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I just did this last week, sorry I missed your thread until now.
The Daytona parts kit DOES NOT have the correct carb to manifold gasket for a 340 HP application, as you found out. Also, the Felpro parts catalog is incorrect for this application.
I took one look at the float valves in the Daytona kit, and had no faith in that design, so I re-used the pointed-tip valves that came out of the carb.
There are differing specs on the float drop among the spec sheet that Daytona supplies, the spec page in the 1963 shop manual, and the text of the 1963 shop manual. I set my float level at 7/32" with the gasket on the top plate, and it works perfectly since I reinstalled it.
Another problem with the Daytona kit is the check valve for the accelerator pump is garbage. It does not have an internal spring and the ball is excessively heavy, you will not get a good accelerator pump shot with that check valve under any but the most aggressive actuation of the pump. I experimented at length on the bench, and the pump will just push the fuel back into the float cavity.
Yes! I actually wasn't sure what the hell that thing was. The check valve for accelerator pump that comes with the kit doesn't have a way to hold the ball, so I tossed it aside and put the old one back in. Ok. So 60% of the parts in this kit seem to be useless to me. That's not great, but I don't care about $50 if I can fix it. I am going to put the old need/seats back in and give it a go. Nothing else seems to be an issue that I can see...for now.
Last edited by mferreira2; 07-10-2018 at 06:17 PM.
Made some headway. I took out the Daytona seats and put in the original....that completely stopped the flooding...so either it was the cause or the floats have to be in another position. The engine turned over and eventually ran for about 15 seconds...then died. It almost seemed like it was blowing the leftover gas out of the intake. After it died it is doing the same thing...seems like it is starving.... then puffs up through the carb.
It almost seems like the timing is off, although before the rebuild it was dead on. I don't know if a shitty carb would have made me falsely feel the timing was good.
At least the flooding issue is resolved. Onto the next one.
So here was the troubleshooting:
1. The seats that Daytona sent caused the flooding...at least by me installing them. Maybe the gaps should be different....the bowls and floats hated them.
2. Installed old *** seats....no more leak....still backfiring and such.
3. Screwed with timing...it was ever so slightly off....and running VERY lean. The old needles were all the way in and it ran fine.
4. Started up...accelerator pump did its job...it shot in gas....the engine ran as long as gas was shooting in. Let it idle, it stalls. Hit accelerator...starts right up
5. Turned my attention to the idle needles. Backed them out one full turn. BOOM.
Car runs like a dream! At least at 10PM for 2 minutes.
I used what was recommended in the instructions -- always....
For WCFBs its 3 gaskets, IIRC its 3 for the AFB too but its been a while...
Daytoan ships and sells their kits globally and uses them in-house; there's nothing wrong with them... I've recommended them maybe a hundred times with no issues.
The gaskets have to be tight enough that you actually have to screw the needle seat into them -- all three...if you fiddle around enough that they are wallowed out then they can leak. And the seats have to be tightened down - good and snug.
I'm not pimping for Daytona - I've just never had a minutes issue with them - if the old valves/seats worked for you -- good enough.
At any rate....sounds like you're on the mend now...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 07-11-2018 at 05:47 AM.
So here was the troubleshooting:
1. The seats that Daytona sent caused the flooding...at least by me installing them. Maybe the gaps should be different....the bowls and floats hated them.
2. Installed old *** seats....no more leak....still backfiring and such.
3. Screwed with timing...it was ever so slightly off....and running VERY lean. The old needles were all the way in and it ran fine.
4. Started up...accelerator pump did its job...it shot in gas....the engine ran as long as gas was shooting in. Let it idle, it stalls. Hit accelerator...starts right up
5. Turned my attention to the idle needles. Backed them out one full turn. BOOM.
Car runs like a dream! At least at 10PM for 2 minutes.
When you go at it today let the engine warm up good first then readjust the emulsion screws for highest idle rpm or highest vacuum, any time you change the idle speed you should quick check the emulsion screws. The idle A/F mixture is controlled by the idle jet, idle air bleed and the air passing around the throttle blades then the screws tweak this mixture for idle.
If you turn the carburetor over and look just below the primary throttle blade they are the small holes (one on each side) below the transfer slot.
When you go at it today let the engine warm up good first then readjust the emulsion screws for highest idle rpm or highest vacuum, any time you change the idle speed you should quick check the emulsion screws. The idle A/F mixture is controlled by the idle jet, idle air bleed and the air passing around the throttle blades then the screws tweak this mixture for idle.
If you turn the carburetor over and look just below the primary throttle blade they are the small holes (one on each side) below the transfer slot.
That is next on the list. I think Ron at Daytona didn't like my inquiry. I asked him if there were any known issues with the seats because I took their new ones out and put the old ones back in...and it works flawlessly. His response was he has shipping 100k's so there is no issue. Anyway, not griping, just would love to know what I did wrong to make them work incorrectly.
I've known Ron and Tim for mmmm.....12 years now ? Here is my AFB on their test mule engine at the rear of the shop where we were diagnosing a vacuum leak for an AFB I was working on. No charge and spent an hour with Tim that day. Not gonna get into it but I'm glad you got your carb working and learned some things along the way...
If you don't like their kits then Echlin (NAPA) makes a fine kit -- avoid the "white box", generic Chinesium offerings though. I recommend the "thumtack" needle valves that Daytona produces because it is more tolerant of float settings that are slightly off - a common issue with novice rebuilders.....
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; 07-12-2018 at 08:02 AM.
Yeah, I am more curious what I did wrong so I can not replicate that. I am sure their kit is solid, but the instructions weren't detailed enough for someone that does it the first time. It's a learning curve I bet.
I usually use Borg/Warner kits if they're available but when they're not, Echlin is second in line. The B/W kits for WCFB's were getting hard to find several years ago so when I found a source, I bought them out of their inventory.
I have two Echlin kits for a dual quad WCFB setup.....i should prob sell them on since my 61 is gone....
I'll dig em out of my spare parts bins and make sure they're still in good shape.....
I warn people off the generic white-box kits though....sometimes the gaskets are so poorly made that needed passages are covered or partially covered - bad news...
I am thankfu I bought cars that weren't worn out and what little needed attention, I got all my stuff rebuilt/refurbished years ago that needed it and no longer have to suffer the agony of off shore parts.
07-10-2018, 06:15 PM
I usually use Borg/Warner kits if they're available but when they're not, Echlin is second in line. The B/W kits for WCFB's were getting hard to find several years ago so when I found a source, I bought them out of their inventory.
