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Cost of decent paint job

Old 01-22-2019, 06:21 PM
  #221  
MOXIE62
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Originally Posted by Jackfit View Post
I backed into a pole. Middle of rear between bumpers. To repair and fix cracks and other repairs done earlier and bonding strips..& clear coat base coat, put back bumpers, lights etc. Was $6,000 in Maine.

Most of cost was labor. 20-30 hrs of block sanding to make lines sharp. Two other shops in Maine wanted $ 7,000 to $10,000. If I did front Add $6,000 to $8,000. Total car would have been close to $15,000. I do not throw money away....that is what it costs to have a good job done by others.

Paint was $2,000 Spies Heckler....

jack
Never heard of spies heckler paint until I purchased my car and found out that is what they used. Good to hear someone else has used it.
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Old 01-22-2019, 06:27 PM
  #222  
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About 8k each for both 5 years ago. Typical crack repairs etc, keep looking.



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Old 01-22-2019, 06:28 PM
  #223  
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Originally Posted by MikeM View Post

If a shop has too much overhead and can't make a profit on paint jobs alone, looks to me like he should turn the work away and do something else instead of burdening the customer with his fixed, "too high" costs. .

Commercial businesses are not the only place to get a quality job, no mater what your standard is.
All my paint jobs were done in shops where the owner also did a bunch of the body work (and actually was the spray guy on every job in all of the shops i used), not just sit in an office and tell his secretary and accountant and estimator and janitor what they needed to do. Some of the shops also did collision work about 50/50 vs paint only, others worked only on collectible type cars doing body and paint.

Maybe thats why i paid 1/3 as much for a better paint job than other people paid.
Doug

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Old 01-22-2019, 06:32 PM
  #224  
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Originally Posted by MOXIE62 View Post
Never heard of spies heckler paint until I purchased my car and found out that is what they used. Good to hear someone else has used it.
Its spelled Spies Hecker, but yes, that is the brand of paint on my '61 Corvette and the '37 Ford pickup. One of my painters told me if you use one brand of paint, use their clear and primer also, you can get into problems using one outfits primer,and someone elses paint, etc.

Doug

Last edited by AZDoug; 01-22-2019 at 06:33 PM.
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Old 01-22-2019, 07:32 PM
  #225  
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My painter gave me his hourly rate and what typical processes cost. He told me I could do as much as I could to save money and even told me how he would do certain things and what he uses. I found a lot of good painters but finding people that do proper fiberglass repair was another story. In the OP’s original post he said the paint is 97% original with touch ups and typical paint cracks. What causes typical cracks? Joint shrinkage? 50 year old paint degrading? Damage from underneath? I have no clue. The OP also stated he knew it depended on the level of prep work though he never said what he expected.

I think you can get excellent work from a broad price range based on your own talents or finding good talent at a great price. My hat is off to you that can do it yourself. I think I could do my repairs but I don’t really want to experiment on this one. Plus I don’t have the room or probably the patience for all that sanding. So I have ended killing my budget for now but I have peace of mind knowing that my body work was done by someone who has been doing this 30 years and it will be right for even my son to enjoy throughout his lifetime. Part of my higher price overall is that I am having them reinstall all the glass and seals as well as remove and reinstall the body. So maybe I’m not to far off on just paint and primer as the extras add up. At least if my son just paints the car in 25 years he will only have a paint price and not body repairs. Of course one wreck throws that out the window. So I will be saving up a little longer to finish the car now.

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Old 01-22-2019, 08:01 PM
  #226  
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Like Rob 64-365 stated in post # 176 where the paint man said what is under the paint? Unless you are going to spray over the existing paint job, what is going on under that many years old existing paint job?
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Old 01-22-2019, 08:09 PM
  #227  
Roger Walling
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Mike M,
I do have to agree with you that you can get a good paint job from a man working on his own at $15/HR.
Without the ridiculous overhead of insurance (what if your car gets burned up while in his care?)
So what if the man does not have health insurance and is out of work for two months?(So what if your car sits for 2 or 3 months)
If a dust storm blows up and under his garage door and covers your new wet paint? (he will have to buff it out at only $15/hr)
Overhead heat is no problem either. ( He can just wait to summer to paint it)

I can see getting a $5000 perfect paint job' if you don't care about the painter's family.
Somehow I feel that you have never owned a business.
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Old 01-22-2019, 08:36 PM
  #228  
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Originally Posted by elwood13 View Post
In the OPís original post he said the paint is 97% original with touch ups and typical paint cracks. What causes typical cracks? Joint shrinkage? 50 year old paint degrading? Damage from underneath? I have no clue. The OP also stated he knew it depended on the level of prep work though he never said what he expected.
Typical paint cracks for my car were on top of typical resin rich cracks in the sharp edges of the fiberglass. Mostly around the hood surround and the trunk surround. I had already removed most of the front cap because it had a poor hand laid wheel well forward repair so I took the entire surround off and replaced it, only to find the same cracks in the new surround. When you get the paint off there are a lot of cracks in a 50-60 year old body. But nothing says you can't just sand it down and and prime over it
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Old 01-22-2019, 10:21 PM
  #229  
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Originally Posted by Robert61 View Post
But nothing says you can't just sand it down and and prime over it
Have you observed the final paint results with that method?

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Old Yesterday, 08:32 PM
  #230  
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Originally Posted by Roger Walling View Post
Mike M,

I can see getting a $5000 perfect paint job' if you don't care about the painter's family.
Somehow I feel that you have never owned a business.

I wanted to wait until this thread had apparently run it's course so now, it's time to respond to your kind of thinking. Don't you just love this kind of logic?

I started out selling encyclopedias door/door and then the internet came along so no need to look in the book, just make a few key strokes and the knowledge is right in front of you for almost free.

So, I decided to start selling vacuum cleaners door/door because everyone has a dirty rug don't they? But in all my sales adventures, I don't recall ever once knocking anything off the going price, depending on how many dependents I saw hiding behind the door. After all, I raised three of them myself so I have a fair idea what's fair.

PS. I later owned (still do) a successful real estate and home construction company.but I don't recall ever knocking off the price of the home or the property parcel because of how many dependents the buyer had. And all of those buyers now live in a more expensive house than I do.

You are a tribute to your fellow man. You're welcome.

Last edited by MikeM; Yesterday at 08:33 PM.
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Old Yesterday, 09:12 PM
  #231  
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It seems like the more the paint job cost, the longer they say the primer takes to dry.

Does it really take 30-50 days for primer to dry before sanding??
Most primer paint cans say drying time is 12-24 hours before sanding.

Do the classic car shops say 3-6 months for a paint job just to justify the $11,000-$15,000 they charge you for a full body paint job.
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Old Yesterday, 09:23 PM
  #232  
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Something to consider is the real cost of a bad paint job.
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Old Yesterday, 10:00 PM
  #233  
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Originally Posted by CorvetteMikeB View Post

Does it really take 30-50 days for primer to dry before sanding??
Im no expert but apparently Its the new gel coat waiting game. That and time for the repaired areas and seam work to possibly fail. My body/paint guy was stressing hard but nailed it.

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Old Yesterday, 11:01 PM
  #234  
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On a typical show paint job, I sand the entire car at least 9 times, not including cut/buff. That's a lot of sanding my friends. I also wait 30 days for primer to cure before blocking on my high end stuff, a week or so on lesser cars. None of this is necessary if you don't mind seeing all the work through your final shine. Not saying lesser work doesn't show well, it can, but if you get up on it in the light, that's when you appreciate the time/money spent.
This aint selling vacuum cleaners or real estate, this is heavy, skilled labor that's harmful to one's health. That's well worth just compensation.
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Old Yesterday, 11:31 PM
  #235  
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Originally Posted by cbernhardt View Post
I made a paint booth in my shop. My wife is my painter. In the first picture below she is spraying base coat on my '59. Second picture is the final product - pretty good for a free (except for materials) paint job!
Nice! Is your wife married?
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