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toe-in, just to be sure..

Old 05-14-2018, 08:16 PM
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wmf62
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Originally Posted by GTOguy
Mike is right. The measurement of B never changes. Because toe-in and toe-out is measured at the front of the tire, not the rear.
it is the net difference between a & c, b doesn't count

Bill
Old 05-14-2018, 08:18 PM
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Originally Posted by Chuck Gongloff
You had me scared there for a minute, Mike.

B & C.. is correct.
nope
Old 05-14-2018, 08:20 PM
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Originally Posted by DansYellow66
I think there are two realities here. If you are working on a proper alignment rack then it's B & C and it will tell you toe in/out in fractions of inch or degrees. If you are a do-it-yourselfer in your home garage with a tram gage - then it's A & C because that's what the gage measures. A tram gage is limited in what it can do and not as accurate. And a tram gage will only determines total toe in/out and not individual wheel toe in/out.


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Old 05-14-2018, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by wmf62
nope
You are wrong and I am right. Total toe, either negative or postive is measured ONLY in front of the wheels, either front or rear.

Total toe is the sum of the left and right wheels, additive.

If you're talking this degree stuff and not fractions in settings, I know nothing about this set up.

You can easily look this stuff upin the factory shop manuals.
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Old 05-14-2018, 11:47 PM
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from:
http://free-ed.net/sweethaven/mechte...s.asp?iNum=126

Figure 12-53 — Tram gauge.
The procedures for using a tram gauge for measuring toe are as follows:
Raise the front wheels of the vehicle and rub a chalk line all the way around the center rib on each tire.
With a scribing tool, rotate each tire and scribe a fine line on the chalk line. This will give you a very thin reference line for measuring the distance between the tires.
Lower the vehicle back on the turning radius gauges.
Position the tram gauge at the back of the tires. Move the pointers until they line up with the scribe marks on the tires.
Without bumping the tram gauge pointers, reposition the gauge to the front of the tires. The difference between the lines on the front and rear of the tires shows toe.
If the lines on the front of the tires are closer together than on the rear, the wheels are toed-in. If the lines are the same distance apart at the front and rear, toe is zero. Use the manufacturer’s service manual for specifications and adjustment procedures.


Bill
Old 05-15-2018, 12:36 AM
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Mike is correct again, sorry to say

What Bill has posted above is just a simplistic determination of whether there is toe in or toe out; note that it refers us to the vehicle service manual for actual measurements.

That's why it's called TOE, not HEEL AND TOE

Total toe is just the sum of both sides.

Last edited by SW Vette; 05-15-2018 at 12:37 AM.
Old 05-15-2018, 01:54 AM
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still, my original question is not answered: if a manual says to dial in 1/32" of toe-in, what do they refer to?
Old 05-15-2018, 03:32 AM
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Originally Posted by alexandervdr
still, my original question is not answered: if a manual says to dial in 1/32" of toe-in, what do they refer to?
Assuming that is a "per side" spec, it means the front of each wheel should be 1/32" IN from parallel to the vehicle centerline, resulting in "total" toe-in of 1/16".
Old 05-15-2018, 04:16 AM
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Originally Posted by SW Vette
Mike is correct again, sorry to say

What Bill has posted above is just a simplistic determination of whether there is toe in or toe out; note that it refers us to the vehicle service manual for actual measurements.

That's why it's called TOE, not HEEL AND TOE

Total toe is just the sum of both sides.
simplistic, or not, that is a method of determining and setting toe using A&C. but as the OP just said, what does the toe spec really mean; a total or an individual side... depending on your perspective, both make sense except total is twice individual; so what does the spec REALLY mean??? too much toe is not a good thing.. IF a spec says "1/8" toe, is that 1/16 + 1/16 or 1/8 + 1/8 (God forbid...); I 'vote' total... negative toe on the backside (C) is the same dimension as positive toe on the front side (A)

generically, I don't have a clue... all I have ever done is use a tram or tape to set total toe and then adjust side-to-side (if necessary) in order to center the steering wheel

I found this as an explanation of how to interpret the meaning of the amount of toe from the manufacturers specs:
http://aligncraft.com/terms/terms.html#Front toe

Measuring Toe
Toe on an individual tire/wheel assembly is understood to be the difference between the distance of the front and rear of one tire in reference to the vehicle centerline. Since most alignment specifications show toe as total toe, i.e. both wheels, it is important to understand two points: (1) 1/2 of the specified total toe should be applied to each front wheel. (2) a minus(-) sign would actually indicate a toe-out setting as being specified. It is important to note that although toe has historically been measured as a distance in fractions of an inch, and then decimal inches, it is becoming more common for vehicle manufacturers to express toe in degrees. The idea is that the angle, rather than an arbitrary distance, determines the side slip of the tire and the resulting scrub of the tread. This should not be affected by the tire size, but rather should be constant for a given measurement. Most alignment equipment displays toe-out as a minus (-) and toe-in as a positive (+).


Bill

I will concede that Mike is correct in explaining what toe is (the relationship between B & C), and I will maintain that measuring A & C is a way of actually determining and getting there for those who do not have access to sophisticated alignment equipment as there is no other practical way of determining the steering axis of rotation of the wheel.

Last edited by wmf62; 05-15-2018 at 05:05 AM.
Old 05-15-2018, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by alexandervdr
still, my original question is not answered: if a manual says to dial in 1/32" of toe-in, what do they refer to?
It's been answered several times in confusing ways. Never mind the term "total toe".

If your info says to set your toe in at 1/32, that means 1/32 on each wheel, which means between the two tires, you now have 1/16 toe in, total from the vehicle center line.

If you are setting your toe in in your driveway, using a tram gauge on the front and rear side of the tire will assist you in finding the actual track width. It won't tell you where the vehicle center line is.

The best thing to do is forget all this stuff and take your vehicle to an alignment shop that can do a four wheel alignment that establishes the correct thrust angle. I don't know how you can duplicate this with a string and/or a tram gauge.

https://www.knowyourparts.com/techni...-thrust-angle/

Last edited by MikeM; 05-15-2018 at 07:43 AM.
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Old 05-15-2018, 07:53 AM
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When my trailing arms are re-bushed you can bet I'm off to Mssr. Malone to get the job done right...
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:14 AM
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Originally Posted by MikeM
It's been answered several times in confusing ways. Never mind the term "total toe".

If your info says to set your toe in at 1/32, that means 1/32 on each wheel, which means between the two tires, you now have 1/16 toe in, total from the vehicle center line.

https://www.knowyourparts.com/techni...-thrust-angle/
getting closer! tnx
So if a spec says 1/32" toe-in , it means 1/32" inch against the car centreline and measured from wheel center to tire edge. Is this picture correct then?
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Old 05-15-2018, 08:27 AM
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My 66 AIM

UPC 3 A7 defines PER WHEEL toe in as x-y (A-C). Seems to me that would be total toe in. (UPC 4 B6 for rear toe in)
Old 05-15-2018, 08:39 AM
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Originally Posted by alexandervdr
getting closer! tnx
So if a spec says 1/32" toe-in , it means 1/32" inch against the car centreline and measured from wheel center to tire edge. Is this picture correct then?
the confusion is not getting any clearer...

read # 30s bold quote. unless the quote is wrong, I interpret it that toe-in specs are given as 'total', unless otherwise noted as individual. if that's the case, then your sketch depicted as 1/32 each side would be a 1/16th toe spec.

everyone is right about one thing; take it to an expert



Bill
Old 05-15-2018, 08:46 AM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink


When my trailing arms are re-bushed you can bet I'm off to Mssr. Malone to get the job done right...
I suggest a 4-wheel alignment done on a machine capable of doing both ends at once; otherwise you risk 2 separate perfect alignments but with a vehicle that dog-tracks...

Bill
Old 05-15-2018, 08:49 AM
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I'm not worried..
Old 05-15-2018, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by wmf62
the confusion is not getting any clearer...

read # 30s bold quote. unless the quote is wrong, I interpret it that toe-in specs are given as 'total', unless otherwise noted as individual. if that's the case, then your sketch depicted as 1/32 each side would be a 1/16th toe spec.

everyone is right about one thing; take it to an expert



Bill
The reason I want to know is that there are no expert around where I live...
Besides that, it's quite disturbing to have scrolled through tens of threads on wheel alignment where members argue about small and precise alignement tweaks, and now learning that there is no common understanding/definition and can have those numbers change by a factor of 2

Last edited by alexandervdr; 05-15-2018 at 08:54 AM.

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Old 05-15-2018, 09:00 AM
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I'm all about strings, levels and toe-in gauges these days.

When doing a 4 wheel alignment on these old, not precision built cars. Do they go off the body or the chassis to get the right thrust angles?

I recently did my CTS coupe using the body rocker pinch welds and got good results, but these cars being uni-body make this less complicated.
Old 05-15-2018, 09:00 AM
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Originally Posted by alexandervdr
The reason I want to know is that there are no expert around where I live...
Besides that, it's quite disturbing to have scrolled through tens of threads on wheel alignment where members argue about small and precise alignement tweaks, and now learning that there is no common understanding/definition and changes those numbers by a factor of 2
Alex
I apologize if I've added to the confusion... all I know for sure is how I have set alignment using hand tools.

and, i'm sure I've added to the confusion by arguing about what toe-in is by mixing in how I set toe-in.

66RBS's info (post 34) from the AIM seems to correlate with what I believe toe-in specs to be specified as, unless noted otherwise; total toe. with each wheel being 1/2 of that distance from the axial centerline of rotation...

take all we've said into consideration, and let Google and the manufacture's instructions be the referee. I think we're all talking about the same thing but from different directions......



Bill

Last edited by wmf62; 05-15-2018 at 09:05 AM.
Old 05-15-2018, 09:32 AM
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Originally Posted by alexandervdr
getting closer! tnx
So if a spec says 1/32" toe-in , it means 1/32" inch against the car centreline and measured from wheel center to tire edge. Is this picture correct then?
Where you are reading this "spec" may have everything to do with the confusion. So where did you get it? !/32" toe in from center line on each front wheel is correct for a mid year Corvette with radial tires. Add these two numbers for total toe.

If the front wheels are straight/parallel with the car center line, you have 0 toe. Period!

If you have one tire toed in a 1/32" and the other straight/parallel with the car, you have 1/32" total toe or 1/32" toe on one wheel. Theoretically, in a perfect world, this will throw your steering wheel clear vision off center.

If you have both the left and right wheels toed in 1/32" each from the car center line, you now have a total toe in of 1/16".

In all cases, whatever toe in you have at the front of the wheels should be equally matched as toe outon the back side of wheel unless something is bent. One dimension should cancel the other in relation to car center line.

You are way overthinking something that is very simple.

Last edited by MikeM; 05-15-2018 at 09:38 AM.

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