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Having just changed my oil again, I added 5 qts + 11oz of zinc additive. I am just over the top line (full) on the dipstick...I have the SHP pan, the one that the sump goes up to about the 3rd bolt hole on each side from the front of the engine.
My questions are...is there any difference in the length of the dipstick tube that goes in the block, and if not what dipstick should I have? Mine is a raw metal one, painted black, not the chrome one...is there a difference in markings/length?
You have a 5 quart pan used from 63-65 on solid lifter engines and in 70-71 on LT-1 cars. With a original canister filter that held a quart it was a six quart system It looks to be a 350 engine block so I would order the correct stick from Paragon for a 70 LT-1 car
You have a 5 quart pan used from 63-65 on solid lifter engines and in 70-71 on LT-1 cars. With a original canister filter that held a quart it was a six quart system It looks to be a 350 engine block so I would order the correct stick from Paragon for a 70 LT-1 car
Thanks for the insight..I neglected to say almost 1 qt of those 5 went into the new spin on oil filter, (block has an adapter for spin on filter) so only a little over 4qts + the 11oz of zinc are whats showing on the dipstick being a little over full. That is whats raising my concern about dipsticks/tubes. Seems I should be able to add almost another qt. to be at the full mark?
I looked again and it is a 327 block, casting 3892657..K-7 date so 68 model year. this car was orginally a 365hp car, so I guess they kept the pan, but I just wondered about the dipstick length or markings on them?
to my knowledge there is nothing on any dip stick to distinguish what it is. why do you have to add that other stuff. if you buy the correct oil you wont need it.
to my knowledge there is nothing on any dip stick to distinguish what it is. why do you have to add that other stuff. if you buy the correct oil you wont need it.
David, you're dealing with a common problem faced when we're dealing with a non-original engine missing some of its original parts. The real solution is to start with a new dipstick tube, longer than needed and trim it to length. Since you already know where FULL is on your dipstick, you need a tube just that much longer (than your current one) and trim it to the correct length.
..................or next time you change oil, drain and refill with six quarts. Let the oil drain down and then pull the stick. Run a file across the stick where the top oil level shows on the stick.
..................or next time you change oil, drain and refill with six quarts. Let the oil drain down and then pull the stick. Run a file across the stick where the top oil level shows on the stick.
Thats what I did years ago. Great minds think alike, I guess. It's easy, accurate and inexpensive.
Doug
I also did the same thing with the motor shy 1 quart. I now have two lines, Full, and Quart low. I briefly ran teh motor to get teh oil in the filter, then shut it off and let teh oil drain down for several hours for the quart low, then added the final quart for Full.
Doug
to my knowledge there is nothing on any dip stick to distinguish what it is. why do you have to add that other stuff. if you buy the correct oil you wont need it.
"Why do you have to add that other stuff??? . if you buy the correct oil you wont need it." That Zinc works really great! I start taking it when I feel a "Cold" coming on. Chicken Soup also helps.
"Why do you have to add that other stuff??? . if you buy the correct oil you wont need it." That Zinc works really great! I start taking it when I feel a "Cold" coming on. Chicken Soup also helps.
to my knowledge there is nothing on any dip stick to distinguish what it is. why do you have to add that other stuff. if you buy the correct oil you wont need it.
opinions on oil are all over the place. I like Valvoline and Lucas products, and the the zinc is just an extra couple bucks of insurance each oil change..my cam has shown virtually no measurable wear in 14 years using my formula so I'll stick with it.
Originally Posted by GUSTO14
David, you're dealing with a common problem faced when we're dealing with a non-original engine missing some of its original parts. The real solution is to start with a new dipstick tube, longer than needed and trim it to length. Since you already know where FULL is on your dipstick, you need a tube just that much longer (than your current one) and trim it to the correct length.
Paint and install, and you should be good to go.
Good luck... GUSTO
this is one of the questions I have, are there different length tubes?
Originally Posted by MikeM
..................or next time you change oil, drain and refill with six quarts. Let the oil drain down and then pull the stick. Run a file across the stick where the top oil level shows on the stick.
Originally Posted by AZDoug
Thats what I did years ago. Great minds think alike, I guess. It's easy, accurate and inexpensive.
Doug
that is probably the easiest way to get immediate results for now!
paragon list two different dip sticks for the 63-65 one vs the 70 LT-I car
The SHP stick has a chrome handle.
ZIP also has the correct 63' stick (although I prefer the later stick for better retention in the tube end).
Identifying the length of the tube is an unanswered mystery, one that should have an answer. Is there a Chevrolet blueprint specification or GM drawing with this information?
The tube length is important because, regardless of pan, the correct oil fill depth is just below the crankshaft counterweights so that physical contact does not foam the oil on start up. If the tube is correct, and the dipstick is correct, the fill level is correct. You can use a short filter or long filter or the canister filter, or a remote oil cooler & filter with a check valve, and any pan, but that correct tube length and correct dipstick fill line length remains the same.
The LT-1 stick should be longer, with a lower fill line to set the oil level below the longer 350 crank throws. A 400/383 stick would have an even lower fill line.
During operation the oil pumped into the engine lowers the oil level to the windage tray and pan baffle height. Each engine is different, but during and immediately after sustained hot operation the oil level should be about a quart low if the dipstick and tube are correct.
great explanation...indeed the dipstick tube has a major effect on the correct placement of the dipstick depth in the pan...this is my biggest dilema...I bought some dipstick tubes a few years ago, seems they came 4 to a pack. I just started the engine after the oil change with 5 qts added w/ the filter in place. I added another mark to the stick, then added one more qt, waited 10 min and made the "full" mark on the stick.
I don't believe the full oil level in a SBC, any CI size, comes close to the crankshaft with the engine off. I've never measured it, just don't think that's the way it is.
The size of the filter would definitely affect/change the full level as viewed on the dipstick once that filter was full.
..................or next time you change oil, drain and refill with six quarts. Let the oil drain down and then pull the stick. Run a file across the stick where the top oil level shows on the stick.
THIS is EXACTLY what I did too...... almost 30 years ago to my '66. I've also done this on every vehicle I have ever bought (new and used) just to make sure the dip stick didn't get swapped somehow. "Trust but verify" - Ronald Reagan.
I also did the same thing with the motor shy 1 quart. I now have two lines, Full, and Quart low. I briefly ran teh motor to get teh oil in the filter, then shut it off and let teh oil drain down for several hours for the quart low, then added the final quart for Full.
Doug
Wow...., I didn't think of marking for a quart low. Great idea Doug.
"Why do you have to add that other stuff??? . if you buy the correct oil you wont need it." That Zinc works really great! I start taking it when I feel a "Cold" coming on. Chicken Soup also helps.
Cold-Eeze is the best. It really does work It's not just a snake oil (snake lozenge)....
06-24-2018, 05:17 AM
Oil dipsticks and block tubes
