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[C2] Lead additive

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Old 04-26-2018, 07:28 PM
  #61  
C2 Hot Cam Guy
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink

I don’t use any of the additional goo and I guarantee you my engine stats will stand up to yours. Spend your money if it makes you happy.
Sorry you are so childish
Old 04-26-2018, 07:54 PM
  #62  
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Originally Posted by C2 Hot Cam Guy
Sorry you are so childish
just because he doesn't use any of your products and has no i'll effects and has no problems doesn't mean hes childish. I am in the same boat Franks in. seems to me your the childish one being upset by others who doesn't use anything and has no problems while you use them with no problems.


most if not all the stuff on the market is marketing at its finest and brain washing. the sky hasn't fallen yet
Old 04-28-2018, 11:19 AM
  #63  
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Originally Posted by JimE
What, if any, fuel additive do you guys use in your small blocks?
Just listen to Jim Lockwood and be done with it!
Old 04-29-2018, 11:24 AM
  #64  
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Most if not all are snake oil
Old 04-30-2018, 02:55 PM
  #65  
67air
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If you want to add anything, put 2 oz of marvel mystery oil to every 20 gals. I've always used it & it really helps with the upper end lubrication. An old mechanic told me that when I was a kid. Never let me down.
Old 04-30-2018, 03:45 PM
  #66  
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Does it also put carbon on the plugs, combustion chamber and cut power?
Old 04-30-2018, 03:58 PM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Does it also put carbon on the plugs, combustion chamber and cut power?
No. I change my plugs every Spring weather they need it or not. Just a habit like doing my oil each Spring. The plugs are always a nice light gray as they should be. Go to you local auto parts store or just read up on it.

But that lead additive is just plain JUNK.
Old 04-30-2018, 04:06 PM
  #68  
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Originally Posted by 67air
No. I change my plugs every Spring weather they need it or not. Just a habit like doing my oil each Spring. The plugs are always a nice light gray as they should be. Go to you local auto parts store or just read up on it.

But that lead additive is just plain JUNK.
Could you possibly send me your old worn out plugs? I'll take used oil as well if it only has several hundred miles on it.

Last edited by MikeM; 04-30-2018 at 04:07 PM.
Old 04-30-2018, 04:47 PM
  #69  
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Originally Posted by MikeM
Could you possibly send me your old worn out plugs? I'll take used oil as well if it only has several hundred miles on it.
Old 04-30-2018, 04:58 PM
  #70  
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............and your recappable used bias ply tires if you don't want to ride on them.

Old 04-30-2018, 05:02 PM
  #71  
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For some reason this is a religion here..

Valve seat recession is real.. talk to anyone in a machine shop.. Did it happen with leaded gas? Yes, for sure.. but here is the fact that is beyond argument: The motors were designed to use leaded fuel to lubricate and cool the valves and seats.

Not having the lead in the fuel will accelerate the wear. It's not debatable. How much? That's the real question.. and it depends a lot on driving style.

I run Octane Supreme 130.. as mentioned above, it's the only additive that contains actual TEL. I have an LT-1 (11:1) that pings badly on 91 (best we get in Cali).

Last edited by SDVette; 04-30-2018 at 05:03 PM.
Old 04-30-2018, 05:39 PM
  #72  
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Sure Mike send over a couple 5 Gal Jugs & help yourself. When you have a car as valuable as ours , whats 30 bucks worth in oil. To me it's REAL cheap insurance.
Old 04-30-2018, 05:41 PM
  #73  
67air
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If I don't use 100---110 octance in my66/425 it pings when you shut it off. NOT GOOD.
Old 04-30-2018, 06:49 PM
  #74  
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Originally Posted by 67air
If I don't use 100---110 octance in my66/425 it pings when you shut it off. NOT GOOD.
You need to fix your car. Not add band aids.
Old 04-30-2018, 08:28 PM
  #75  
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I agree. Cars tend to ping only under load...not being shut down in neutral. If it is dieseling (running on), there are other issues happening: too high an idle speed, too hot an engine, etc. that need to be addressed.
Old 04-30-2018, 09:37 PM
  #76  
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Originally Posted by GTOguy
I agree. Cars tend to ping only under load...not being shut down in neutral. If it is dieseling (running on), there are other issues happening: too high an idle speed, too hot an engine, etc. that need to be addressed.

...AND the ported vacuum advance that was OE on ALL L-72s, not just those shipped to California.

Duke
Old 04-30-2018, 11:14 PM
  #77  
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Original owner installed a L-88 cam for SCCA Sunday racing. 1300 Is idle speed. We estimate it is making close to 650 HP.Hooker side pipes 1-baffle. Car has been in that configuration along with original paint interior etc since 1967---Changing nothing---

that MAY have a little bit to do with it.

This is one well documented ex Scca Racer.

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Old 04-30-2018, 11:17 PM
  #78  
67air
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Forgot to mention the BIG cam. -----With 110 leaded this car will SMOKE my L-71.
Old 05-01-2018, 07:48 AM
  #79  
Frankie the Fink
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99.9% of the use our dainty vintage classics are put to won't require the lead - its that simple. Fact is, valvetrain components/seats wear WITH lead; on any engine that runs....maybe that occurs in 50 years instead of 48.

Citing the fact your valve seats looked great with the heads removed because you use lead additives is specious; mine look good too without the lead. The only velvetrain work I've done on my regularly driven classics since lead disappeared was replacement of valve seals....



.
Old 05-01-2018, 10:05 AM
  #80  
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink
99.9% of the use our dainty vintage classics.. maybe that occurs in 50 years instead of 48.
My point is that these numbers (99.9%, and 48 years) are guesses, based on your experience and 'gut'.

It might be 75% and 12 years.

You don't know. And I don't know either. That's all I'm saying.



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