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Need help getting car started

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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 07:16 PM
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Default Need help getting car started

did some ignition tune up work to car over weekend. Changed plugs , points , condenser , rotor and cap and coil.

At one point after changing everything out car had no spark through ignition wires. Kept changing new and older parts around thinking I had maybe bought one defective item and at some point the cars started and ran good enough for test drive but not right. Breaking up at 2/3k a little and sputtering at steady rpm in fourth gear not bad but not smooth like it was before I tuned it up , lol. Car also would bog ( after tune up not before ) with a quick stab of the trottle

now next day go to start car and it won’t start. It appears to try and start with several fires but for not actually start.

Pulled a plug it was wet with fuel. Let’s car sit for hours and tried again got same result trying to start by not starting .

Changed Coil back to older coil no difference checked voltage in and out of resistor it is within range.

Don’t want to risk damage to started. Or pull out all plugs if I don’t have to. Hands are
atill bleedimg from changes plugs the first time.

Any and all advice greatly appreciated.

Car is 1965 327/365 recent purchase. All stock as far as I know and can tell

getting a little better with my multi meter. Is there
Way to see if car if getting enough spark to plugs since doing all the ignition work

car had ac r 45 plugs and now has ac r 45s plugs

I am suspicious that what ever caused car not to start at all after intitial parts replacement is now causing prOblem again maybe ground in distributor ? The wire looks ok from the end I can see.

Please help
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 07:26 PM
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Take the distributor cap off and turn engine to close points and check from the coil (-) to the engine with your ohm meter to make sure the ground path is good. I would start there plus are you sure the point gap is set right.
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 07:33 PM
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Are you sure you got your plug wires back in the correct order? Double check. Very common error.
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 07:50 PM
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Originally Posted by tbarb
Take the distributor cap off and turn engine to close points and check from the coil (-) to the engine with your ohm meter to make sure the ground path is good. I would start there plus are you sure the point gap is set right.

with multi meter set on 200 and checking with key in between negative amp de of coil and both ground strap and negative terminal of battery I get .02 ? What does that mean ?

The dwell on points was set on 30 , unless they moved ? I can see they are opening an closing still . Will
check initial with feeer gage again.

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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 07:53 PM
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Originally Posted by jprop
Are you sure you got your plug wires back in the correct order? Double check. Very common error.
yes was very careful with this and numbered each wire with tape before changing caps .
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 07:58 PM
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start fresh put the motor on top dead center and make sure your rotor is still pointing at number 1
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 08:04 PM
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Point gap is right at 19
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 08:10 PM
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Do you have, or can get your hands on, a dwell meter and a timing light? You'll need them to sort this out.
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 08:36 PM
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Originally Posted by LB66383
Do you have, or can get your hands on, a dwell meter and a timing light? You'll need them to sort this out.

yes have both dwell meter and timing light
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 08:42 PM
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Im gonna start with the basics. Do you have power to the coil? If yes, pull a plug wire, put a fresh plug in the spark plug boot, hold the plug threads against exhaust manifold while your assistant turns the key. Do you see spark ?
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 08:44 PM
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Originally Posted by Boyan
Im gonna start with the basics. Do you have power to the coil? If yes, pull a plug wire, put a fresh plug in the spark plug boot, hold the plug threads against exhaust manifold while your assistant turns the key. Do you see spark ?
yes
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 08:47 PM
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The car is trying to start and even runs rough for a few seconds then dies as try to keep it running
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 08:49 PM
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Sounds like it’s out of time. Did you double check TDC and the firing order?
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 08:50 PM
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sounds like fuel is pushing past the needle/seat, wetting your plugs. I’d pull a plug and see if its wet. If so, carb issue.
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 08:53 PM
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Or check what Keith above said....its easier to re set timing then tear the carb apart now.
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Boyan
Or check what Keith above said....its easier to re set timing then tear the carb apart now.
He said it ran before he started the tune up. So I doubt the carb is at fault. It might need adjusted but not causing his problem
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 09:08 PM
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I did double check timing I verified damper mark last week using Lars method and at that time are timing up from scratch and car ran well ( yes I know should have left it alone then ) but although it was running smooth didn’t feel like a 365 should and would not rev past 5700 rpm so decided
a fresh tune up was In
order since I recently bought car and had no idea how long it had been since last time up.

I did just pull three plugs on drivers side they were all wet. I dried them off and put them back in. Car tries to fire but just doesn’t start.

Re confirmed tdc and rotor position just to edge of number one wire .

Bare with me on typos doing this on phone with without glasses.
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 09:14 PM
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And that rotor is at #1 on compression stroke? If that is the case I would get a helper to turn the key while you slightly try to rotate the distubrutor and or try a new set of points if you think you didn’t bump the distubrutor
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 09:19 PM
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All signs point to a misplaced plug wire.

Tune-up used to consist of plugs, points, condenser. If old and in questionable condition, then rotor, cap, and wires.

You just got the car and know nothing of the internal condition of the engine; have you checked compression and valve lash?

When trying to diagnose a problem, never change too many variables at once or it becomes difficult to isolate the real issue.
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Old Jun 4, 2018 | 09:20 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man
And that rotor is at #1 on compression stroke? If that is the case I would get a helper to turn the key while you slightly try to rotate the distubrutor and or try a new set of points if you think you didn’t bump the distubrutor

i may try putting old points back in tomorrow , out of steam tonight.

Is the ohm reading I got on the negative side of coil correct ?

Out of town for a few days for work tomorrow will see what happens when I get back

but car did run just yesterday with current everything , timing etc. drove it for about ten miles is was running ok but not super smooth with a very slight skip and then when parked it just won’t start again but is almost starting

too tired now. Appreciate everyone’s advice and help.

Not possible these extended tip plugs can be causing a pRoblem ?
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