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what are you going to use for accelerator linkage? I suggest a cable as my bellcrank linkage is kind of 'notchy' going over center.
Bill
You can't see it in the photo, but there is now a lever in place of the cable mount on the throttle plate stud. (the throttle body is actually going to be mounted 180 degrees from its orientation in the photo, so the lever is on the proper side to work with the current linkage). It actually works quite well with the original linkage and the bellcrank that mounts on the stud you see still attached to the plenum.
I posted these photos earlier, but it shows what I intended to put together for my 63. Only thing lacking in these photos are the fuel lines. You may note that I altered the plenum holes to accept injectors. The blocks you see in the photo are to hold down the injector, feed fuel from the fuel tubing, and hide the wiring. The blocks will be painted black to look like the original ones and are held down by a double ended stud that threads into both the block and the plenum's existing 1/4 hole. I've thought about using the air meter and adding sensors to it, but that would ruin good air meter, so I got a stock throttle body and fabbed an adaptor. It uses a FAST EZEFI multiport system.
Right now I planning to assemble it all on the 383 I'm building.
This approach is very likely where I will end up as well.
I agree with Bill, the throttle linkage is very fiddly to get smooth. Because the throttle body spacer moves the pivot point outward I fabricated all new stainless linkage, thottle arm, bellcrank, links and mounting stud keeping the original geometry but spaced out the thickness of the spacer. I used the LS dual hairpin return springs so I didn't have to fiddle with the return spring arm on the new bellcrank. I used oilite bronze bushings to smooth the pivot. The final bit to get it smooth is a slight twist on the throttle body arm just like is found on the original air meter.
Vettrocious this may have fallen through the crack earlier but you can backchamfer the injector bores to protect the orings by finding a woodworking dovetail cutter and making a sleeve that centers the cutter in the injector bore. Chuck it up and gently pull it back from the bottom. The cutter angle is a bit off from ideal but you get a smoothed entry for the orings.
Grampy, I made a special tool that I inserted from above. It had a flat cutting surface to get a step in the hole. I found that trying to drive it with a drill on my test pieces was very difficult in aluminum, so I ended up turning by hand. I can make a similar tool with an angled cutting surface to cut the chamfer. Thanks, Mike
And so I am beginning to wonder if I might be better off buying a complete 63-65 Rochester FI system, pulling off the parts that I want, and then selling the rest of the parts.
There seems to be a good size market for 63-65 FI parts.
Perhaps if I started with a "complete" 63-65 FI unit that does not have a distributor or air cleaner assembly, and may also be a mix of parts from various years.
So let me take a stab at this idea.
Lets say I pay $6K for a complete FI system that is working, but doesn't inc'lude a distributor or air cleaner parts.
Lets also say it is a mix of 63-64-65 parts, but that all of the parts are in decent restorable (not broken, cracked,. etc.) shape.
Now, I will keep the intake manifold / baseplate, the plenum, the plenum lid, the fuel meter housing, the air meter "housing".
I would also possibly hold onto the spider, nozzles, and nozzle blocks.
All of the other parts would be up for sale.
Can anyone take a wild guess at what the remainder of the parts would be worth?
And so I am beginning to wonder if I might be better off buying a complete 63-65 Rochester FI system, pulling off the parts that I want, and then selling the rest of the parts.
There seems to be a good size market for 63-65 FI parts.
Perhaps if I started with a "complete" 63-65 FI unit that does not have a distributor or air cleaner assembly, and may also be a mix of parts from various years.
So let me take a stab at this idea.
Lets say I pay $6K for a complete FI system that is working, but doesn't inc'lude a distributor or air cleaner parts.
Lets also say it is a mix of 63-64-65 parts, but that all of the parts are in decent restorable (not broken, cracked,. etc.) shape.
Now, I will keep the intake manifold / baseplate, the plenum, the plenum lid, the fuel meter housing, the air meter "housing".
I would also possibly hold onto the spider, nozzles, and nozzle blocks.
All of the other parts would be up for sale.
Can anyone take a wild guess at what the remainder of the parts would be worth?
IFFFFFF you keep the parts you named......................what parts are left to sell?
Don't know, because I don't know what parts constitute a 63-65 FI system.
All internal parts of the Air Meter
All internal; parts of the Fuel Meter
Choke assembly
All of the tubes, lines, etc.
The Air meter external parts may not be needed, so that whole assembly may be available
I like your idea of buying a "complete" unit. That way you get all the basic parts you need. However, all these "basic" parts are the parts that represent the value of the unit. Yes, you can probably sell some of the smaller parts..................float, axle link assembly, spill valve and most importantly the high pressure pump (a valuable and much sought after part) from the fuel meter........................diffuser cone and piezometer ring from the air meter..................probably won't recover a lot of your investment but every little bit helps. I'm sure Jerry Bramlett, Jim Lockwood and Tom Parsons could offer much better advice than me.
And now I am sitting here thinking that if I buy a complete unit, I might as well get a correct complete unit, and put that on the car as is.
Ya beat me to it, Ed. As soon as you suggested buying a compleat FI unit, my first thought was to just use it. The Rochester FI is amazingly sophisticated, the engineering surprisingly elegant, and the operation of the unit is extremely reliable and driveable.
As a rocket surgeon, as you study it's intricacies I think you'll be impressed and want to embrace it as is.
I'm sure it's been done, but I don't recommend it. The Sting Ray era units are much more resistant to fuel perc and, in general, they flow better which means more power.
It will definitely work, but it is definitely 'out of place'....
i'm with Jim, if gasoline wasn't so crappy i'd still be running my complete FI (I still have it in a box...), it is awesome. C2s seem to deal better with the perc problem due to their fuel routing to and from the spider....
needless to say, I built my system to retain the "look", but to circumvent the perc problem; works well for me (although I still haven't got it tweaked as well as i'd like)
06-19-2018, 07:58 PM
