When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I found the prior owner was off a bit with the clocking of the wires on the distributor cap and two were out of order. They are now in the correct order, but the vacuum advance bumps the coil. So I need two go back a tooth when I pull the distributor to set the timing. Which way do I back off a tooth? CW or CCW?
This is a 365/327. Points set and lifters set. With vacuum line disconnected, I go 4 marks for 8*, Right?
Last edited by Redbird; 07-08-2018 at 11:24 AM.
Reason: addition
Pull the distributor and check to make sure the indexing dimple on the gear is aligned with the rotor tab. It only goes on 2 ways so you have a 50/50 chance of indexing incorrectly if you are not aware of the dimple. If not indexed corrrectly you run into the problem you’re having.
Actually, when I put the high rise manifold on, I ran into this problem. Original manifolds are dimpled for the vacuum unit.
What I did is very typical for this, and what you want to do here is move the distributor half the distance. To do this you need to knock out the drift pin and turn the worm gear 180 degrees then reinstall it.
Wow, you guys are making this a lot more difficult than it needs to be.
if you can’t achieve your desired base timing because the vacuum can hits the manifold or coil, observe which way you need to gain additional clearance and set the engine at TDC. If it is hitting the coil (you are trying to retard the base timing), carefully remove the distributor, slightly turn the rotor ccw and reinstall. If it is hitting the manifold (you are trying to advance the base timing), carefully remove the distributor, slightly turn the rotor cw and reinstall. Notice that when you remove and reinstall the distributor, the rotor moves as the distributor gear engages/disengages from the cam gear. You want to ensure you turn it just enough to not renegade in the same place. It may help you to make the current rotor placement on the distributor body so you can observe you actually moved it slightly when you reinstall. One other tip. Pull the distributor out just enough to disengage the gear and make the change. You only have to pull it out about 1/3 of the way. Good luck!
Try and relocate the coil. My '74 has the coil on the other side of the distributor. The problem on that side is my tach cable interference but I don't see a tach cable on your motor/distributor. If you try a search you will read about the distributor gear 180 degrees out.
Okay. I got the point dwell at 30* and timing mark set at 8*. Now it appears to be getting too much gas. I don't have a pressure tester, bot when I opened the site holes a little gas came out of both. Here are a couple of pics of the carb. I am not sure of the model or do not know where to look for the numbers. I see Holley on the front bowl. When I started to loosen the float adjustment set screw on top, gas came out of both. I only ran the engine for a few minutes while adjusting the timing.
Wow, you guys are making this a lot more difficult than it needs to be.
I told you in another thread, there is only ONE right way to install a distributor in a C 2 Corvette. I see you still are a non believer.
I'll stick with my opinion here until I get my question answered in my 1-2 post. The coil mount is only one bolt with a keyed tab into the intake and it will easily swing back out of the way to pick up extra degrees of timing.
Okay. I got the point dwell at 30* and timing mark set at 8*. Now it appears to be getting too much gas. I don't have a pressure tester, bot when I opened the site holes a little gas came out of both. Here are a couple of pics of the carb. I am not sure of the model or do not know where to look for the numbers. I see Holley on the front bowl. When I started to loosen the float adjustment set screw on top, gas came out of both. I only ran the engine for a few minutes while adjusting the timing.
The carb P/N is on the front air horn on the "list" line. 327-365 came with a R2818A. Initial timing should be set @ 12*-14* BTC and total out @ 2300 RPM @ 36*-38*.
That carb looks like a Holley 1850. Single feed, side hung bowl with crossover tubes (fills the second fuel bowl), vacuum secondary 600cfm. The correct float adjustment is with the car idling and sitting on a level surface, remove one bowl plug and you should see a tiny dribble of fuel if the float level is correct.
Mike, sorry but there’s always more than one way to skin a cat and this one doesn’t have a stock manifold or carb.
The blue circles are the float level adjusters and the and the red circles are the site plugs for each bowl. The green circle is the primary fuel mixture adjustment (one on each side of the primaries). On the adjusters, the large screw is the lock and the nut is the adjuster. You want to use a wrench and screw driver together when ever you adjust the float levels.
Mike, sorry but there’s always more than one way to skin a cat and this one doesn’t have a stock manifold or carb.
If you're driving a '57 Bel Air you can plug that thing in there any way you want and it'll run and time.
In a C 2 Corvette, there is only one way to install the ignition timing system. the right way if you want to time it correctly with all OEM components. I found this out in 1963 with a OEM cast iron manifold and OEM Carter four barrel, since confirmed by a cast of thousands on this forum.
You have to consider the coil, the intake and the alignment with the tachometer cable so no "skinning the cat".
Don't know why but sometimes with a repo cam the dist drive gear has to be rotated 180 degrees on the shaft to time. That puts the dimple on the gear not in line with the pointer.
That carb looks like a Holley 1850. Single feed, side hung bowl with crossover tubes (fills the second fuel bowl), vacuum secondary 600cfm. The correct float adjustment is with the car idling and sitting on a level surface, remove one bowl plug and you should see a tiny dribble of fuel if the float level is correct.
Mike, sorry but there’s always more than one way to skin a cat and this one doesn’t have a stock manifold or carb.
The engine shown in the pictures has it's stock intake and stock carburetor.
07-08-2018, 11:21 AM
Distributor off a tooth
