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I'm going to be getting a larger air compressor at some point soon. I have a sand blast cabinet and it will need more than the small garage-size one in use now. I'm looking at this one: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...r?cm_vc=-10005
I will need to anchor the thing, and while it's not rocket science, putting anchor bolts in concrete is a new one for me.
1. How big a bolt should I use?
2. How deep in the concrete should I set them?
3. What drill should I get for making the holes?
4. As part of #3, what diameter hole in the concrete do I need?
5. Is regular Sack-crete from HD or Lowes OK?
6. Any other things I need to learn or take into account while planning?
I'll be away from the computer till Monday evening as it stands now, so may not acknowledge replies immediately.
Thanks in advance!
I have a 60 gal 2 stage and I used motor mounts ( any rubber will work) under leg stands to prevent it from cracking floor and used concrete anchors used to frame in a wall in a basement floor , you should go 3" in floor and install drain hose on bottom before mounting . You can leave it unsecured on concrete floor as others have said and it probably wont move , but it will make a hell of a racket vibrating on concrete.
I'm going to be getting a larger air compressor at some point soon. I have a sand blast cabinet and it will need more than the small garage-size one in use now. I'm looking at this one: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...r?cm_vc=-10005
I will need to anchor the thing, and while it's not rocket science, putting anchor bolts in concrete is a new one for me.
1. How big a bolt should I use?
2. How deep in the concrete should I set them?
3. What drill should I get for making the holes?
4. As part of #3, what diameter hole in the concrete do I need?
5. Is regular Sack-crete from HD or Lowes OK?
6. Any other things I need to learn or take into account while planning?
I'll be away from the computer till Monday evening as it stands now, so may not acknowledge replies immediately.
Thanks in advance!
I am sorry , I was interrupted , using 3/8 " anchors ( Home Depot or Lowes) and will have to use hammer drill with 3/8" concrete bit - you will not need any concrete
We had a 5.3 magnitude earthquake in 2014 that tossed my neighbors strapped water heater on the ground and it ripped one of those ribbed copper flex pipes in the process. Having said that I used Red Head concrete anchors as mentioned by Frankie with some floor mounting pads I bought from Grangers.
Lots of good advice here. One caveat I'll add if you do drill into the slab--double check whether or not you have a post-tensioned slab. If so, you'll want to note where the cables run so you don't inadvertently drill into one (not likely, but better safe than sorry).
Lots of good advice here. One caveat I'll add if you do drill into the slab--double check whether or not you have a post-tensioned slab. If so, you'll want to note where the cables run so you don't inadvertently drill into one (not likely, but better safe than sorry).
an interesting thought... I have never heard of a post-tensioned garage slab on grade....
Hockey pucks! I use then under my 80 gal compressor and practically all heavy equipment in my shop. On your 60 gal compressor which probably has only 3 legs all you need is 3 pucks, 3 1.5" lag bolts and 3 flat washers. I pre-drill a center hole in my pucks which makes it easy to screw the lag bolts in. Easy-peasy and your compressor will never move (on its own). FWIW Bill
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Originally Posted by 67's
Don, I also agree with leave it on the palett, there is I believe the model you were looking at on your craigslist.
Tom M
I'm back home, and thanks to all for the input. I believe after reading the number of people who have left theirs on the pallet for 15, 20, or 25 years that's what I will do. I might cut up a couple pieces of an old tire to put under that pallet.
Good advice also about cooling. I am planning on putting it in a small room which used to be an office, and will have to plan how to get enough air in. I have a fan I can hang so it provides some cooling. Purpose of the small room is to deaden the sound a bit.
I'm back home, and thanks to all for the input. I believe after reading the number of people who have left theirs on the pallet for 15, 20, or 25 years that's what I will do. I might cut up a couple pieces of an old tire to put under that pallet.
Good advice also about cooling. I am planning on putting it in a small room which used to be an office, and will have to plan how to get enough air in. I have a fan I can hang so it provides some cooling. Purpose of the small room is to deaden the sound a bit.
Tom, I will check CL as soon as I get some chow.
New York is seismic zone 1 or 2A, both very mild. The maximum ground acceleration is 0.16G. You do not need much anchorage.
If the pallet is 4x4 lumber, or just use two 4x4's, anchor the 4x4's to the slab with four 3/8" red heads or anchor bolts with lead shields embedded to a 3" depth. When you buy the anchor bolts and shields they give you the drill size on the package. Then anchor the compressor to the 4x4's with 2.5 inch long lag bolts in the hole size of the compressor (expect 1/2 inch). Wood, #2 Douglas fir or redwood, will dampen vibration enough for most users. Adding waffle pad or cork isolators between the compressor feet and wood is OK, and if you have a thin slab it helps tame noise.
Vibration transmission through the compressor piping is usually greater than through the floor mounting. Use flex lines or lots of elbows and long swing legs as vibration elimination pipe to minimize the motion to the structure. A zip cord for electrical is better than conduit for vibration as well, and works a a service disconnect.
In earthquake country seismic zone 4 we have to use the isolators and anchorage like shown on this site: https://mason-ind.com/housed/. This .pdf will tell you more than you ever want to know for isolating your compressor, other than the anchorage at the slab (and 3/8" red heads with a 3" embed depth, for two anchors per isolator into 2500 psi concrete at least 6" inboard of any edge, will be overkill.
I have a 5hp with 80 gallon tank and have it sitting on blocks of 2 x 4's and has not moved in the past 11 years. There are products made to isolate vibration.
Post # 24, about a few "pieces of tire under it" reminded me of a 5 HP horizontal compressor that I had that was bolted to two 2 X 6's that was over my office.
I placed two tires under it and it ran as smooth as a kitten.
install a valve and hose at the bottom for the moisture removal...you will be glad that there is a valve and hose....BEFORE you anchor it down....
A manufactor rep. told me to put a valve on the bottom of tank and bleed it down every evening. Your tank will last a lot longer. I had one rust out years ago because I didn't bleed it down every day.
I worked for years ancoring heavy machinery. Use the size that fits the hole in the base. Drill about one inch deeper than the red head length. Note! At this point stop and vacuum out the dust from the hole. If you don’t you may not be able to make the redhead grab. The extra 1” will allow you to release the bolts if you ever decide to move them.
QUOTE=AZDoug;1597049976]If you feel the need to anchor it, get some Red Head concrete anchors, or similar. Follow the instructions for drill size.
I havn't anchored my 60 gallon upright, it hasn't gone anywhere.
if I still lived in SoCal or otehr earthquake country, I would anchor it, though.
I mounted mine on railroad ties with rubber between the feet and ties. Adapted a locomotive air tank spitter valve to the bottom of the tank to continually bleed off moisture.
04-22-2018, 09:40 PM
Mine has been like that for 27 years.
