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That looks like my '65 "365" I owned back in 1977. This'65 unfortunately had the 250 HP motor. I wish it looked like yours, so original! But, that's what I purchased. I'm content with what I have, at this point. As Mater would say " Someday"
Thx, Sully
Update, so my garage gets a call from the machine shop. Machine shop says I need a new steel crank, my cam has one lobe rounded off and suggests a new timing chain. I already told them I'm not opposed to a beefier cam. Any suggestion as to a new cam, timing chain? They say the block still looks good. Block has already been bored out .30
327/250 HP original. He's looking for a used crank, thoughts vs. new? Thanks, Sully
Made a quick stop at the machine shop this am. A spun bearing seems to be the culprit. A new crank shaft, bored out to .40 over, new pistons, new cam and new lifters. He understands the need to keep the original pad #'s. Oh my wallet! Sully
Made a quick stop at the machine shop this am. A spun bearing seems to be the culprit. A new crank shaft, bored out to .40 over, new pistons, new cam and new lifters. He understands the need to keep the original pad #'s. Oh my wallet! Sully
"While you're in there...", you might as well have them drill the crank nose for a balancer bolt if it isn't already drilled; simplifies installation and removal of the harmonic damper.
Well, its been five weeks since I sent the '65 327 to the shop for a rebuild. Spun bearings. I'm supposed to get her back on Friday. Numerous parts for the rebuild. Here's the cam specs. Fingers crossed. Sully
New crank, new cam, pistons etc...
Well, I got my '65 back yesterday afternoon! New pistons,Cam, Crank, etc... Removal, motor work and replacement cost 6K. Broke my heart, but it was worth it. Still retains the born with block. Took it out last night to the local ice cream shop to meet my son ('93 Supra 900 HP) and his "tuner" buddies. Of course I had the oldest car there. Turbo's galore, some very fast cars. The '65 ran like a charm, more power and smooooth as butter. I was asked if I could smoke'm up as I left. I declined. Back in the saddle.
Oil capacity for 327 - 250 HP? I thought 5 qts. Shop put in 6 as per parts and labor sheet. No wonder why I'm leaking oil. Best way to reduce? Jacked it up and didn't find the source.
The chrome oil pan holds 5 qts, (plus 1, filter) according to the builder. He says 6 is correct no matter what the dip stick says. The dip stick reads 1/2 " over full line. Chrome oil stick also.
The chrome oil pan holds 5 qts, (plus 1, filter) according to the builder. He says 6 is correct no matter what the dip stick says. The dip stick reads 1/2 " over full line. Chrome oil stick also.
Sully:
Measure the dipstick external tube from tip to block. Also measure dipstick from upper seal to the FULL mark and to the ADD mark. One of us can measure our originals and advise if they agree or not. The actual dimensions are in the archives, but may be difficult to find the threads and check. These dimensions should not change with pan configurations.
Measured my 67 327/350 HP car for you. Dipstick external tube, block to end approx 9 inches. Dipstick from upper seal to FULL is approx 19-1/2 inches and to ADD 20-1/4 inches.
These values are close but not exact. Exact values from Chevrolet are in my files and the archives, and are given +/- 1/32 inch. I didn't have the time today to get it to this level of detail for you.
OK, OK, The latest skinny is: I have a coolant leak, but, my mechanic came to my house to see what the problem is. He's under there a few minutes and say's " Oh, boy" We have a problem! I'm about to toss my cookies. He sees a crack in the head. There's my coolant leak. I just spent $$$ to rebuild my 327. He stands behind his work and says he'll check with his engine builder to see if he has a double hump head on hand, or swap out or repair/fix the head. I've attached photo's of the crack. It appears to be where the bolt is. Suggestions? I know I want another head to swap out if possible. Can that be repaired?
06-27-2018, 05:34 AM
