!!!!!
They need to be started and run for a while at fast idle, preferably until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Do this AT LEAST once a month! Every 2-3wks would be better.
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Old 04-21-2018, 10:25 PM
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Check your high pressure pump drive cable.
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Old 04-21-2018, 10:44 PM
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jim lockwood
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Before you pull the unit try what Klaus (K2) suggested and verify that the Cranking Signal Valve is operating.

CSVs typically will fail open and in that case the engine will start but it runs excessively rich. However, I have seen a few CSVs fail closed (very rare failure!) and the engine would not fire.

One other rare failure I've seen is an anti-siphon solenoid valve which clicked on command but which wouldn't pass any fuel. I doubt this is your problem, but it's worth mentioning.

Jim
Old 04-21-2018, 10:56 PM
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Originally Posted by DZAUTO
Mistake number one-----------------------DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT ALLOW AN FI ENGINE TO SIT FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME!!!!!!
They need to be started and run for a while at fast idle, preferably until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Do this AT LEAST once a month! Every 2-3wks would be better.


i know . I know my dad died last year we did all car thkngs togther its been really hard for me to even touch thrm this past year
Old 04-22-2018, 12:16 AM
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Originally Posted by burtonbl103
i know . I know my dad died last year we did all car thkngs togther its been really hard for me to even touch thrm this past year
Sorry for the loss of your father. Out of respect for him and your car just drive it.
Old 04-22-2018, 06:22 AM
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Bill, we're going to get you back out driving that beautiful fuelie this year. That is exactly what your Dad would want and just what that car needs

The day it was delivered from Nevada a few years ago:

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Old 04-22-2018, 06:48 AM
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Originally Posted by Critter1
Check your high pressure pump drive cable.
I'd go here first. Sometimes, when they sit idle, the pump gears stick. You turn the key and twist a cable.
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Old 04-22-2018, 08:02 AM
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Originally Posted by silver837
Sorry for the loss of your father. Out of respect for him and your car just drive it.
You are 100% correct oncr it get it running again in driving through hell out of it lol
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Old 04-22-2018, 08:03 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
I'd go here first. Sometimes, when they sit idle, the pump gears stick. You turn the key and twist a cable.
Goong back at it later going to go check that first .Thanks
Old 04-22-2018, 08:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Critter1
Check your high pressure pump drive cable.
the cable is turning the pump by hand its not super loose. it turns not super hard but tight
Old 04-22-2018, 10:35 AM
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is the distributor turning the cable?

Bill
Old 04-22-2018, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by burtonbl103

#5 Pulled off copper fuel injection line ( NO FUEL COMING OUT)


#7 I have a siphon break solonid in my fuel unit and i do hear it clicking
( engaging when i turn the key so i don't think that is an issue.
Originally Posted by jim lockwood

However, I have seen a few CSVs fail closed (very rare failure!) and the engine would not fire.

One other rare failure I've seen is an anti-siphon solenoid valve which clicked on command but which wouldn't pass any fuel.

Jim
Assuming the distributor is turning the cable and assuming the engine will fire with a shot of gasoline i the intake but still won't run, I'd do the above next.
Old 04-22-2018, 11:45 AM
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Originally Posted by wmf62
is the distributor turning the cable?

Bill
yes it is thakns
Old 04-22-2018, 11:46 AM
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can this be cleaned in parts cleaner ?
Old 04-22-2018, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by burtonbl103

can this be cleaned in parts cleaner ?
Never tried it.

Apply a vacuum to the threaded fitting and see if you get air flow into the push-on nipple. If you do, then the CSV isn't stuck closed and it isn't the reason your engine won't start.

Um, new thought..... this is a '61, yes? Has anyone replaced the original piston-type spill valve with the newer (and much better) thumbtack style spill valve?

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Old 04-22-2018, 12:32 PM
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If you put a shot of fuel in the intake and the engine starts (or starts/dies), you can just zero in on the CSV as a possibility.

I wouldn't put the CSV in any kind of solvent. If you ruin it, you get to pay $100 for another one.

I'm out. Too many cooks spoil the brew, er stew.

Last edited by MikeM; 04-22-2018 at 12:34 PM.
Old 04-22-2018, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
If you put a shot of fuel in the intake and the engine starts (or starts/dies), you can just zero in on the CSV as a possibility.

I wouldn't put the CSV in any kind of solvent. If you ruin it, you get to pay $100 for another one.

I'm out. Too many cooks spoil the brew, er stew.
Many years ago, I dropped a non working cranking signal valve in lacquer thinner for about 10 minutes. If it didn't work, I didn't have anything to loose so I went ahead with the test. When I removed it, I dried it thoroughly and tried it. It worked!
Since then, I have done the same to several of these over the years and I've had pretty good success. One is on one of my 63's and it was still working several years later when I last fired the engine about 10 years ago.
Old 04-22-2018, 12:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Critter1
Many years ago, I dropped a non working cranking signal valve in lacquer thinner for about 10 minutes. If it didn't work, I didn't have anything to loose so I went ahead with the test. When I removed it, I dried it thoroughly and tried it. It worked!
Since then, I have done the same to several of these over the years and I've had pretty good success. One is on one of my 63's and it was still working several years later when I last fired the engine about 10 years ago.
That is good to hear from someone that has tried it. Only thing, many years ago, CSV's were selling at the dealer for about a $1.25.



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