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Apply a vacuum to the threaded fitting and see if you get air flow into the push-on nipple. If you do, then the CSV isn't stuck closed and it isn't the reason your engine won't start.
Um, new thought..... this is a '61, yes? Has anyone replaced the original piston-type spill valve with the newer (and much better) thumbtack style spill valve?
Yes, for $100 ea., exchange last time I bought a handful.
YEP, and the rebuilt ones are much better than original CSVs. And yes they are rather pricy ------------------------------BUT EVERYTHING FOR REBUILDING FI UNITS IS PRICY. Just check to see what people such as John DeGregory, Jerry Bramlett, and others are charging for a full rebuild/restoration.
From a practical perspective, the original piston style spill valve can get gummed up and stick in its bore.... could result in a no-start condition. The thumbtack style is virtually immune to getting stuck just by its very nature.
Try priming the engine as suggested by K2 and MikeM.
Mistake number one-----------------------DO NOT, DO NOT, DO NOT ALLOW AN FI ENGINE TO SIT FOR AN EXTENDED PERIOD OF TIME!!!!!!
They need to be started and run for a while at fast idle, preferably until the engine is thoroughly warmed up. Do this AT LEAST once a month! Every 2-3wks would be better.
Tom, just curious about what could go wrong here. I have had my 65 fuelie for 17 years and every year it sits unstarted about 6 months over winter. Every spring the fuelie car starts right up after some seconds of cranking. Could this do any harm to my injection unit?
Tom, just curious about what could go wrong here. I have had my 65 fuelie for 17 years and every year it sits unstarted about 6 months over winter. Every spring the fuelie car starts right up after some seconds of cranking. Could this do any harm to my injection unit?
mine sat for 17years and was never started... the biggest potential problem would be moisture in the fuel meter bowl that would leave rust and other residue. I don't recommend it, but with proper care it will work...
I don't see where it's any worse to let a FI sit without running than let a carburetor sit. Both can suffer problems if the fuel dries up and leaves deposits, or worse, they sit idle with water in the system.
Both can/will suffer.
The FI will just be harder and more expensive to fix whatever may happen than a carb.
I don't see where it's any worse to let a FI sit without running than let a carburetor sit. Both can suffer problems if the fuel dries up and leaves deposits, or worse, they sit idle with water in the system.
Both can/will suffer.
The FI will just be harder and more expensive to fix whatever may happen than a carb.
AND, referring to water or moisture in an FI unit. If enough moisture condenses in the fuel meter, AND, if there is moisture in the hi-pressure pump, this can result in rust which will cause the gears in the pump and be seized when attempting to turn the engine over with the starter. If the gears in the pump are seized, then the drive cable will twist and break. The result is no fuel pressure out to the nozzles.
Also, as Jim mentioned, the early units used a piston/sleeve type of main fuel control valve and the later fuel control valve was the "thumb tack" style. All early FI units-------------EXCEP the 57 and 59 units------------can be converted to the thumb tack valve-------------which is generally recommended during a rebuild. If an early unit has the piston/sleeve style valve, and it becomes frozen due to corrosion and/or old gummed up gas, it will require removing the FI unit from the engine to free it up. Since it must be removed to free it up, that's the time to replace it with a thumb tack valve.
Now, to address the original question-------------there are multiple things that can prevent an FI unit from causing the engine not to start. Without having the FI unit in front of a knowledgeable person's face, it is nearly impossible to make an exact diagnosis in this forum.
First, make sure it is getting fire to the plugs.
Next, if the plugs are getting fire, then remove the coil wire, and remove a nozzle line from a nozzle (number 1 is the most accessible). Crank the engine with the starter and observe to see if fuel is coming out of the nozzle line. If no fuel is coming from the nozzle line, then MOST probably the issue is in the fuel meter somewhere.
First, make sure it is getting fire to the plugs.
Next, if the plugs are getting fire, then remove the coil wire, and remove a nozzle line from a nozzle (number 1 is the most accessible). Crank the engine with the starter and observe to see if fuel is coming out of the nozzle line. If no fuel is coming from the nozzle line, then MOST probably the issue is in the fuel meter somewhere.
Pulled the unit went thought it( wanted to do this for awile. Rebuilt everything and replaced all gaskets etc. Found a new OEM in the Box CSV as well. Put it back on today Fired right up runs great ill be driving the hell out of her this summer and make sure , i fire it up every week in the winter. Thanks
to all for the help
04-22-2018, 01:32 PM
