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St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
Originally Posted by Factoid
DON’T use the wife’s kitchen stove unless you want a big fight and chemical tastes in your food for a month or so.
No, that's not an option!
Originally Posted by Vette5311
I forgot to mention. You don't need to bake it. Engine heat cures it.
Won't be firing up the motor till some time next year most likely. Trying to get various parts cleaned, painted, repaired, etc and set aside so once things fall into place, I can proceed with less delay.
Interesting enough, I went to Harbor Freight today to get more blast media. Got talking to a kid outside who has a Nissan 300ZX, as does my son. When he found out I had a blast cabinet, he wanted to know how much I'd charge to blast some parts for an old Jeep he has. I turned him down because I have so much on my plate right now, both Corvette wise and house and shop projects. But it appears the cabinet may be a source of pocket money if I feel like doing it.
Hi-Temp Cast Blast is the way to go. I've used it on at least a dozen cars with no complaints. I just let the heat from firing up the engine cure it. Here's a pic of my 65 BB after curing the exhaust. The manifolds on my 60, that I did 30+ years ago with Cast Blast, still look just like this.
Looks great!!!
Motor and trans are going back in our '66 L72, and I wanted to clean things up a bit. Will be using the POR15 on the exhaust manifolds, what input does anyone have on the steel French locks on the manifold bolts on the ends? I see vendors selling the steel ones, and also stainless steel. What have others used? Not trying to be 100% perfect, but trying to avoid more people telling me what is wrong with the car..... Also, for '66, what is the bellhousing supposed to be finished with for a '66 L72?
..what input does anyone have on the steel French locks on the manifold bolts on the ends? I see vendors selling the steel ones, and also stainless steel. What have others used? Not trying to be 100% perfect, but trying to avoid more people telling me what is wrong with the car..... Also, for '66, what is the bellhousing supposed to be finished with for a '66 L72?
Any input is appreciated!!!
French locks were plain steel. Bellhousing was installed prior to engine painting, so it got the same Chevy Orange paint as the engine; photo below shows several racks of BB engines on the receiving dock.
French locks were plain steel. Bellhousing was installed prior to engine painting, so it got the same Chevy Orange paint as the engine; photo below shows several racks of BB engines on the receiving dock.
This pic reminds me of the tour I took of the GM assembly plant where I live when I was about 16 years old. I was awed by the racks & racks of engines like this and thought, Why can’t they just give me one, they’d never miss it!
I’m not a fan of curing the exhaust manifolds on the engine. It is hard to control the heat and ensure consistency. Obviously, it can work but I like better control over the process.
That said, never break in a new or rebuilt engine with uncured manifolds installed. Running your engine at 2000 rpm for 20 minutes to break in the cam and lifters will definitely burn the coating right off the manifolds.
French locks were plain steel. Bellhousing was installed prior to engine painting, so it got the same Chevy Orange paint as the engine; photo below shows several racks of BB engines on the receiving dock.
JohnZ, thank you for the input. It is greatly appreciated!!!
Good point about irregular objects. And I love the tennis ball dirt blocker!
Would be nice if a fellow wanted to try and accomplish this without removing the exhaust manifolds. Rattle can could get a little dicey with overspray. I really like the look, but to remove manifolds just to spray on is a project that is at the bottom of my list.
Would be nice if a fellow wanted to try and accomplish this without removing the exhaust manifolds. Rattle can could get a little dicey with overspray. I really like the look, but to remove manifolds just to spray on is a project that is at the bottom of my list.
BH
You could always use a small brush. I just put the 1st coat on yesterday with a brush, and one could certainly do this on the car. May not get everywhere, but certainly could get where you can see.
I used por15 manifold gray on both my 60 and 65 with manifolds on the car. I used a brush to apply and ran the engine to cure. I also painted the master cylinder with it. It had a rusty looking surface before. I did it on the car also and did nothing to cure it. That was about a year ago. I also bead blasted and painted the valve covers with Alumablast on the 65. Here's a picture before I started and when I completed it.
Anyone have any experience applying any of these products to steel tubular headers? Pros and cons?
Spray works best, gentle curing required, heat up a bit and let cool, heat up some more and let cure, (engine running heat) and must be 100% clean, like sand blasting first. Does not work as well as cast iron but will last if done carefully. good luck.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
We're less than a year since the last post, it has lots of good info and pics here, and I started the thread - so I'll wake it up with one more question. I had back-burnered this part of the project but ready to hit it now.
I'm ordering the Seymour High temp cast blast on line. I decided not to get an old kitchen oven, takes up too much room for something I'd only use once in a blue moon, not to mention I'd need a 240 outlet for it. Still a ways from firing up the motor but would like to get these manifolds finished and installed.
What about using a heat gun to cure a painted manifold? Mine has a low and a high setting. While it might not be as uniform as baking in the oven, it certainly can get it warm enough. Perhaps using a metal box to contain some of the heat? I have an old restaurant freezer maybe 2' each dimension, if I can feed the heat in it might almost be the same as an oven.
Post #19
I let mine cure in the sun a couple days, then let sit around a couple weeks before firing up the engine.
Broke in the flat tappet cam which put a lot of heat into them.
Now 2 years later they still look like the day I did them.
St. Jude Donor '09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15-'16-'17-'18-‘19-'20-'21-'22-'23-'24
I'm looking at post #27, advising against curing manifolds by running the engine. Yet I see Eastwood's says "cures with engine heat" right on the can. For every opinion, there is an equal and opposite opinion! I guess if Eastwood makes the stuff, they should know how you can use it.
For some reason I'm leaning toward an aerosol, hopefully I can be neat enough not to get major runs.
We're less than a year since the last post, it has lots of good info and pics here, and I started the thread - so I'll wake it up with one more question. I had back-burnered this part of the project but ready to hit it now.
I'm ordering the Seymour High temp cast blast on line. I decided not to get an old kitchen oven, takes up too much room for something I'd only use once in a blue moon, not to mention I'd need a 240 outlet for it. Still a ways from firing up the motor but would like to get these manifolds finished and installed.
What about using a heat gun to cure a painted manifold? Mine has a low and a high setting. While it might not be as uniform as baking in the oven, it certainly can get it warm enough. Perhaps using a metal box to contain some of the heat? I have an old restaurant freezer maybe 2' each dimension, if I can feed the heat in it might almost be the same as an oven.
Thoughts?
See post #8 for my Seymour painted manifolds, cured outdoors in a BBQ grill.
I should add I'm a long way from firing the engine, have not even torn it down yet. Trying to get ahead of the game by doing the manifolds and setting them on a shelf. I guess finding some hot rod guy with a kitchen oven in the shop is the best option. Or maybe browse CL for one of my own but that seems like overkill for something I won't do very often.
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I looked for a powder coating guy near me and he agreed to bake my manifolds for me at no charge. His ovens are at 400deg. I coated them with the POR-15 hi-temp exhaust paint.
I have used VHT 1500 Degree cast blast on many sets of cast manifolds for years. The only prep needed is glass beading and wiping
with lacquer thinner. Simply bolt them on and they look great for years to come. I have used this on several race cars with the same
results.
07-31-2018, 09:23 PM
I guess if Eastwood makes the stuff, they should know how you can use it.
