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Hi everyone, now that I have the brakes, alternator and Holley under control I want to get my 66 up on jack stands today and check trans and diff fluid levels. This is a new ride foe me and as many know I am new to the hobby. IF either of the plugs are stuck wrench wise is it ok to use MAP gas on them to break them loose?
Before I did all that I'd let the plug soak overnight (maybe a couple of nights) with repeated shots of PB-Blaster or the like.....then get some 8-pt sockets (Amazon, Sears) that fit the square plugs and with a bit of an extension bar they should break loose without much effort. You'll use the sockets on transmission, differential and block engine drains too.
Rear axle plug should not be hard to remove. 8-point socket may work. I bought 8-points from Sears years ago just for this job and they would not fit the plug.........which is a cast dimension. But you might get lucky. Otherwise use a Cresent wrench.
Trans plug may be difficult, but I would remove it with trans cold and use a large (12-14 inch Cresent wrench adjusted tightly to the square plug. Use a bit of anti=seize when reinstalling.
The '57 I recently bought had a bunged up rear diff plug. So bad that I had to weld a bolt onto the existing square head to remove it so I could replace the fluid after changing out the rear pinion seal. Like some of the members suggested, a crescent wrench will, typically work, but make sure you can get a good grip on it. The trans plug should be pretty easy, since it is much wider than the rear diff plug which has very little meat to grab with a wrench.. A 9/16 open end should work fine on the trans plug.
Last edited by Dan Hampton; 06-21-2018 at 01:22 PM.
The 8-point sockets are a life (fastener) saver for sure. And come in handy on water pumps, blocks, transmissions, rear ends, you name it. A must have item if you have old cars!
The 8-point sockets are a life (fastener) saver for sure. And come in handy on water pumps, blocks, transmissions, rear ends, you name it. A must have item if you have old cars!
Thanks for all the input. Ordered a set of (6) 8 pointers 1/2" drive from Amazon (7/16"-3/4") for 19 bucks, free shipping. While waiting I am soaking everything is Blaster.
Thanks for all the input. Ordered a set of (6) 8 pointers 1/2" drive from Amazon (7/16"-3/4") for 19 bucks, free shipping. While waiting I am soaking everything is Blaster.
The 12-14 inch Cresent wrench is still the best removal tool for the trans plug........................and I have tried them all.
The thing is, with a frozen plug, with an 8-point socket and a breaker bar, you can really lean on it without the fear of rounding off the plug and ruining it. Can't say the same thing for a Crescent wrench. They work fine on non-frozen plugs, but can really round off a frozen one. An 8 point socket eliminates the possibility of rounding off the plug.
The thing is, with a frozen plug, with an 8-point socket and a breaker bar, you can really lean on it without the fear of rounding off the plug and ruining it. Can't say the same thing for a Crescent wrench. They work fine on non-frozen plugs, but can really round off a frozen one. An 8 point socket eliminates the possibility of rounding off the plug.
The thing is, with a frozen plug, with an 8-point socket and a breaker bar, you can really lean on it without the fear of rounding off the plug and ruining it. Can't say the same thing for a Crescent wrench. They work fine on non-frozen plugs, but can really round off a frozen one. An 8 point socket eliminates the possibility of rounding off the plug.
I use an original Crescent Wrench..........not a cheap knock-off. A 12 inch or a 15 inch (I have both). I use WD-40 on the adjustment mechanism to ensure that I have a solid bite on the square plug with no slop.
FWIW. I think we have taken this as far as it needs to go at this point. Let us know what works for you or if you still have issues.
All valid points. Like most challenges in life there is more than one approach, many will work. The overall point is proceed with caution so as not to turn a seemingly simple task into a unpleasant project. Just finished re-plumbing all the steel brake lines on mine from the MC to both front calipers because the last guy that worked on it apparently operated under the premise that if a nut/fitting is stuck, just crank the crap out of it until it's round, then sell the car. I do not want to be that guy. The support I have received from this site has offered varying approaches to tasks I have taken on such as the brake light issue, the brakes themselves, Holley issues, Engine compression and leak down and now this. There is no substitute for experience and I recognize that experiences vary therefor the advice will vary. It's all good from my prospective. I will not get back to this until Tuesday and will report to you all my results. Again...thanks.
There was a thread on here a while back where some fella was trying to remove a munged up block drain plug by drilling it out.....he missed and went through the block, hit a water jacket and trashed his engine....
Some simple things can go south quickly...
For fuel/brake fittings you want line wrenches - far too many box end wrench monkeys have caused needless line replacements...
There was a thread on here a while back where some fella was trying to remove a munged up block drain plug by drilling it out.....he missed and went through the block, hit a water jacket and trashed his engine....
Some simple things can go south quickly...
For fuel/brake fittings you want line wrenches - far too many box end wrench monkeys have caused needless line replacements...
An the SNAP-ON line wrenches are the best. Absolutely no slop. Bought them just for brake work, even though I have a full set of Craftsman line wrenches in the toolbox.
You can also take up a bit of slop using tan masking tape on the small inside faces of the line wrench. Put a small piece on 1 or 2 or whatever number internal faces to provide a better grip on the nut.
An the SNAP-ON line wrenches are the best. Absolutely no slop. Bought them just for brake work, even though I have a full set of Craftsman line wrenches in the toolbox.
You can also take up a bit of slop using tan masking tape on the small inside faces of the line wrench. Put a small piece on 1 or 2 or whatever number internal faces to provide a better grip on the nut.
Larry
Exactly. Craftsman line wrenches for decades have been just a teensy bit loose and can mess up a brake fitting, but Snap Ons fit perfectly. These are the only less-than-great Craftsman tools that I know of.
An the SNAP-ON line wrenches are the best. Absolutely no slop. Bought them just for brake work, even though I have a full set of Craftsman line wrenches in the toolbox.
You can also take up a bit of slop using tan masking tape on the small inside faces of the line wrench. Put a small piece on 1 or 2 or whatever number internal faces to provide a better grip on the nut.
Larry
Larry, you are correct. I have a set of 35-40 year old Snap On flare nut wrenches that still operate as intended (slop free) and leave fuel lines, brake lines, transmission lines, and steering lines unmarked and undamaged. I have a set of Snap On line style crow's feet, too. Great stuff that will not hurt fasteners or the integrity of the work. You sound like you know what you are doing with the crescent wrench....I do the same. But what usually happens with me is, I am trying to loosen a stuck fitting already bunged up by an AMATEUR using an adjustable wrench. You and I don't do the damage, but are often faced with dealing with it.....
06-21-2018, 06:04 AM
Transmission and Diff fluids
