Railroadman

Joe, I have the main part, and the front extension, already built, including casters. I believe the plans are from a Noland Adams book but I got them on line.

The back part has been suggested for convertibles as they have less structural rigidity. I'm just going to duplicate the front but with dimensions modified to fit the back.

I'm headed to Home Depot in a bit, then out to where the car is. Back here tomorrow night, hopefully with pics of the completed dolly. One of the guys who will be helping me is camping this weekend so probably will not get it lifted for a while yet.

I DO appreciate the offer - thanks!

watson

When I did my 67, I pulled the doors off before the body lift. Two reasons, first they are going to come off anyway and I wanted to stabilize the body while still on the frame with the original shims etc. When the doors were removed, I put a steel bar from the hinge to the striker plate on each side to give the body the strength it needs. I used the stuff that they use to mount electrical boxes. It is very strong and it comes with lots of holes to use in mounting. The second reason was to reduce the weight of the body. The doors are very heavy if the have the windows etc inside. I used a two post lift and it went very well after I made up some extensions to go from the lift arm to the frame. I also built my dolly out of steel box tubing so that I could move the mounts around in all directions. I did add adjustable bars to the rear for extra support and I think that is a good plan. The open cars are very fragile with the rear end hanging out unsupported.

Good luck,

Doc

firstgear

remove the tires and have the drums sitting on the dollies and it gives your more lifting room since the car is sitting lower to start....

firstgear

I am sure your neighbors were wondering who was getting hung when you started your structure!

Railroadman

Frame is so bad I'm not going to jack it any more until the body is off.

hcallaway

I would love the C2 Body Dolly Kit as well. Thanks Holt

65tripleblack

That's it. Mine came from Noland Adams C2 restoration book.

I left the doors on for more rigidity. I also rigged a pair of cables criss crossed between the windshield frame back to the anchors for the deck hinges, using turnbuckles to tighten/tension. If you look close you can faintly make them out in the pics.

Good luck!

Joe

midyear

I use a 2 post lift all the time to pull the body off, lifted this one today, its easy on a 2 post.

pop23235

Hey! I recognize those guys!

outofspec

I pulled the body with an engine hoist the summer before last. Not hard, but a little unnerving, seeing the entire body hanging from a chain link. I took a suggestion I found in a previous post and cut the lifting sling free of the D-ring, and installed som ratchets on each strap. It helped tighten and balance the load, and alleviated the problem of having to figure out a way to shorten the too long sling. See picture. I also had to widen the ends of the sling that hooks to the bird cage for the lift. They were too narrow and didn’t grip. Test your fit before lift day.
Whether you move the hoist or move the chassis on cradles or move your body cart around, those little wheels don’t like stones and any kind of debris in the way. Make sure your area is free of obstruction before you begin. It was a nail bitter while everything is in the air. Good luck.

99Silverbullet

I used a 2 post lift and wife was my beer assistant

pop23235

What is the purpose of the orange ratchet strap?

99Silverbullet

Hold the body on the lift

65tripleblack

Holt,

Was not able to locate it online. It's probably somewhere in NCRS archives and I am no longer an NCRS member so have no access.

I will look in my files/notes in a couple days and get back to you.

Joey Cacciatore

mark6669

Wow I have never seen a brick garage door before!
Mark

Railroadman

Well, this forum is truly amazing! I was about to detail my latest headache out there and ask for suggestions. I log on here and OutOfSpec has already addressed it.

I was going to make a post asking if anyone had a helicopter I could borrow, because that sling they sell is way longer than it needs to be. After my motor hoist didn't even come close, I did some measuring, figured I MIGHT just make it, reinforced a couple roof trusses, removed some of the drop ceiling, and here's what I wound up with:







Before I even re-positioned the come-along I could see it was not going to work - the chain sagged too much. the lift would be off center, and when I snugged it up to test, the roof gave some ominous noises and I was afraid something was going to shear or collapse.

At that point I just left everything and spent the rest of my time out there cleaning the shop, reorganizing stuff, and mowing the lawn. Now I come home and the answer awaits me (and I'm saying "why didn't I think of that?")

So OutOfSpec first let me say thanks! And my questions are 1) where did you buy the ratchets - I presume HD or HF has them? 2) Do you recall what length you made the cut at? 3) Box knife or other method of cutting?

Thanks!

Railroadman

There is more than one page, but I only have the main drawing at my fingertips. Thsi will give you the basic idea, and I'll bring the other part home next time I go out to the car, unless someone has it here by then.

Be advised the corners are a bit funky, apparently you have to make them pretty close to how he shows on the second page (which isn't here) to be sure the footwell sits down in.

Don't know if this is copyrighted or not, but I offer it here as a help to others, not to make any money myself if that will keep me out of jail!

outofspec

I'm glad the information was useful to you. The ratchet straps are just one of several solutions to the long sling I've seen guys post about. A couple of guys actually wound the long sling around some pieces of wood, and then c-clamped them together to take up slack. I prefer the ratchet strap, as it helps to balance the body a bit.
I got my straps on line at Ratchet Straps USA. https://www.ratchetstraps.com/ratchet-straps-wire-hooks
They're described as: 2" Ratchet Strap Short End W/ Wire Hook. It's just the ratchet with a short maybe 10" strap and a hook at the end. $6.95 each, you need four. No part number on my receipt. I think I also saw them at our local farm supply store for a little bit more money. Go to the web site and you'll see a pic of them. I cut the sling close to the D-Ring, with a box blade and straight edge, and cauterized the end with a small flame; you know to melt a bit of nylon and prevent fraying. Save the D-Ring, you'll need it to go between the lift hook on the hoist and the four strap hooks. Also make sure you've got the strap threaded through the ratchet the correct way. I'm not a big ratchet strap guy, so I had to triple check to make sure it was threaded properly locked and secure. It's kind of a science project to figure out the geometry of the length of the strap you want and the height your lift will raise, along with where the pull point is to get a balanced lift that will clear the chassis.

Railroadman

OK, that makes even more sense now. Just lop off the ring ends at the D-ring and leave most of the strap, because I can always just thread that through. Excellent! Got to go to Tractor Supply one of these days, might hold off on ordering until I see if they have them.

Much appreciated!