[C1] Opinions on Crate Engine Mfg's
#21
Pro
[QUOTE=Black_Magic;1597865740]I’m in the process of installing Blueprint Engines 383 stroker (430/450) in my ’66. Did a lots of researching and lots of good companies out there but they seem to be on top. They have built more than 200,000 engines. They dyno each engine and send results with shipments mine came out to be 448/483. I talked to other that were happy with them also. Warranty 30 months/50,000 miles
George
BTW…I installed crate GM ZZ4 with no problems in my ’65 10 years ago and it was manufactured in Mexico.
/QUOTE]
My ZZ4 with 15,000 miles recently failed so I am in the market for crate engine also. Installed 18 years ago so no warranty.
The current generation of GM crates have Vortec heads which could cause hood clearance issues because the Vortec manifolds sit up higher.
Blueprint sounds like a good alternative if I can get traditional heads
Randy
George
BTW…I installed crate GM ZZ4 with no problems in my ’65 10 years ago and it was manufactured in Mexico.
/QUOTE]
My ZZ4 with 15,000 miles recently failed so I am in the market for crate engine also. Installed 18 years ago so no warranty.
The current generation of GM crates have Vortec heads which could cause hood clearance issues because the Vortec manifolds sit up higher.
Blueprint sounds like a good alternative if I can get traditional heads
Randy
#22
Race Director
Member Since: Mar 2001
Location: Mustang OK
Posts: 13,852
Received 3,772 Likes
on
1,674 Posts
2023 C1 of the Year Finalist - Modified
2015 C1 of the Year Finalist
I realize that not everyone has the time, expertise, or space to build an engine. But for over 50yrs, I've always built all my own engines (as well as for other people), and I just CANNOT bring myself to take an (unknown) engine out of a box and install it in one of my cars.
I attempt to start with a good, rebuildable core, tear it down, clean it up with my power washer, inspect it (as best as I can). I load up the parts that will be machined and used again (such as block, crank, heads, etc), take it to the machine shop for thorough cleaning, inspection and determining what has to be done. Then I order all the replacement parts from aftermarket sources (such as pistons, rings, bearings, cam/lifters, gaskets, etc). Once the machining has been done, pistons installed on the rods, cam bearings and freeze plugs installed, I bring it home and paint and do final assembly. When it's finished, I know EXACTLY what's inside and what kind of clearances it has.
Again, I fully realize that not everyone can do their own engine building, but there is the satisfaction of building it as well as knowing what's inside.
All my sons (3) are car guys, but one has never touched an engine for rebuilding. He recently bought a decent factory air, 73 Vette with with a tired L48 and worn out Turbo 400. I recommended that for a replacement engine he round up a SB400. He did. EVERYTHING on the 400 was usable (but we went with longer 350 rods instead of 400 rods) . I SHOWED him how to do everything (I installed the first set of rings/pistons/rods) and looked over his shoulder as he did the rest of the rebuild. The Turbo 400 was taken to a hi-school class mate of mine who has been building auto trannys for 55yrs. My son now has a GREAT running, cold air cond car that he can honestly tell his buddies that he built the engine.
We also converted it to 2 1/2in manifolds and a FULL 2 1/2in ex system with off road mufflers. I had a 69 Z28/LT1 intake/Holley/valve covers in the attic which I donated.
I attempt to start with a good, rebuildable core, tear it down, clean it up with my power washer, inspect it (as best as I can). I load up the parts that will be machined and used again (such as block, crank, heads, etc), take it to the machine shop for thorough cleaning, inspection and determining what has to be done. Then I order all the replacement parts from aftermarket sources (such as pistons, rings, bearings, cam/lifters, gaskets, etc). Once the machining has been done, pistons installed on the rods, cam bearings and freeze plugs installed, I bring it home and paint and do final assembly. When it's finished, I know EXACTLY what's inside and what kind of clearances it has.
Again, I fully realize that not everyone can do their own engine building, but there is the satisfaction of building it as well as knowing what's inside.
All my sons (3) are car guys, but one has never touched an engine for rebuilding. He recently bought a decent factory air, 73 Vette with with a tired L48 and worn out Turbo 400. I recommended that for a replacement engine he round up a SB400. He did. EVERYTHING on the 400 was usable (but we went with longer 350 rods instead of 400 rods) . I SHOWED him how to do everything (I installed the first set of rings/pistons/rods) and looked over his shoulder as he did the rest of the rebuild. The Turbo 400 was taken to a hi-school class mate of mine who has been building auto trannys for 55yrs. My son now has a GREAT running, cold air cond car that he can honestly tell his buddies that he built the engine.
We also converted it to 2 1/2in manifolds and a FULL 2 1/2in ex system with off road mufflers. I had a 69 Z28/LT1 intake/Holley/valve covers in the attic which I donated.
Last edited by DZAUTO; 08-27-2018 at 10:13 AM.
#23
Safety Car
I’m in the process of installing Blueprint Engines 383 stroker (430/450) in my ’66. Did a lots of researching and lots of good companies out there but they seem to be on top. They have built more than 200,000 engines. They dyno each engine and send results with shipments mine came out to be 448/483. I talked to other that were happy with them also. Warranty 30 months/50,000 miles
George
BTW…I installed crate GM ZZ4 with no problems in my ’65 10 years ago and it was manufactured in Mexico.
George
BTW…I installed crate GM ZZ4 with no problems in my ’65 10 years ago and it was manufactured in Mexico.
The current generation of GM crates have Vortec heads which could cause hood clearance issues because the Vortec manifolds sit up higher.
Blueprint sounds like a good alternative if I can get traditional heads
Randy
Will Accept Either An Early 12 Bolt Intake Manifold Or Late "Vortec" 8 Bolt Manifold
Straight Spark Plug Holes Use A .750" Reach Gasket Style Plug
Perimeter or Center Bolt Valve Cover Bolt Holes
Accessory Bolt Holes Machined On Ends Of Heads
I'm using a "461" intake originally on my '65 365hp and Valve covers from LT1 and 2 1/2 Ramhorn manifolds.
#24
Race Director
Just an addendum to my post above, I thought about rebuilding the NOM 350 that was in my '62 when I got it as I have always built my own engines. But the price of the Blueprint engine was very close to my cost to rebuild it. And Blueprint has a warranty, plus it's already been run on a dyno and checked for problems/leaks, meaning there is almost no chance I'll have to mess with it once I drop it in.
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
Member Since: Mar 2018
Location: Oklahoma
Posts: 1,606
Received 419 Likes
on
246 Posts
C1 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
Local shop says the only issues they've had with Blueprint is leaking gaskets. Pan gaskets and valve cover gaskets. Frustrating, buy not a deal breaker.
BH
BH
#30
Safety Car
You have a computer do your due diligence before making a purchase. Look at the shop research warranty complaints and check feedback other than provided by whoever you're buying from. i noticed a few things that would give me pause. Caveat emptor
#31
Pro
I am looking at Lingenfelter 550hp LS3. From my conversation with them, they buy a stock 430hp LS3 crate motor and put their heads and cam package on it. Having them rework gives me some confidence. They also offer a Dyno service. I know that this isn't for everyone, but their heads and cam combo makes the best overall performing LS3 that I've seen.
https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L130215306.html
https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L130215306.html
#32
Le Mans Master
$$$
I am looking at Lingenfelter 550hp LS3. From my conversation with them, they buy a stock 430hp LS3 crate motor and put their heads and cam package on it. Having them rework gives me some confidence. They also offer a Dyno service. I know that this isn't for everyone, but their heads and cam combo makes the best overall performing LS3 that I've seen.
https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L130215306.html
https://www.lingenfelter.com/product/L130215306.html
#33
Pro
A new LS3 crate motor is about $7k. This, from Lingenfelter, is about $10k. You get the added insurance of them going through it. As I said, it's not for everyone, but if you're looking for a LS3 crate motor, but want a little more usable power, it's a pretty good deal. More drivability than GM's LS3 525hp offering.
#34
Safety Car
Here is example of what you get along with BluePrint Engine.
My engine BP38313CT1 advertised as 430/450
Here is Dyno Sheets --- Serial # 330639 stamped on block.
This is not about GOOD or BAD numbers but you can see that engine was tested up to 6000 RPM.
The GMPP ZZ4 I install in a previous Vette had never been turned over.....Just a brand new engine
Both have about the same warranty
My engine BP38313CT1 advertised as 430/450
Here is Dyno Sheets --- Serial # 330639 stamped on block.
This is not about GOOD or BAD numbers but you can see that engine was tested up to 6000 RPM.
The GMPP ZZ4 I install in a previous Vette had never been turned over.....Just a brand new engine
Both have about the same warranty
#35
Race Director
Member Since: Apr 2015
Location: Fresno California
Posts: 17,505
Received 3,443 Likes
on
2,113 Posts
A new LS3 crate motor is about $7k. This, from Lingenfelter, is about $10k. You get the added insurance of them going through it. As I said, it's not for everyone, but if you're looking for a LS3 crate motor, but want a little more usable power, it's a pretty good deal. More drivability than GM's LS3 525hp offering.
#36
Pro
#37
Team Owner
Member Since: Oct 2000
Location: Washington Michigan
Posts: 38,899
Received 1,857 Likes
on
1,100 Posts
Jasper engine has not been mentioned. If you want a stock to mild performance engine they can do a great job and have a long reputation for quality. They are a production builder not a custom builder.
In the 90's they were building something like 1,500 engines a week. That number is reduced today because newer cars engines are so much more reliable than the old engines.
But the plant and people know what they are doing.
The following users liked this post:
cardo0 (09-02-2018)
#38
Drifting
I always wonder why Smedling engines never get any mentions, ALL new parts including the block, priced along with Blueprint....been around a long time...
#40
Need some advice. 61 Corvette ( ***9069) non matching numbers "average appearance", recreational driver has 1963 GM engine, appearance in engine bay essentially C1 stock.
Needs engine rebuild for spun rod bearing, rear oil seal leaking, some oil burning. I purchased a short block #3756519 with date code F 2 1 about 30 years ago. It was machined by someone I did not know and would need to be torn down and checked out. Has a high lift cam 0.06 pistons and I was told it had 11:1 compression. No other information was given to me. I want a dependable driver but would like to have the engine bay look like it should even without matching numbers. Current 327 runs good except for current engine problems. What would you do:
Pull 327 and rebuild or have 283 ( may cost more to rebuild then the 327 because of piston and cam replacement and possibly additional work) rebuilt (would have to do some research to find a reliable automotive machine shop) or buy a Blue Print engine and sell the other 2?
Budget preferably under $4000.
The 283 block pad is F01 07 DK ...no idea what it came out of.
Thanks
Needs engine rebuild for spun rod bearing, rear oil seal leaking, some oil burning. I purchased a short block #3756519 with date code F 2 1 about 30 years ago. It was machined by someone I did not know and would need to be torn down and checked out. Has a high lift cam 0.06 pistons and I was told it had 11:1 compression. No other information was given to me. I want a dependable driver but would like to have the engine bay look like it should even without matching numbers. Current 327 runs good except for current engine problems. What would you do:
Pull 327 and rebuild or have 283 ( may cost more to rebuild then the 327 because of piston and cam replacement and possibly additional work) rebuilt (would have to do some research to find a reliable automotive machine shop) or buy a Blue Print engine and sell the other 2?
Budget preferably under $4000.
The 283 block pad is F01 07 DK ...no idea what it came out of.
Thanks