Railroadman

I'm getting way ahead of myself, but I'll ask now anyway. When the time comes to put the '64 on the road, I'd like the short-throw setup on the shifter. Can the original levers be drilled to create that result, or it it better (or necessary) to buy newer levers? Is there a template or diagram of where to drill?

MikeM

I would imagine those shift levers are very hard steel.

Railroadman

Had not thought of that, but it makes sense.

65GGvert

Zip has them for 12.99 ea, I'm sure others do too.

https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-68-4...r-1st-2nd.html

https://www.zip-corvette.com/64-68-4...r-3rd-4th.html

Railroadman

I guess for that price how can I say no? Thanks!

garth64

I think the original levers have two sets of holes for two different throws.

68hemi

That is correct.

pop23235

Railroadman

Later years had the extra holes. Earlier C-2's did not.

JohnZ

Those levers are the hardest steel I've ever worked with - if you plan on drilling them, hope you have LOTS of cobalt/titanium drill bits. Hint: The drill bits will cost at least twice the price of buying the levers ready-made.

Railroadman

Nope - aftermarket for me, for sure!

SoCalErv

So is it just change the brackets and reconnect the adjustment rods to the lower holes. Or is there a science in adjusting the rods to make it shift correctly?

Also how much is the throw reduced?

67's

65GGvert

Put it in neutral, remove the rods and levers, put the new levers on, adjust the rods to fit the other holes without moving the levers. It should be right. If not, you can always put the adjustment tool into the slots and touch it up. It should be right when you hook it back up as long as the levers stay in the neutral position.

2tired

Judging by the drawing on the Zip site, I would guess the length of the throw is reduced by nearly 50%.

Rusler John

MikeM

What would have been the result if you had replaced your worn out, sloppy, rattling shifter with a brand new original? Just curious.

AZDoug

Soild carbide, straight flute drill will handle anything, you only need one drill bit per hole size, BUT you need to make sure whatever you are drilling is held very securely, as the carbide drills are brittle,and will break if you let your work piece jump around, at least in smaller size drill bits.

I used carbide drills and carbide taps to reassemble a demilled Browning 1919 BMG using button head socket cap screws, rather than use rivets like original. The side plate on the BMG are EXTREMELY hard steel and laugh at cobalt drill bits. Yes, i have the proper license to build machine guns.

Doug

Rusler John

Railroadman

I recall back when I had my '67 I changed it to the short throw. Can't say just how much it changed the movement but I recall liking the feeling. John used the word "crisp" for his Hurst, and that's how I remember the stock shifter when I did this. Of course at the time it was a 2-year old car.so you would HOPE things were still tight.

As for the rattly '63 John, IIRC the '63's had the shifter mounted on the tranny, but later years were mounted to the frame and were less prove to vibration. Someone please correct me if I have that wrong.