West Systems epoxy?
#21
Drifting
West is the best
I used West systems on all repairs and bonded the replacement front end with its SIX10 product.
The 67 will not likely see another stress crack! Tough stuff . My only issue ............. Make sure West systems cured resin is roughed up good ( 40 grit ), when applying polyester products over it ... Primer Filler etc. Will not stick well to the Shiny glaze!
The information below might be interesting to you ...
G
https://www.westsystem.com/instructi...nish-coatings/
.
The 67 will not likely see another stress crack! Tough stuff . My only issue ............. Make sure West systems cured resin is roughed up good ( 40 grit ), when applying polyester products over it ... Primer Filler etc. Will not stick well to the Shiny glaze!
The information below might be interesting to you ...
G
https://www.westsystem.com/instructi...nish-coatings/
.
Last edited by Stingxray; 07-14-2018 at 02:55 PM.
#22
Race Director
I have used West Systems for many years on R&D lab projects, cars and race boats. When epoxy cures it has a "blush" on the surface - similar to polyester resin with a wax in it. ( bonding vs lay-up resin vs finishing resin). This can act as a release agent.
It was always recommended to use Epoxy over Polyester for the best bonds. I have used epoxy resin with fillers as a "Bondo" substitute.
If the blush on epoxy resins is not totally removed after a full cure the bond will be weak. I agree that roughing up the surface will help. I also recommend a full wash and scrub before sanding as per West Systems instruction manuals.
I have parts that were made many years ago (15+) with West Systems and have no failures - proper prep is always the key.
The above video is the best instruction I have seen in a few years....
My thoughts - take your time and don't take short cuts and both resins will work very well.
It was always recommended to use Epoxy over Polyester for the best bonds. I have used epoxy resin with fillers as a "Bondo" substitute.
If the blush on epoxy resins is not totally removed after a full cure the bond will be weak. I agree that roughing up the surface will help. I also recommend a full wash and scrub before sanding as per West Systems instruction manuals.
I have parts that were made many years ago (15+) with West Systems and have no failures - proper prep is always the key.
The above video is the best instruction I have seen in a few years....
My thoughts - take your time and don't take short cuts and both resins will work very well.
Last edited by BLUE1972; 07-15-2018 at 10:06 AM. Reason: hate auto spell