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Air Bubble in 1963

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Old 08-08-2018, 08:24 PM
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ricoman
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Default Air Bubble in 1963

Not sure if this is right place to ask a tech question?? If not,will someone direct me to correct place.../
So,I've owned my 1963 for 40+ years,and just installed a 383 stroker and been having trouble with cooling system...gauge will go back and forth from 180-260-200-180-260 and then back down to normal...assuming an air bubble in system...I've taken hose off at manifold and filled block direct and it seemed to help,but now doing same thing after a couple rides.I've read all kinds of remedies,jacking car up and filling..etc..and now watched a video on Utube about using a "spill-free-funnel" but it seems that needs to go directly on radiator,which the 63 doesnt have a cap..its the recovery can...so one question,if I use the spill-free funnel way and it fills the can totally up to top and gets air bubbles out,would I then need to siphon half out since you dont want the can filled to top....OR..anyone have any suggestions....dont want to use car with temp. gauge going crazy like that and possible engine damage...and..YES...its a new gauge,so thats not the cause...HELP...we only get to use a few months a year in RAINY Wa. State....THANKS
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:27 PM
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remove radiator cap. start engine and wait for the t-state open and watch for bubbles to appear in the tank
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:30 PM
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THANKS...but what do I do after bubbles appear.....does that take care of it and just put cap back on...OMG..sounds so simple been going crazy for months.....
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:32 PM
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you do nothing and what for them to stop. then wait until cold to fill the tank to the correct level
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:38 PM
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WOW..thanks so much....I guess I tried all the hard ways first....sounds so simple....so one more stupid question...appx. how long would you say it should take for it to cycle thru all the bubbles...5-10 minutes?
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Old 08-08-2018, 08:46 PM
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I would think 5-10 minutes should be plenty.
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Old 08-08-2018, 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by Nowhere Man View Post
I would think 5-10 minutes should be plenty.
THANKS buddy....much appreciated....will give it a try this weekend.....and if it works,owe you a beer or 2 if ever out in WA.....!!
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Old 08-09-2018, 07:38 AM
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I don't get it -- 1/2 century of driving and working on everything from English Fords to Camaros to Triumphs and I've NEVER had an air bubble issue in a radiator...
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:01 AM
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Same here, doubt that’s your problem. The only time I ever had an air bubble was on a sloped driveway.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:02 AM
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I've had air bubbles in a cooling system and I have seen the temperature gauge to exactly as the OP described. All it took to fix the problem was to let the system cool, restart the engine and top off the cooling system.

If the OP's engine has been through 1 or 2 heat/cool cycles and there's still air in the system I'd strongly suspect a compression leak into the cooling system.

An easy way to test if air in the system is causing the problem is to let the engine idle with the fill cooling fill cap off. If the temperature gauge is reporting the temperatures posted here, the oflo tank should be geysering coolant out the open fill hole.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:05 AM
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I kind of doubt that's the issue either - but if it is, drilling 1/8 inch hole in the thermostat flange and parking the car nose up on a steep drive while idling and warming up should take care of any trapped air in the block.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:07 AM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink View Post
I don't get it -- 1/2 century of driving and working on everything from English Fords to Camaros to Triumphs and I've NEVER had an air bubble issue in a radiator...
I'm with you there, trucks, cars, inboards, outboards, everything. Always thought it a 'will of the wisp'.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:24 AM
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OP, make sure the expansion tank is connected to the return heater hose. The return hose is smaller diameter.
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Old 08-09-2018, 08:29 AM
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I’m with Frankie on this one and would like to see a picture of the engine compartment with the new crate engine installed. Potential issues could be the use of Teflon tape on the temp gauge sender, an aftermarket intake with no rear crossover coupled with an incorrectly installed expansion tank, etc.

OP, please post some pictures of your engine bay.

Last edited by Factoid; 08-09-2018 at 08:36 AM.
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Old 08-09-2018, 12:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Frankie the Fink View Post
I don't get it -- 1/2 century of driving and working on everything from English Fords to Camaros to Triumphs and I've NEVER had an air bubble issue in a radiator...
Hi Frankie...
Thanks....and I tend to agree...and almost driving this Vett for over 1/2 century and never having a problem I'm just trying to get to the bottom of it...and since I've tried everything else and thought of almost everything...my last hope was "maybe" it might be an air bubble...only because of the way the gauge works...its like when it zooms up to 260,an air bubble is blocking coolant...but then bubble moves..temp goes back down and then back up..and then..bingo...it might "burp"...and then it stays at 180....its the way the temp varies so much that makes me think its air bubble..I'd think if it was the gauge it wouldnt go back to the 180 and stay normal....and since car has never overheated,we have ruled out water pump (new),radiator (new),radiator cap (new),thermostat (new)...head gasket (new and car runs great)....Its like there is a little gremlin in there screwing with me..
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Old 08-09-2018, 12:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Factoid View Post
Iím with Frankie on this one and would like to see a picture of the engine compartment with the new crate engine installed. Potential issues could be the use of Teflon tape on the temp gauge sender, an aftermarket intake with no rear crossover coupled with an incorrectly installed expansion tank, etc.

OP, please post some pictures of your engine bay.
Hi Factoid,
Thanks.....I've attached some photos...I also thought maybe I installed some hoses wrong,but they look right when I compare to the 63 manual...what do you think?
Never heard of the Teflon Tape issue,but will check that out also.....
Regards,
George
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Old 08-09-2018, 01:02 PM
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You could also have a temperature sending unit/gauge wire grounding intermittently. The temperature gauge goes up with more resistance from the sender (or a short) so I don't think a bad ground on the sending uni (due to tape on the threads) would make the gauge show hot

Last edited by MikeM; 08-09-2018 at 01:04 PM.
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Old 08-09-2018, 01:35 PM
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Stealthy looking 383. How did you handle crankcase ventilation?
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Old 08-09-2018, 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by MikeM View Post
You could also have a temperature sending unit/gauge wire grounding intermittently. The temperature gauge goes up with more resistance from the sender (or a short) so I don't think a bad ground on the sending uni (due to tape on the threads) would make the gauge show hot
Hi Mike....Thanks...gonna check that this weekend along with a few other idea I've gotten....Great guys on the site...never expected so many relpies...THANKS TO ALL....and will post remedy if I ever get to the bottom of this....
George
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Old 08-09-2018, 01:44 PM
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Originally Posted by kingwoodvette View Post
Stealthy looking 383. How did you handle crankcase ventilation?
THANKS....it runs great,except for the damn temp problem...I did it up as the original,and the vent I assume is coming off the oil filler cap....not sure if thats how you would do it with a 383,but thats what all my research showed for original engine....Here is photo...
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