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Shop questions - anchoring a compressor on concrete floor

Old 04-22-2018, 09:57 AM
  #1  
Railroadman
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Default Shop questions - anchoring a compressor on concrete floor

I'm going to be getting a larger air compressor at some point soon. I have a sand blast cabinet and it will need more than the small garage-size one in use now. I'm looking at this one: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...r?cm_vc=-10005

I will need to anchor the thing, and while it's not rocket science, putting anchor bolts in concrete is a new one for me.

1. How big a bolt should I use?

2. How deep in the concrete should I set them?

3. What drill should I get for making the holes?

4. As part of #3, what diameter hole in the concrete do I need?

5. Is regular Sack-crete from HD or Lowes OK?

6. Any other things I need to learn or take into account while planning?

I'll be away from the computer till Monday evening as it stands now, so may not acknowledge replies immediately.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-22-2018, 10:10 AM
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quahog
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Default compressor mounting

Originally Posted by Railroadman View Post
I'm going to be getting a larger air compressor at some point soon. I have a sand blast cabinet and it will need more than the small garage-size one in use now. I'm looking at this one: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...r?cm_vc=-10005

I will need to anchor the thing, and while it's not rocket science, putting anchor bolts in concrete is a new one for me.

1. How big a bolt should I use?

2. How deep in the concrete should I set them?

3. What drill should I get for making the holes?

4. As part of #3, what diameter hole in the concrete do I need?

5. Is regular Sack-crete from HD or Lowes OK?

6. Any other things I need to learn or take into account while planning?

I'll be away from the computer till Monday evening as it stands now, so may not acknowledge replies immediately.

Thanks in advance!
When I mounted my compressor I used bolts that fit the holes in the feet of the unit , as far as bolts go longer is better . I also put hard rubber pads under the feet to cushion the vibration , has worked great for the last 8 yrs. Hope this helps . Jeff
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Old 04-22-2018, 10:20 AM
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woodsdesign
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I just left mine on the pallet it was shipped on. Make sure it was sturdy.
It has worked well for years.
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Old 04-22-2018, 10:32 AM
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Originally Posted by Railroadman View Post
I'm going to be getting a larger air compressor at some point soon. I have a sand blast cabinet and it will need more than the small garage-size one in use now. I'm looking at this one: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...r?cm_vc=-10005

I will need to anchor the thing, and while it's not rocket science, putting anchor bolts in concrete is a new one for me.

1. How big a bolt should I use?

2. How deep in the concrete should I set them?

3. What drill should I get for making the holes?

4. As part of #3, what diameter hole in the concrete do I need?

5. Is regular Sack-crete from HD or Lowes OK?

6. Any other things I need to learn or take into account while planning?

I'll be away from the computer till Monday evening as it stands now, so may not acknowledge replies immediately.

Thanks in advance!
Confession: I haven't gotten around to bolting my 60 gal compressor down yet. In 4 years or so with moderate use, it hasn't walked anywhere. I do have a safety chain on it so it can't tip. I also won't debate that it's good practice to bolt the compressor down.

To your last question, I would recommend isolating the compressor from the floor. I'm using some machinery pads--I've also seen hockey pucks used. Also use a flexible hose to connect to any fixed piping system.

Here you can see the pads, and also my dog holding the compressor down:
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Last edited by Muttley; 04-22-2018 at 10:34 AM.
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Old 04-22-2018, 10:40 AM
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I’ve done both ways. Left on the pallet and mounted.

How thick is your concrete pad? How thick are the rubber isolators? Then you decide bolt length.

Hammer drill with a concrete bit the same diameter as the bolt used. You will have just enough clearance for the bolt to fit in the hole with just a small amount of fires from a hammer. Light taps. Then hand tighten the nut with washers until snug. I used an impact after that until the isolators had about the same amount of “squish”
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Old 04-22-2018, 10:56 AM
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Ken Sungela
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I've heard complaints about IR compressors from the paint forum I frequent. Although most are professional users, so may be OK for shop use. I'd check the warranty. I don't see a need to bolt it to the floor. My 60 gallon one hasn't moved a mm for a couple years now. However a 1/2" bolt at least 2" into the concrete I would think be enough provided your concrete is in good condition..
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Old 04-22-2018, 10:57 AM
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If you feel the need to anchor it, get some Red Head concrete anchors, or similar. Follow the instructions for drill size.

I havn't anchored my 60 gallon upright, it hasn't gone anywhere.

if I still lived in SoCal or otehr earthquake country, I would anchor it, though.

Doug
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Old 04-22-2018, 11:04 AM
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MikeM
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I have two 60 gallon vertical tank compressors. Neither is bolted to the concrete floor they sit on. Both compressors are have rubber pads bolted to the tank feet. No safety chain on either as they are both located in a no foot traffic area and we don't have any big earthquakes in this area.

If you insist on bolting the compressor to the floor, I'd suggest you drill all the way through your slab into grade. That way, if you decide later to move the compressor, you can drive the anchor bolts down through the concrete and then fill over the top. Those anchor bolts are designed to not be removable so otherwise, you'd have to cut them off.
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Old 04-22-2018, 11:23 AM
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cbernhardt
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Originally Posted by Railroadman View Post
5. Is regular Sack-crete from HD or Lowes OK?
Are you putting the compressor on an existing concrete pad?
If so you should not need any Sack-crete. As others have mentioned, just drill holes in the existing pad and use the expansion type anchor bolts.

Just a word of warning - my IR compressor is about 15 years old and the only problem I had with it was the air filter case. One summer when it was about 95 I was doing a lot of sand blasting and the compressor was running pretty much constantly for about two hours. When I finished blasting I noticed that the plastic filter case had melted and some of the plastic had been sucked into the compressor.

Charles
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Old 04-22-2018, 11:25 AM
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Chuck Gongloff
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In Maryland, I had a 5HP 2 stage 80 gallon Industrial Air compressor. It sat on the floor... on hard rubber squares... It was never bolted down.

In Florida, I have a Campbell-Hausfeld 5HP single stage 60 gallon compressor, EXACTLY like the one in your picture... except for the color and logo.

That one also sits on the floor with hard rubber squares under each foot.

The one in Florida hasn't moved an inch in 9 years.
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Old 04-22-2018, 11:31 AM
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Originally Posted by woodsdesign View Post
I just left mine on the pallet it was shipped on. Make sure it was sturdy.
It has worked well for years.
I left mine on the pallet too

Bill
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Old 04-22-2018, 05:03 PM
  #12  
4 Speed Dave
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Threaded rod set in a clean drilled hole embedment depth of 3" with Hilti HY-200 Old titanium valve retainers double polished double valve spring with rubber isolation pad directly against the concrete. Tighten the threaded rod down till the vibration was almost zero with the compressor on. This is on my 80 gallon IR compressor.


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Old 04-22-2018, 05:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Railroadman View Post
I'm going to be getting a larger air compressor at some point soon. I have a sand blast cabinet and it will need more than the small garage-size one in use now. I'm looking at this one: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...r?cm_vc=-10005

I will need to anchor the thing, and while it's not rocket science, putting anchor bolts in concrete is a new one for me.

1. How big a bolt should I use?

2. How deep in the concrete should I set them?

3. What drill should I get for making the holes?

4. As part of #3, what diameter hole in the concrete do I need?

5. Is regular Sack-crete from HD or Lowes OK?

6. Any other things I need to learn or take into account while planning?

I'll be away from the computer till Monday evening as it stands now, so may not acknowledge replies immediately.

Thanks in advance!
All our compressors are still on the pallets they were delivered in when new... I've never had the first issue with them and they are probably close to 30 years old.

However, I will say this... last year we switched to a low pressure valve and gun on all our blasters (3) and while we used to blast at 150 psi, we're blasting at 70 psi and getting better results... So you might want to consider a change in your nozzle and valve.

I can't express how much easier this has been on us (and our compressors) and how much nicer the cabinet is blasting since the change.

I did make a huge mistake in our large blaster doing a favor for a friend (cost me 400 bucks doing a favor)... I tanked a toy he was restoring for his son, when all the paint didn't come off in the tank, I put it in the large blaster, the paint flaked off and boy what an issue it caused... It kept stopping up the blaster so after four times in a week I caved and had all the sand removed from it... ( It holds 600 lbs of sand). Then, while picking up the new sand the guy driving my shop truck ran over a gutter spike in the side wall of my tire.. So sand, labor to clean and remove the sand and then a new tire later... I was up and running.

I'll look tomorrow and see if I can dig up the links to what we purchased but I'm tickled to death at how great the blasters work.

Willcox
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Old 04-22-2018, 05:46 PM
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Pop Chevy
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I found no need to bolt my 60 ga single stage down either. Been there for 13 yrs now and it's starting to get tired, however it's been used hard daily.
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Old 04-22-2018, 05:54 PM
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I have the five horse Campbell hausfeild sixty gallon tank, I never bolted it down.. Has not moved in twenty five years...
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Old 04-22-2018, 06:22 PM
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Roger Walling
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If you bolt it tightly to the floor, in time it may crack the area where the feet are welded to the tank and cause it to leak.
I have seen it happen.

Some states require a certain distance to the floor.
In Ma. it is 12" floor to tank.

Make sure that you have a LARGE fan aimed at the cooling coils if you expect to do much sandblasting.

Last edited by Roger Walling; 04-22-2018 at 06:34 PM.
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Old 04-22-2018, 06:26 PM
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This is the valve we used on the blasters..

https://www.idsblast.com/sandblasting-supplies/713

This is the gun..

Amazon Amazon

Last edited by Willcox Corvette; 04-22-2018 at 06:28 PM.
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Old 04-22-2018, 06:29 PM
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I would bolt it to a 3 x 3 ft sheet of 5/8 or 3/4 plywood and call it good.

Larry
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Old 04-22-2018, 07:35 PM
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install a valve and hose at the bottom for the moisture removal...you will be glad that there is a valve and hose....BEFORE you anchor it down....
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Old 04-22-2018, 09:11 PM
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Another "kept it on the pallet" here. 60 gallon 6hp as memory serves.

Never a problem with it moving, though I had to change out the pressure switch and do regular maintenance to empty water from the tank.



-- Joe
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